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6 Pack idleing issues

rcrawf1012

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Apr 10, 2018
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Location
annville, pa
Looking for some direction on my 6 pack carburetors. Just installed motor after sitting for 6 months. Came out of an RR and was running fine when pulled. I cannot get the motor to idle under 2100 RPM, it just stalls out. Checked fuel level in bowl and its is fine. Am I looking at a center carb rebuild here due to sitting time? Any advice or direction would be appreciated.
 
Check your vacuum lines, sounds like you might have one wrong or missing.
 
Yeah I would say check for leaks around gaskets. We used to use carb cleaner or starting fluid backin the day and spray a little on the suspected gasket or area and the engine would increase rpm when you found a leak.
 
Agree with the other 2 posts, something isn't right here. propane is a good way to check for a vacuum leak
 
Just a question on this possible vacuum leak, if I draw on the vacuum line that is T’d to the outboard carbs should I draw air or just the vacuum diaphragms that operate those carbs?
 
Just a question on this possible vacuum leak, if I draw on the vacuum line that is T’d to the outboard carbs should I draw air or just the vacuum diaphragms that operate those carbs?
if you suck on the line coming from the center carb, it should activate the diaphrams on the 2 outboards. The vacuum signal from the center carb is what brings in the outboards
 
if you suck on the line coming from the center carb, it should activate the diaphrams on the 2 outboards. The vacuum signal from the center carb is what brings in the outboards
Bill, diaphragms barely move and I am sucking mostly air from somewhere? Little or no resistance
 
could be dirt/gum in the idle jets in the center carb. idle air bleeds being plugged could have the same effect.
 
Bill, diaphragms barely move and I am sucking mostly air from somewhere? Little or no resistance
Possible broken diaphams, easy enough to find out, just open them up. You can do it with them on the carbs as well but this shouldn't account for an idle that high, the correct port on the center carb that activates the outboards is venturi vacuum so it should be virtually non existant at idle
 
could be dirt/gum in the idle jets in the center carb. idle air bleeds being plugged could have the same effect.
good point, if this is an older carb there's no doubt they would benefit from a rebuild. Chicago carburetor has the kits for the center and outboards. You should eliminate the vacuum leak first though, make sure the pcv is working and if so then plug all the ports on the center carb except the pcv and see if you can get it to idle, if no change then do the propane test. If you can't find a leak anywhere then a rebuild is in order
 
You guys were dead on! Capped all vacuum ports and engine now idles fine. Please look at photos and let me know if vacuum connections are correct if you would. On the larger hose looped from bottom of carburetor to top I have seen a numb Uber of different ways. Also I have my PCV hooked up to the air cleaner?
 
You guys were dead on! Capped all vacuum ports and engine now idles fine. Please look at photos and let me know if vacuum connections are correct if you would. On the larger hose looped from bottom of carburetor to top I have seen a numb Uber of different ways. Also I have my PCV hooked up to the air cleaner?

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You guys were dead on! Capped all vacuum ports and engine now idles fine. Please look at photos and let me know if vacuum connections are correct if you would. On the larger hose looped from bottom of carburetor to top I have seen a numb Uber of different ways. Also I have my PCV hooked up to the air cleaner?

No pictures to look at bro
 
ok, first off why is your pcv hooked to the air cleaner? In order to work, it needs vacuum and should be hooked to the large port off the throttle base
the large hose on the top is just a vent, leave it open
the port on the bottom of the center carb is full manifold vacuum and goes to the choke pulloff dashpot
the ONLY port coming from the metering block is for spark advance so it goes to the distributor (assuming you use vac advance and I hook mine to manifold vacuum, but 1 discussion at a time) LOL
that leaves only one open port, it is tight behind the choke pulloff dashpot and this is the one that splits and operates the diaphrams on the 2 outboards
 
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Based on what I can tell from the pictures, it looks like you are plumbed right except for the pcv and vent being connected. You need to fix that
 
ok, first off why is your pcv hooked to the air cleaner? In order to work, it needs vacuum and should be hooked to the large port off the throttle base
the large hose on the top is just a vent, leave it open
the port on the bottom of the center carb is full manifold vacuum and goes to the choke pulloff dashpot
the ONLY port coming from the metering block is for spark advance so it goes to the distributor (assuming you use vac advance and I hook mine to manifold vacuum, but 1 discussion at a time) LOL
that leaves only one open port, it is tight behind the choke pulloff dashpot and this is the one that splits and operates the diaphrams on the 2 outboards
Ok, great info and I have all those correct now. T I discovered the advance port on the center carb was loose and could be pulled out. I sealed it but now that it will idle I cannot seem to advance the timing no matter how far I rotate the distributor. I can retardation it to the point of stalling but cannot advance it to TDC? Car fires on first turnover? I can advance my timing light and when I advance it to 90 timing mark hit TDC?
 
Ok, great info and I have all those correct now. T I discovered the advance port on the center carb was loose and could be pulled out. I sealed it but now that it will idle I cannot seem to advance the timing no matter how far I rotate the distributor. I can retardation it to the point of stalling but cannot advance it to TDC? Car fires on first turnover? I can advance my timing light and when I advance it to 90 timing mark hit TDC?
Now we have another problem, no way you should be running 90 btdc at idle or for that matter any rpm. You should be somewhere near 34-36 all in. If you are actually at 90 btdc and you run her hard, you're fixing to blow a hole in a piston!
 
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