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looking for headers, with ease of installation

I just installed a set of 1 7/8" TTI's on my coronet.
It's a 4 speed.
I used a Robbmac starter. It was pricey, but I didn't want to roll the dice with an auto parts store reman offering and have to remove the drivers side header to replace a starter.

The fit is perfect with zero denting of tubes.

I did install mine while the engine and K-frame was out of the car. I wouldn't want to do it with the engine in the car.
 
I've got the mini starter mentioned #P53005984AB been working great since 2012. I have Schumacher Tri-Y headers installed, all I did was remove #8 spark plug, the battery and tray and they dropped right in from the top. Maybe took me an hour or so cause I had to take sips of beer in between every bolt. BTW love the color of your RR, call me bias :)
 
Those are 452's for RB engines, unfortunately. Smokin' deal for sure. Koosh needs P/N 451 for B engine. According to Doug's catalog, the fitment is very specific.
 
69 R/T said:
Those are 452's for RB engines, unfortunately. Smokin' deal for sure. Koosh needs P/N 451 for B engine. According to Doug's catalog, the fitment is very specific.
Click to expand...
Shoot, sorry. Didn't read all the way through, was heading to a meeting when I saw them.
 
I'm almost tempted...just in case I ever decide to swing that way. Those are definitely the one's I would buy.
 
I bought a set of ceramic coated Flowtechs last fall, waiting for me to get the ambition to put them on.
 
eagleone1983 said:
I've got the mini starter mentioned #P53005984AB been working great since 2012. I have Schumacher Tri-Y headers installed, all I did was remove #8 spark plug, the battery and tray and they dropped right in from the top. Maybe took me an hour or so cause I had to take sips of beer in between every bolt. BTW love the color of your RR, call me bias :)
Click to expand...
eagle.....do you have 383, 4-speed, with manual steering? I'm looking at those Tri-Y's.....hoping for that old school, 60's sound, (headers & glass pack mufflers)
 
OK.....no laughing....(well, go ahead. I would)
Once I pick out headers, I assuming I need total new exhaust from collectors back? If I have stock dual exhaust now, is any of it useable? Never had headers on a regular car....only outside headers on a hot rod...
Thanks in advance!
 
koosh said:
OK.....no laughing....(well, go ahead. I would)
Once I pick out headers, I assuming I need total new exhaust from collectors back? If I have stock dual exhaust now, is any of it useable? Never had headers on a regular car....only outside headers on a hot rod...
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Depends on the sound YOU are looking for. Exhaust is sort of like a trombone of sorts. Size of pipe affects sound, placement of mufflers / resonators affects sound, and style of mufflers / resonators affects sound. My suggestion is to painstakingly find videos (YouTube) of products and listen to them to find the ones you like best. Remember, glasspacks are glasspacks for a short time. Then they become a straight pipe. The fiberglass doesn't stay in forever. But the 'ol Cherry Bombs are cool.

I didn't pay too much attention 40+ years ago to exhaust size, but if I had to guess, most were 2-inch. If you are primarily running a street car, I believe 2-1/2 inch is a good size. The extra cost of 3-inch I beleive is unnecessary. If racing is important, then 3-inch is an option. Have fun.
 
if your current exhaust is in good shape, you don't need to replace it. You should get the other end of the header flange with your new headers. You'll need to cut your pipes to length, and have the flanges welded to your pipes to mate up to the headers.
 
rlem1977 said:
Depends on the sound YOU are looking for. Exhaust is sort of like a trombone of sorts. Size of pipe affects sound, placement of mufflers / resonators affects sound, and style of mufflers / resonators affects sound. My suggestion is to painstakingly find videos (YouTube) of products and listen to them to find the ones you like best. Remember, glasspacks are glasspacks for a short time. Then they become a straight pipe. The fiberglass doesn't stay in forever. But the 'ol Cherry Bombs are cool.

I didn't pay too much attention 40+ years ago to exhaust size, but if I had to guess, most were 2-inch. If you are primarily running a street car, I believe 2-1/2 inch is a good size. The extra cost of 3-inch I beleive is unnecessary. If racing is important, then 3-inch is an option. Have fun.
Click to expand...
Yes...Cherry Bombs WAY cool, is what i prefer....
 
Basket case said:
if your current exhaust is in good shape, you don't need to replace it. You should get the other end of the header flange with your new headers. You'll need to cut your pipes to length, and have the flanges welded to your pipes to mate up to the headers.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that advice!
 
I have a 383 but it's automatic with power steering. From my headers they mate up to a TTI 2.5" H pipe exhaust system with cutouts and DynoMax UltraFlos.
 
I sprung for Doug's and ceramic coating. It was a toss up for mine with P/S. Install was EASY and used Remflex gaskets with "Stage-8" fasteners.

Header.jpg
 
koosh said:
"Toss up"? What does that mean? Easier with PS?
Click to expand...

To be clear, a toss up between TTi and Doug's in regards to fit, price, and quality. Both are made very good. Mine went in with no issues what so ever, having P/S on my car. Sorry
 
koosh said:
OK.....no laughing....(well, go ahead. I would)
Once I pick out headers, I assuming I need total new exhaust from collectors back? If I have stock dual exhaust now, is any of it useable? Never had headers on a regular car....only outside headers on a hot rod...
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
We did this routinely back then, you don't need new exhaust, just fabricate a transition pipe from the reducer to your existing pipe, usually a slight reduction in the diameter. 1 3/4 primary is sufficient for a stock 383.
 
It seems like everyone has their favorite header & there is a lot of good information here.
To Koosh,
1. My current Heddman 1-3/4" tubes fit perfectly with stock heads.
2. You can use your current exhaust. Have a muffler shop cut off the front of your current exhaust & connect it to the header collectors. They will probably need a very short piece of pipe bent/welded onto each side...maybe $100-$150.
3. A "slip tube" is when the headers are NOT 1-piece. One or more of the primary tubes "slip" into the front end of the big collector and don't need to be welded. This makes installation A LOT easier.
4. Headers are always a PIA to install and most muffler shops won't even do the work. You need to have the front of the car a mile in the air & the rear of the car a 1/2 mile in the air. Un-bolt the engine mounts (one big bolt, do one side at a time) & lean the engine over to install one side. A cherry picker is best, but you can also use a big piece of plywood and a floor jack under the oil pan (may dent it). Disconnecting the center link (just idler arm & pitman arm so it won't mess with your alignment) is often required.
5. I put on several sets of headers with the larger, stock starter BUT the mini-starters give you A LOT more clearance in that area & make header installation (& changing starters later), MUCH easier. The starter/steering is often a tight spot during header installation.
6. I bought one of the '94'ish Dodge Dakota small block starters at Autozone years ago and like it. I only needed very minor modification to where the +/- wires connect so it wouldn't touch the block...30 min. job to modify.
 
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