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What distributor with FiTech EFI?

Hijinx

Hijinx

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74 charger 440RB, pretty sure i'm going with the Go EFI 4 System Master Kit w/Fuel Command Center and i was wondering which distributor would be best for this?

According to the website this system has optional Timing control "...Ignition timing can be controlled and adjusted on the fly from your touch screen controller..."

Would this be more desirable or would a ready-to-run be better? anyone using this system have any suggestions or let me know what they are using and why?
 
Msd pro billet 2 wire with a 6al box if you don’t want it to control timing, ditch the box if you do. Ready to run not compatible with the efi as far as I know.
 
The Holley Sniper EFI is compatible with the MSD Ready to Run. But you have to lock out advance and use a adjustable rotor button.
 
Here is the way to do Fitech EFI. First put the sytem on, leave your timing alone. After the system is on and running good then swith out to Fitech timing. Baby steps. There is a lot to learn.
 
Problem is i do not have a distributor, or fuel pump, or wires, or anything else. So i am trying to figure out what i need to buy all at once.
 
Honestly, even Holley recommends a standard CD ignition system (like the MSD 6AL) rather than using the EFI system to provide spark.

FCC system, don’t even think about that; it’s been an absolute failure and shouldn’t even be on the market. Go with a standard forward/return line system with an in-tank or inline pump.
 
Hijinx said:
Problem is i do not have a distributor, or fuel pump, or wires, or anything else. So i am trying to figure out what i need to buy all at once.
Click to expand...

I would call Pace Performance. The are FiTech distributor. They also have everything you need plus extra tech support

I agree about the FCC. It sucks
 
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FiTech or Holley, I would figure out how to do an in Tank pump, 2 3/8's metal lines, and at least a Ready to run Dist.
 
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I use an MSD Pro-Billet distributor, an MSD6-2 box, MSD Blaster coil and locked out the timing to let the FiTech unit control the timing. I like the ability to add advance or retard on the handheld device on the fly. I had problems with the FCC (internal float level off) but eventually got it squared away. A number of the problems have to do with folks NOT FOLLOWING the directions. If you read the installation directions and then go back and read the tech questions from customers you'll see that the majority of units are not vented correctly. Can't do that with this unit... I highly recommend the FiTech unit as well as others, but you need to install it correctly and follow the manufacturer's instructions for set-up. Like carburetors, they are not a plug and play option...
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So far my Sniper EFI has been plug-and-play :usflag:

The initial setup takes care of the base-map. Just let the engine warm up to 160*F and it'll start to self-learn, simply take it for a drive, and within a few minutes it's idling in traffic fine and driving excellent. The only tuning was 5-minutes dedicated to cold starting, I actually reverted back to base settings on the handheld for now, and recently purchased the dedicated CAN-USB cable to tune that part of the map in greater detail. I'm mounting a 10" WIN OS tablet in the car and setting up the Holley EFI software to display a full digital gauge panel. This cable comes free with the Sniper EFI master kit.
 
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The Fuel Command Center (FCC) has had many reported issues. I don't know if anyone makes an EFI fuel tank for the '71-74 Chargers? An in-tank pump is more reliable, quieter, and easier to plumb than using one pump to full a surge tank to run the EFI pump. I would modify a stock/replacement tank for in-tank EFI pump. I would likely use the Holley Hydro mat as it would be more difficult to add a pump sump to the tank.
Holley and FiTech recommend the MSD magnetic pickup dist with adjustable rotor to adjust the rotor phasing.
I'm cheap and used a Lean Burn distributor. The lean burn phasing is pretty close, and runs fine. This is with my FiTech unit. Not sure about the Sniper unit?
You could also use a stock magnetic pickup dist, weld it to lock out the advance and re-drill the reluctor pin location to phase the rotor.
The Holley Sniper system has been getting good reviews as being easier to setup than the FiTech?
 
451Mopar said:
The Holley Sniper system has been getting good reviews as being easier to setup than the FiTech?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't say it's easier in terms of wiring, the Sniper EFI system may just have the edge in user-friendly installation manuals and tutorials. The quick-start guide is all that I used initially, but it also comes with a complete, detailed user manual. We have to remember that FiTech was the first to release affordable, TBI EFI systems. However, I don't see them being competitive with Holley at this point. Customer support horror stories have ruined FiTech's reputation IMHO.
 
Hey Guys, I helped many of you in the past, and I'm happily with BluePrint Engines Now (Site Sponsor). We have a complete ignition line with distributors that work just fine with the fitech or sniper.

here is a ready to run pro billet for an RB sold tons of these for non-timing control applications.
https://blueprintengines.com/collec...utor-mopar-bb-413-426-440-v8-engine-black-cap

or if you have to have timing control, simply swap one of these in.
https://blueprintengines.com/collections/misc/products/pro-series-distributor-magnetic-pickup


or if you don't ever want timing control...or are using their base unit w/o the feature. we have this budget offering.
https://blueprintengines.com/collec...butor-mopar-bb-413-426-440-v8-engine-blue-cap

BPP4403BKV2_1583x.jpg
 
The Holley systems seem to be more expensive or am i missing something? FiTech support? i asked them a bunch of questions last week, still waiting for a response. :(
 
Hijinx said:
The Holley systems seem to be more expensive or am i missing something? FiTech support? i asked them a bunch of questions last week, still waiting for a response. :(
Click to expand...
the sniper is the same as the comparable fitech. both have their advantages and disadvantages. If you're mulling a system let me know. i have both on the shelf at the moment. fitech does have a basic 400 horse unit with no timing that is slightly cheaper.

https://blueprintengines.com/collections/efi-kits
 
Hijinx said:
The Holley systems seem to be more expensive or am i missing something? FiTech support? i asked them a bunch of questions last week, still waiting for a response. :(
Click to expand...
if you have pre sales questions, and would consider buying from me, let me know and i'll be happy to answer questions.
 
Just went to move my Charger with the FiTech. I am really happy with the FiTech unit so far. It fired right up and ran fine in 30-degree weather. I wish it would stop snowing already!
The FiTech instructions are not very good. Not sure about support as I never had to call them. There is a Facebook page where users help each other.
The Holley Sniper and Super Sniper are priced the same as FiTech for units that have about the same features and power levels. The lower cost FiTech units don't have the ignition control option. I like that Holley has better instructions, I don't know if there support is better or worse? I like that the Super Sniper unit has a few options the FiTech does not have.
One difference might be if you want the ECU to directly control the ignition coil. The Sniper uses a "coil driver module" that does not come with the kit and adds $99 to the cost, where this is built into the FiTech. I am using a MSD6AL ignition box, and either unit can supply the RPM signal to the MSD box without the additional coil driver module.
I don't know the fuel pump power and bypass specs for the Holley Sniper? The FiTech is rated to power a fuel pump up to 15 Amps, and can do Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) of the pump power (not sure the PWM is a big deal?) The regulator is said to work with 340 lph pumps. I am thinking of adding a fuel pressure gauge, and seeing if the rail pressure changes between using the 340 LPH fuel pump and Walbro 450 LPH pump?
I have heard different CFM flow ratings claims between the different brands too? I have no idea how they measured these to make comparisons, but unless your making huge power N/A it likely won't make a difference?
 
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