Fuel line and fuel flooding/boil
- Thread starter Sonny
- Start date
moes
Well-Known Member
Sonny check this out it will help with your problem
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/edl-9265/overview/ or
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/edl-9266/overview/
it depends on what intake you are using
your fuel percolation problem is cause by excessive heat after you shut your motor down and it sits, the gas in the carb boils away make it hard to start up before your fuel pump refills the carb fuel bowl. For your RPM intake you would use the Eddy 9266. We have had very good success with the 9266 and 9265 stopping fuel percolation on motors that use Eddy carbs than with a wooden carb spacer when it comes to stopping fuel percolation from heat. If you look at your temp. gauge after shutting the motor off you will notice it will get hotter (before it gets cooler) because the water is not being circulating through the rad anymore to cool it, the same goes for the fuel in the carb bowl, when you are driving the car the fuel is being pumped the the carb and you burn the fuel in the motor, once you shut down the motor the gas just sits in the carb bowl and the heat boils it away.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/edl-9265/overview/ or
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/edl-9266/overview/
it depends on what intake you are using
your fuel percolation problem is cause by excessive heat after you shut your motor down and it sits, the gas in the carb boils away make it hard to start up before your fuel pump refills the carb fuel bowl. For your RPM intake you would use the Eddy 9266. We have had very good success with the 9266 and 9265 stopping fuel percolation on motors that use Eddy carbs than with a wooden carb spacer when it comes to stopping fuel percolation from heat. If you look at your temp. gauge after shutting the motor off you will notice it will get hotter (before it gets cooler) because the water is not being circulating through the rad anymore to cool it, the same goes for the fuel in the carb bowl, when you are driving the car the fuel is being pumped the the carb and you burn the fuel in the motor, once you shut down the motor the gas just sits in the carb bowl and the heat boils it away.
Last edited:
Sonny
It’s all fun til the rabbit gets the gun.
I’m sorry, fuel what? Filter? Line? Thanks!
not so famous bob
Well-Known Member
I`d take a look at the metal line coming to the pump too. But an elec. fuel pump would solve the problem.
oldbee
Well-Known Member
Sorry, fuel line. Cheap try. Holley also has a carb base gskt with aluminum shield to slow down the heat.
furyus
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Look at where the fuel line runs along the frame rail near the engine. My Dart it seems to run close to the exhaust. I put a heat sleeve on it. Seems to help.
Wonder if those long fuel lines are making it worse? Exposing fuel to engine heat longer?
Sonny
It’s all fun til the rabbit gets the gun.
I read that using steel lines in place of hose is better for vapor lock as well. The steel lines keep the fuel from expanding (unlike the soft rubber hose) therefore helps prevent boiling. Anyone else concur? I’m going to add the steel line and rubber gasket and see if there is any improvement.
i split a piece of 3/8 fuel line and wrapped my 5/16 line with it in the same location.
Sonny
It’s all fun til the rabbit gets the gun.
My thought too. Plus I have 5/16 hard line from the tank to pump then 3/8 from outlet of pump to filter and 3/8 to carb. Seems like a lot of extra fuel hanging around in the 3/8 section. I’m gonna go 5/16 steel from pump to Edelbrock carb 90* hardline unit and fuel filter. Should be 1/2 the length I have now and much less 3/8 section. May have to insulate the hard lines though. We’ll see.
747mopar
Well-Known Member
Guys, if the fuel is boiling out of the carb nothing you do to the fuel lines will fix it, only reducing the transfer of heat to the carb will fix it. Common things to do is add an insulator under the carb, block off the heat cross over in the manifold (pretty sure the RPM doesn't have one), buy a carb more suited for it, run non ethanol fuel and install an electric fuel pump. Although the electric fuel pump does nothing to actually fix it it does give you the abiliy to turn the key to on long enough to refill the bowl prior to starting. I had these problems, 1/2" phenolic spacer and a new Quickfuel (special coating) carb fixed it.
I'd do both. MO on rubber hose is less is better.
747mopar
Well-Known Member
If your referring to insulating fuel lines and carb when you say "Both" I 100% agree. I was only pointing out that the lines have nothing to do with fuel boiling out of the carb. You still will boil fuel in the lines but instead of not starting it will stumble shortly after starting, usually within a mile. I still have this trouble occasionally (usually when I get crappy fuel) but it's very minimal and I insulated the fuel line beside the header. I honestly believe the best fix for this is a return style regulator with a return line to tank, add electric fuel pump and I'm pretty certain most line issues would disapper. I've been wanting to do this for years but $$$ just hasn't been there.
With the electric pump and return regulator you fix 2 things at once, fuel never sits idle in one spot and it allows you to reroute the line where it's not passing past the header or exhaust.
Sonny
It’s all fun til the rabbit gets the gun.
I have that option in my back pocket. Not currently in the mood for new sending unit and more fuel line, but you’re right it’s the “nuclear option”. This is my last attempt at the cheap fix. If I go pump and return, would probably go EFI carb too.
oldbee
Well-Known Member
Is your heat riser blocked off? If not, there’s some more heat at the carb. Mine is broken, so it’s jammed wide open all the time; doesn’t seem to hurt drivability with warm temps only. Choke operation is marginally a little longer to open all the way.
moes
Well-Known Member
Sonny, do you have problems driving the car, does it want to stall out? If fuel is boiling in the gas line that is called vapor lock. But if you only have problems starting the car after shutting it off you are boiling the gas out of the carb from heat. Before changing your fuel lines I would try the Edelbrock Heat Insulator Gasket 9266 (it is only $20) on your RPM air gap intake, you will be surprised how good this gasket works. Edelbrock made this gasket just to stop fuel percolation, they know what they are doing.
Sonny
It’s all fun til the rabbit gets the gun.
I “had” vapor lock problems a few months ago because my fuel hoses were laying on the manifold
. Moved them to the fender and added wood spacer and now only have the hard start issue occasionally but it’s still just 80 degrees here. I had that rubber gasket on the carb but swapped to wood. I’ll swap it back with steel lines and see. Power tour is 6 weeks away and trying to eliminate any issues!I was nervous about all the fuel hose flopping around and wanted to go back to factory steel. Essentially I had 2 questions: hard start and was going hard line a good idea.
moes
Well-Known Member
yes you will want a steel line from your pump to your filter and then to the carb and using only a short piece of rubber gas line at the fuel filter for the connection. We have never had a problem with gas percolation after installing Eddys 9266 or 9265 Nitrile rubber composite gasket and that's on 440 motors to. Like oldbee said is you exhaust heat riser stuck closed it should be open after the motor warms up?
Sonny
It’s all fun til the rabbit gets the gun.
I removed the heat riser and any internal valves.
Korican
Member
I was having similar issues... Check out my thread...
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...rock-1906-along-with-some-other-stuff.152731/
Also look into getting this and it might not be a "cure all" for you issues but I am sure would help nonetheless. I used this and you wrap it around the hose (get size larger than your hose size) with it using velcro to close.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...rock-1906-along-with-some-other-stuff.152731/
Also look into getting this and it might not be a "cure all" for you issues but I am sure would help nonetheless. I used this and you wrap it around the hose (get size larger than your hose size) with it using velcro to close.
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