Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
I’m going to see if I can’t mock that up. Hopefully it works out.
70 Hemi Superbird Restoration..................errr.....scratch that........
- Thread starter Hemirunner
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yours is a bit tighter , lol .
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Hemirunner
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Thanks Missel, that’s what I’m planning on.
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well your a great fab guy , i'm sure you already had it planned out in your head . at least that were mine start life , in the dream it always fits , even the first drawings of it always fit . it reality that get in the way , lol .
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
This combination tap and drill bit made tapping easy.
Using this on the right angle head allowed me to “feel” the tap.
You can see the end of the nozzle here. The oil hole looks to be .020 or so.
That hole is the sight line of the oil squirter.
There’s a 1/16” hex inside the nozzle for installation once the block is ready to assemble.
Just as long as you don't "feel" the tap go crunch!
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Don’t even think such things lol...
I’m using one bit for each hole, but I only have the one tap. Luckily it cuts very nicely. Cylinders 2,4,6,8 are done, the odd bank later this week. I still need lifters and then the block needs to have the cylinders honed and lifter bores honed. Then assembly can begin when the crank arrives.
You'd think alum would be really easy to tap, but it has a way of gumming up sometimes.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
They make abrasives from aluminum oxide so it’s like drilling and tapping a grinding wheel dulling everything as it goes in... now brass on the other hand, is so nice to cut.
70 Viper
Well-Known Member
We use liberal amounts of WD40 or similar product when machining ,drilling or cutting threads in aluminum . The other great product I found for using a cutoff disc on aluminum, was bee's wax. Just run the edge of the disc on it and it cuts like butter.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Same here. The bees wax is a good tip. I’ve used it on coated abrasive discs but have yet to try it on a cutoff. I bought a bandsaw instead.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Holy Fak.... this dry sump pump project is finally coming around. I’ve literally torn this pump apart 20 times. The cable clears the starter by the smallest of margins. I’ll probably put some sort of sleeving on there so it doesn’t ground out the starter somehow. I still need to hone out this rotor as it’s too tight on the shaft.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
I ordered a .626 reamer and reamed out the dry sump pump rotor. It fits perfectly on the shaft now and the pump rotates very smoothly instead of the jerky motion it had when I got it. With that project done, I decided to start the cam sync housing project for the Jeep cam sync. I got this far on the lathe.
Nice work.
Moparstyle
Well-Known Member
Ok im following your build to the end what a beast your car is going to be 
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
So..... I figured out that buying one of these from AR Engineering would have been much cheaper, lol. I don’t have much money invested in this but the hours are off the chart.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Block is now at the machine shop for honing for piston to wall clearance. We’re going with .0050” P2W with the Diamond Hard Anodized coating. We ordered Steel Roller on DLC coated shaft lifters and will hone the lifter bushings for clearance. They’re pin fitting the pistons and rods at .0015 and line honing to remove any burs I may have created when I installed the piston oilers. Crankshaft is coming from Crower sized and balanced. Everything should be ready for assembly in a few weeks.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
I usually keep a spreadsheet but decided I’m much better off not knowing lol.
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