• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Lower Control Arm Pivot Shaft Issues

Roadrunner40

Roadrunner40

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:34 PM
Joined
Feb 25, 2018
Messages
462
Reaction score
70
Location
Eastern Ohio
Ok so I am attempting to replace the LCA bushings on my 68 Satellite. I have done several of these in the past successfully never had this problem. I am using Moog bushings (rubber not poly). I removed arm removed sleeves from pivots pressed on new bushings to shoulder on pivot removed outer shell from old bushings cleaned using no grease and pressed in pivot and bushings supporting pivot the proper way
Then I go to put arm in k frame put on big locking but and flat washer go to tighten it starts on and then the pivot shaft spins freely inside of sleeve for shaft both sides
So I thought maybe just poor design on bushings went bought 2 more bushing (moog) and installed them again go to put in arms same thing shaft spins inside bushing?????
Has anyone had this happen? I have done at least 10 of these in the past with no problems the car only has 53k original miles and can’t see shafts being bad I even thought about just ordering poly kit from just suspension but really didn’t want to spend the extra right now. I do not believe it was designed to spin and that should be a press fit and not turn. Any help on this would be appreciated
 
They should not spin by hand BUT since that nut is a lock nut I imagine it has enough force to spin the shaft. No big deal. The shaft is tapered for a reason ... to seat into the K-member. Once its seated the friction will keep the shaft from spinning. So maybe tap the LCA towards the K to seat the shaft. An alternative would be to snug the shaft in with a regular nut then remove it and install the lock nut.
 
Ok thanks for response I am ok with getting the pivots tight in the k member but I can pull the LCA off by hand also I put photos on here after that spins I can remove the shaft by hand and put it back in by hand is this going to be ok for back and forth movement or will it eventually push back the torsion bar? Like I said I have no problems holding the pivot shaft with a pair of vice grips and getting it tight

75BEC656-075D-4F3A-A989-A5943AE9648D.jpeg 256C429D-F48E-44AE-AFB1-F7C749C8B337.jpeg ECABD3AC-972B-4240-9387-FA13E05B95E8.jpeg
 
If you can spin the shaft in the bushing, something is not correct. The bushing is pressed onto the shaft, then the shaft/bushing assy is pressed into the LCA. The only spinning when done is the torsion bar lever for adjustment.
 
69Bee said:
If you can spin the shaft in the bushing, something is not correct. The bushing is pressed onto the shaft, then the shaft/bushing assy is pressed into the LCA. The only spinning when done is the torsion bar lever for adjustment.
Click to expand...
Thanks for responding
Yes and that is the the order I always do them in did 2 sets that way same deal
No idea this is completely screwing my whole build no idea how to fix this hate to spend another $100 on new pins and don’t know if anyone even sells the stock shafts that aren’t for the poly bushings don’t know if I want to go poly to much negative on them
 
I had one lower shaft in my LCAs that would spin when I tried to remove them and had to resort to vice grips. I wrote it off as a worn shaft and replaced them with new ones from PST and re-installation was normal.
You may be dealing with something different - not sure.
 
Looked online for images, same have a step like yours some don't. I'd measure pivot shaft and call around, PST?
 
So there is a metal sleeve in the bushings, right??
 
I wasn't aware of any negative comments on Polyurethane bushings. I thought they were the hot set-up!
 
What's the moog number your buying? Jegs says k791. Rock auto the same.
 
Roadrunner40 said:
OI can remove the shaft by hand and put it back in by hand is this going to be ok for back and forth movement or will it eventually push back the torsion bar?
Click to expand...

The LCA shaft is locked in place in the K-frame by the taper and lock nut. Then you have the STRUT ROD that holds the LCA in place forward and aft. It CAN'T go anywhere but up and down like its supposed too.

I had one that was a little loose also, but I don't think I could remove it by hand. I'm using it as is.

Moog K791 was what I used also.
 
Roadrunner40 said:
Ok thanks for response I am ok with getting the pivots tight in the k member but I can pull the LCA off by hand also I put photos on here after that spins I can remove the shaft by hand and put it back in by hand is this going to be ok for back and forth movement or will it eventually push back the torsion bar? Like I said I have no problems holding the pivot shaft with a pair of vice grips and getting it tight

View attachment 596180 View attachment 596181 View attachment 596182
Click to expand...

Yep, that is not right at all. Maybe worn pivot shafts or oversized sleeves.
 
Issue is, he's going to have the rubber bushings metal sleeve turning on the shaft vs the rubber bushing twisting back and forth like it should. Why you only tighten the LCA shaft when the car is on it's wheels.
 
dadsbee said:
Issue is, he's going to have the rubber bushings metal sleeve turning on the shaft vs the rubber bushing twisting back and forth like it should. Why you only tighten the LCA shaft when the car is on it's wheels.
Click to expand...
I agree with you, but we don't drive these cars 100,000 miles in a couple years like we used too. If I put 1000 a year on each of my cars I've done good.
 
Roadrunner40 said:
Thanks for responding
Yes and that is the the order I always do them in did 2 sets that way same deal
No idea this is completely screwing my whole build no idea how to fix this hate to spend another $100 on new pins and don’t know if anyone even sells the stock shafts that aren’t for the poly bushings don’t know if I want to go poly to much negative on them
Click to expand...

These work with the metal sleeve like the factory shafts

https://p-s-t.com/series-220304-control-arm-pivot-shafts.html#!year=1971||make=DODGE||model=CHARGER
 
They supply parts in a box. Your FSM has the spec, but it appears PST doesn't harden their shafts so you're not going to get there. I forget the number I was heading for if the FSM, but I sure wasn't going to make it before the nut started turning easier and I stopped. I'll try to check my work log tomorrow..

..and remember, you only tighten that shaft nut with the car on it's suspension, not with the LCA hanging down free.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
74 RR Lower Control Arm Shaft dust boots
Replies
5
Views
585
Don Frelier
Don Frelier
Encswsm
Prothane Lower Control Arm Bushings
Replies
4
Views
945
Encswsm
Encswsm
71RRHI
greaseable pivot shafts
Replies
10
Views
1K
451Mopar
451Mopar
A12 Wanna Bee
Lower Control Arm Bushing Removal
2
Replies
26
Views
1K
1STMP
1STMP
Bighouse
Caster bushings
Replies
1
Views
788
RemCharger
RemCharger
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top