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FiTech Go EFI 8 - 1200 HP, #30012 on Charger project

Update: Connected up the wiring and started the car up. I still have to clean-up the wiring a bit, wrap it or put in a loom.
Took a short drive and pretty happy with the FiTech so far. I set the ignition timing tables for 30 degrees so I could double check the distributor install position with timing light and adjust the pickup inductive delay (VR Advance 4000 in the FiTech menu). I must have got the base timing really close, I did not have to adjust the distributor. It was reading right at 30-degrees until I really brought the RPMs up and the timing light showed the timing advancing a few degrees above 4,000 RPM. Changed that VR Advance 4000 from 17.5 to 15, and now it was holding a steady 30-degrees through the entire RPM range. I then programmed the ignition curve back in near what the stock settings were.
Right now, I have the WOT (95 kpa map) timing settings pretty conservative with 30 degrees @ 3,000 RPM, and 32 degrees @ 6,000 RPM.

I still need to work on the idle settings. I found that when adjusting the idle screw to get the IAC within the range the instructions mention, you have to cycle power after making the adjustment so the TPS can re-set its zero position.

If weather is good, going to put some miles on the car tomorrow.
 
Update: Connected up the wiring and started the car up. I still have to clean-up the wiring a bit, wrap it or put in a loom.
Took a short drive and pretty happy with the FiTech so far. I set the ignition timing tables for 30 degrees so I could double check the distributor install position with timing light and adjust the pickup inductive delay (VR Advance 4000 in the FiTech menu). I must have got the base timing really close, I did not have to adjust the distributor. It was reading right at 30-degrees until I really brought the RPMs up and the timing light showed the timing advancing a few degrees above 4,000 RPM. Changed that VR Advance 4000 from 17.5 to 15, and now it was holding a steady 30-degrees through the entire RPM range. I then programmed the ignition curve back in near what the stock settings were.
Right now, I have the WOT (95 kpa map) timing settings pretty conservative with 30 degrees @ 3,000 RPM, and 32 degrees @ 6,000 RPM.

I still need to work on the idle settings. I found that when adjusting the idle screw to get the IAC within the range the instructions mention, you have to cycle power after making the adjustment so the TPS can re-set its zero position.

If weather is good, going to put some miles on the car tomorrow.
I think fitech says just about every change you have to cycle the power for it to save?
 
Took the car out today, only about 25-30 miles, but it ran pretty good, and did get better the more I drove it.
Only issue of concern was the first time I took the engine above 6,000 RPM I had a backfire? Not sure if it was from going lean?
Ran fine afterwards, and never did it again. I put the car in first gear and slowly brought the RPM up letting the RPM stabilize every 1,000 RPM, and up to 6,500 RPM. My friend thought I was crazy letting it sit at 6,500 RPM for many seconds (maybe 15 seconds.)
I also got the idle set a bit better. I leaned the Idle air fuel just a touch and added 2 degrees idle ignition timing.
I also change the idle loop up/down to 30 each, not really sure how much that helped. On the idle down, a few times it seemed to take a bit longer to return to idle speed, so might need to make adjustments there. When I first started driving it, it seemed like it would go a bit lean on decel, so when getting back on the throttle, it seemed lean, but that seemed to go away as I put miles on the car. Is this something that self learns also?
Anyhow, so far I am pretty happy with the unit.
Now I need to look up how to save different tunes.
Right now I am just driving on 91 octane pump gas ans only using 30 degrees ignition advance.
I'm not sure I want to run more advance on pump gas since the engine is 12.4:1 compression.
 
It’ll back fire on ya until it learns. My buddy’s Holley Terminator did the same when he first drove his Duster. He was in panic mode going down the freeway, limped to my house and I told him what was going on. Holley Tech confirmed my suspicion and the more he drove it, the better it got. Also did the same on mine, but it’s much better now and I gave a custom tune on it that my buddy built from scratch.....still doing some minor tweaking to it.
 
I have a fitech dual quad on my 511 stroker with a tunnel ram. Not running in the car yet, but it ran well on the dyno with timing control. Ran too rich which probably cut down on power a little bit, but I believe that was because the O2 sensor was too close to the exhaust exit. Looking forward to running it in the car soon.

View attachment 580103
Let me know how that works out thinking of going to a tunnel ram on mine early winter. Along with other goodies.
 
Let me know how that works out thinking of going to a tunnel ram on mine early winter. Along with other goodies.


I ordered the 1200 hp dual quad FiTech fuel injection system ,and TTI headers with the 02 bungs in the collectors. I am hoping that it is a good location for the 02 sensors so it will get accurate readings and it will stay in tune. I also want to run electric cutouts so now after reading this, I am wondering if they will affect the tune when they are open. If so I am hoping that the controller will adjust the mixture as needed.
 
^ place the cutouts 18" or so after the 02 sensors if you are concerned. I could only see this being a potential problem at idle, if the camshaft had a significant amount of overlap.
 
I ordered the 1200 hp dual quad FiTech fuel injection system ,and TTI headers with the 02 bungs in the collectors. I am hoping that it is a good location for the 02 sensors so it will get accurate readings and it will stay in tune. I also want to run electric cutouts so now after reading this, I am wondering if they will affect the tune when they are open. If so I am hoping that the controller will adjust the mixture as needed.
I have manual cut outs. It will effect your readings at idle. As said, 18” will help.
 
Do you see a difference anywhere but @ idle?
Idle is it. Once you hit the throttle, it starts to read normal. Is there any type of open loop setting for idle on Fitech so it doesn’t use the widebands?
 
That's what I was thinking, how far away are your exhaust cutouts from the 02?
Mine are only 12” or so. I’m running carbs but use the Innovate dual widebands so it’s not an issue for me. It will be for the efi guys.
 


It’s not as bad in this video as I’m in gear, with the left foot on the brake, right foot on throttle creaping into the beams then setting the trans brake. At idle in park, it goes to 26/28:1.
 
I ordered the 1200 hp dual quad FiTech fuel injection system ,and TTI headers with the 02 bungs in the collectors. I am hoping that it is a good location for the 02 sensors so it will get accurate readings and it will stay in tune. I also want to run electric cutouts so now after reading this, I am wondering if they will affect the tune when they are open. If so I am hoping that the controller will adjust the mixture as needed.
I wouldn't see a problem running the turn outs as long it is after them.
 
I hope to get back working on the car tomorrow or the next day. Weather was bad this weekend, snowing and cold. Nice day today, but had other things planned. Car ran fine when warmed up, may try some adjustments for the cold start.
 
My FiTech Dual Quad system arrived today! Pics tomorrow!

That's cool. Have to let up know how the dual quad works? Does it use a single TPS sensor and computer with just another harness from the TBI with computer to drive the injectors of the other TBI unit? Picture looks like each unit has a pressure regulator and is plumbed with separate fuel supply and return connections.

No updates on my car. Dropped family off at airport, fixed the dryer for the wife, and finished my taxes. Actually getting some of my money back from uncle Sam this year.
 
FiTech dual quad 1200 hp pictures
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