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1969 Super Bee, too far gone?

K frame is not the correct year, motor is not numbers, appears to have been wrecked hard in the front, rear window metal is junk, roof is junk, 1/4's, all floors, framerails, ...he has better cars for the same money, but not by much.
 
MOPARENT said:
K frame is not the correct year, motor is not numbers, appears to have been wrecked hard in the front, rear window metal is junk, roof is junk, 1/4's, all floors, framerails, ...he has better cars for the same money, but not by much.
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Thanks for the input I appreciate it.

I’m looking for a restoration project to do at home not necessarily a numbers matching spot on original restoration, I’m ok with using fabricated/non original parts...still something I should stay away from?
 
Bill Walak said:
Thanks for the input I appreciate it.

I’m looking for a restoration project to do at home not necessarily a numbers matching spot on original restoration, I’m ok with using fabricated/non original parts...still something I should stay away from?
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There is a big difference between a restoration project to keep you busy and a nightmarish money pit, and that car my friend is the latter.

To answer your second question; unless you have fantastic metal skills and an unlimited budget, that car, or any other in like condition should be avoided like the plague.
 
Sadly yes, that's too far gone. Perhaps a donor for the drivetrain?
 
Bill Walak said:
So my last Super Bee I was interested in fell though (the guy was real sketchy about showing me pictures or videos of the car and I couldn’t justify a wasted 16 hr trip to check it out).

I have my sights on a new project and I’m looking for some input:

1969 Super Bee, original numbers matching engine (383) and 4 spd tranny. Not the original hood (not an N96 car). It’s extremely rusty (see pictures) and will need new quarters floors and trunk pan at the very least, but I believe everything is there for the most part.

In your opinion is this too far gone or worth restoring? this will be a 10+ yr project and I’m not looking to sell it after. I know these are money pits but I’m looking for a project to keep me busy when I have downtime. Price is in the $5000-$6000 range. I am not overly concerned about the “total” restoration cost because it will be spread out over a long period of time and I won’t tell my wife what I’ve spent on it (I’m guessing $30k-$40)

View attachment 601297 View attachment 601298 View attachment 601299 View attachment 601300 View attachment 601301 View attachment 601302 View attachment 601303 View attachment 601304 View attachment 601305 View attachment 601306
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It will probably need rear tail panel,trunk,dutchman,frame rails,quarters,roof,repair behind quarter where it meets under quarter windows,trunk lid(almost impossible to find a good one),floor, major kick panel area repairs,possible cowl,fenders (again impossible to find good ones),upper apron repairs, and a list of things I am forgetting. Yuck,yuck and yuck. Stay away from that. Been there done that.Start with something better.The chances of a 10+ year project seeing the road is very minimal. Set a goal for 2 or 3 years to completion,make it what you want don't get too caught up in numbers matching stuff,that era is turning IMO.
 
MOPARENT said:
K frame is not the correct year, motor is not numbers, appears to have been wrecked hard in the front, rear window metal is junk, roof is junk, 1/4's, all floors, framerails, ...he has better cars for the same money, but not by much.
Click to expand...

the real truth comes out too bad
without the matching number stuff going for it sorta kills any kind of value
now its a 1200 dollar car at best.
and again
nothing is ever too far gone.
but there are better battles to fight out there.
 
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In my opinion, it all boils down to what you plan to spend, and how much you can do yourself. I agree with others that your estimate is WAY short. Mine wasn't near that bad, but I'm not a metal work guy, so I had to pay someone to put my body back together. I have sentimental value in the car (first car I ever bought myself back in '87) or I would have NEVER done it.

I have approximately $8K into AMD metal and over $15K into labor just to get to where it is in the pictures below. Count on there being twice the rust that you can't see than there is that you CAN see.

Your estimate of $30-40K will only get you about halfway done. If this tells you anything,.... not counting the big ticket items like motor ($3-5K min), trans ($1-2K Min), glass ($1K), interior ($4-5K),.... I went through an excel sheet I got from 69bfan on here and all the little stuff I need added up to another $6500 for things like weather-stripping, door handles, interior latches, arm rest frames and pads, mirrors, etc etc etc.... It's easy to say you have all those little things, but once you have nice pretty new paint on there, it's amazing how all those things suddenly look like crap next to that new paint.

Trust the guys on here,..... You are biting off a HUGE project with this one that will cost WAY more than what you are estimating, and WAY more than what it will be worth. You have to decide for yourself, but please go into it knowing this could (and will) turn into a HUGE money pit.

Not a pessimist,... just honest after looking at all the costs piling up on mine!!:eek: Hindsight being 20/20,... I would look for a MUCH cleaner starting point that you can tinker with to finish out and enjoy.

7069.jpeg 7071.jpeg
 
Richard Cranium said:
That is very true. You can restore a car around a pair of good door hinges, but would you want to?
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i'm sort of looking for one like that but i want a hemi or another 6pk car!
one thing going for me is
i'm the freak that trips over most of the hard to find 69 Bee parts to stitch a turd like that back together.
so its mostly my time that would be the investment.
 
Sort of what you're looking for, flypaper?
e271f682c3ec4693beabaaf1105e1d8c.jpg
 
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69 Bees are one of my favorite cars but I would pass on this one but that's me. If you want it and have the expertise to do it yourself then go for it. If you are going to have to pay someone to restore this thing, it's a non starter
 
I'd look for a car with way less rust.
When I was shopping for my coronet, I looked at over 20 cars all over the eastern USA. I drove with a trailer and cash to look at each and every one.

I almost bought a 70 bee that I'm glad I didn't. I brought a friend who didn't have any emotional attachment to my quest.

In the end I ended up with my 68 RT. It has 100% original sheetmetal with zero rust. I've been refining it for 7 years now.
I'm glad I bought one I could drive and hobby with simultaneously. A project like the OP showed is not for the faint of heart, and oftentimes leads to an unfinished effort and loss of motivation and money.
Over the last 6 years I've completed the restoration of the offshore boat in my avatar.
I figured I'd do it for 25 grand (I do all my own paint and body and mechanical / hydraulic / electrical work. It ended up costing me over 50 grand.

Some sound advice for the OP in this thread.
 
It almost seems as if you are determined to buy this car, after being repeatedly told not to. You shouldn't ask for opinions if you are going to ignore them. I have extensive sheet metal replacement experience, and I wouldn't touch that car. The rust will be 5 times worse than what you think it is. Buy a better car.
 
vintage chromoly said:
I almost bought a 70 bee that I'm glad I didn't.
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Smart move!!!



vintage chromoly said:
In the end I ended up with my 68 RT. It has 100% original sheetmetal with zero rust. I've been refining it for 7 years now.
I'm glad I bought one I could drive and hobby with simultaneously. A project like the OP showed is not for the faint of heart, and oftentimes leads to an unfinished effort and loss of motivation and money.
Click to expand...

An even smarter move & very good advice!



vintage chromoly said:
I figured I'd do it for 25 grand (I do all my own paint and body and mechanical / hydraulic / electrical work. It ended up costing me over 50 grand.
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I've restored three cars over the past 6 years and bought a few more that were "done" but needed a fair amount of detailing, so I've got a pretty good handle on what things cost. However, most people just don't realize how much the restoration of a car really is, especially a Mopar, which are far more expensive than a Chebby. It's fairly easy to figure the costs of the big ticket items, but there are hundreds of smaller parts that will cost a hundred here & three hundred there and before you know it, you've racked up several more thousands in receipts........with thousands of additional dollars needed.
 
Richard Cranium said:
but there are hundreds of smaller parts that will cost a hundred here & three hundred there and before you know it, you've racked up several more thousands in receipts........with thousands of additional dollars needed.
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Amen RC!!!

I was expecting some of the high dollar assemblies like the motor, and I decided to convert to 4spd, so I knew what a kit to do that costs, but like you say,.... the little things?!?! ...

Some of the things that got me were the price of a rebuilt 3spd wiper motor ($300-$500 w/core charge), door panels ($500-$600) and upper pads ($1091 for the set), Instrument panel restoration ($1500 - $2000 depending where you go (Decided to do it myself)), AC System $$$$. Not to mention all the little things that add up quick like $150 for a new repop remote mirror, Bumper re-chroming...

You gotta want it, or you'll get overwhelmed and quit. I want it done!, and I still find myself scratching my head wondering what the heck I am doing as my savings is bleeding out!!??
 
its a sad day when hookers and cocaine are cheaper than wheel well moldings.
 
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