NJRR
Well-Known Member
So it was a pretty successful conversion today. Removing the old master cylinder was a real pain though. Getting under the dash isn't as easy as it used to be. Three of the nuts were pretty easy to remove. 1/2" deep socket, extension on the ratchet, universal joint for the top left nut. The top right nut was the challenge. The deep socket didn't allow me to attach a u joint on it.
a regular 3/8" drive 1/2" socket wasn't deep enough to get on the nut, the stud was too long. I didn't have a 1/4" drive 1/2 " deep socket, which might have worked. The 1/2" drive 1/2" socket with a 1/2" u joint and 6" extension allowed me to finally back the nut off slowly. Unscrewed the nut and bolt connecting the push rod to the brake pedal and the old MC came right out ( drained the fluid with a turkey baster and disconnected both brake lines before I started nut removal). Planned on using the old studs and nuts to attach the new Right Stuff master cylinder. Ran into my second challenge there. the holes on the new MC were bigger and the old studs just spun around and there would be no way to tighten them unless i held the round head with vice grips. Given how hard access was to the nuts under the dash, I opted to use some 5/16 x 1 1/4" grade 8 hex bolts with lock washers and nylon stop nuts. I know it's not original but I didn't want to interrupt the install to search out studs that fit, so I used the hex bolts. I put the nuts on the engine compartment side to make it easier to install and any future removal.
Before I installed the new MC, I bench bled it. Got a kit from AdvancedAuto for $7, had different threaded hose connectors, hose, clip to hold the vinyl tubes in the brake fluid and plugs to plug the hose after bleeding. I used the old push rod to pump the MC. Didn't take long till it was just fluid pumping thru and no more bubbles. Installed the push rod with a new rubber retainer,used some dielectric grease on the retainer to help push it in. Bolted up the new MC and reconnected the pump rod and brake lines.
The proportioning valve was pretty easy to install. I used 2 30" pre-flared 3/16" brake lines and one 3/16" flare union. I had to bend the lines to make it fit. I mounted the prop valve on the fender wall using an existing hole and a 1/4" bolt and nut. I disconnected the rear brake line from the distribution block , used a union to connect that to the out line on the prop valve and the in line on the prop valve back to the distribution block. I then proceeded to bleed the whole system. Used the traditional 2 man method, one on the bleeder, one pumping the brake pedal. I used almost a full quart of Dot 3 brake fluid and got a very nice firm pedal when done. I kept the prop valve at the midway point since the instructions said that's where to start when adjusting. That brings me to the next challenge. I took the car for a test drive. The brand new front discs were a little squeaky. And, the car was stopping very good even without the pads and rotors not being bedded in. The challenge was adjusting the prop valve. I could not get the rear brakes to lock up. I adjusted the prop valve multiple ways, all the way increased, all the way decreased, and different settings in between. The rears would not lock up at all and the car stopped straight and fast. I'm not complaining as the brakes were working great and a big improvement over the old drums. But, I wonder if I even need the prop valve to begin with. Maybe I'll disconnect it and see if that makes any difference. Another issue which I didn't get to address yet was the brake light on the dash is always on. Not sure if I disturbed the wire on the switch in the distribution block or if some dirt got in there when I plumbed in the prop valve. But, I know both front and rear brakes are solid and working, with no leaks. Any ideas?
Overall, the whole conversion was pretty problem free. The SSBC kit fit perfectly, the 15/16" Right Stuff MC gave me a nice firm manual pedal and the car stops straight and fast. I'm assuming as the pads bed in the braking will be even better. Here's some pics of the install.
a regular 3/8" drive 1/2" socket wasn't deep enough to get on the nut, the stud was too long. I didn't have a 1/4" drive 1/2 " deep socket, which might have worked. The 1/2" drive 1/2" socket with a 1/2" u joint and 6" extension allowed me to finally back the nut off slowly. Unscrewed the nut and bolt connecting the push rod to the brake pedal and the old MC came right out ( drained the fluid with a turkey baster and disconnected both brake lines before I started nut removal). Planned on using the old studs and nuts to attach the new Right Stuff master cylinder. Ran into my second challenge there. the holes on the new MC were bigger and the old studs just spun around and there would be no way to tighten them unless i held the round head with vice grips. Given how hard access was to the nuts under the dash, I opted to use some 5/16 x 1 1/4" grade 8 hex bolts with lock washers and nylon stop nuts. I know it's not original but I didn't want to interrupt the install to search out studs that fit, so I used the hex bolts. I put the nuts on the engine compartment side to make it easier to install and any future removal.
Before I installed the new MC, I bench bled it. Got a kit from AdvancedAuto for $7, had different threaded hose connectors, hose, clip to hold the vinyl tubes in the brake fluid and plugs to plug the hose after bleeding. I used the old push rod to pump the MC. Didn't take long till it was just fluid pumping thru and no more bubbles. Installed the push rod with a new rubber retainer,used some dielectric grease on the retainer to help push it in. Bolted up the new MC and reconnected the pump rod and brake lines.
The proportioning valve was pretty easy to install. I used 2 30" pre-flared 3/16" brake lines and one 3/16" flare union. I had to bend the lines to make it fit. I mounted the prop valve on the fender wall using an existing hole and a 1/4" bolt and nut. I disconnected the rear brake line from the distribution block , used a union to connect that to the out line on the prop valve and the in line on the prop valve back to the distribution block. I then proceeded to bleed the whole system. Used the traditional 2 man method, one on the bleeder, one pumping the brake pedal. I used almost a full quart of Dot 3 brake fluid and got a very nice firm pedal when done. I kept the prop valve at the midway point since the instructions said that's where to start when adjusting. That brings me to the next challenge. I took the car for a test drive. The brand new front discs were a little squeaky. And, the car was stopping very good even without the pads and rotors not being bedded in. The challenge was adjusting the prop valve. I could not get the rear brakes to lock up. I adjusted the prop valve multiple ways, all the way increased, all the way decreased, and different settings in between. The rears would not lock up at all and the car stopped straight and fast. I'm not complaining as the brakes were working great and a big improvement over the old drums. But, I wonder if I even need the prop valve to begin with. Maybe I'll disconnect it and see if that makes any difference. Another issue which I didn't get to address yet was the brake light on the dash is always on. Not sure if I disturbed the wire on the switch in the distribution block or if some dirt got in there when I plumbed in the prop valve. But, I know both front and rear brakes are solid and working, with no leaks. Any ideas?
Overall, the whole conversion was pretty problem free. The SSBC kit fit perfectly, the 15/16" Right Stuff MC gave me a nice firm manual pedal and the car stops straight and fast. I'm assuming as the pads bed in the braking will be even better. Here's some pics of the install.
