440 header studs instead of bolts?

Ratroaster · May 14, 2018

Hello again.
Has anyone out there in Mopar land used studs instead of bolts for fastening headers to a
440 block. If so, what make did you wind up using. I know ARP makes a set that might
work but they’re super $$$.
Thanks,
RR

jimt1971rr · May 14, 2018

I have found it to be difficult, if not impossible, to get the headers over and onto the studs. The clearance is just too tight. I have not, however, attached them while the engine was out of the car so it might work that way.

WileERobby · May 14, 2018

I have, and always had, studs. I've found it much easier. Sometimes, you may have to use a bolt, depending on the design of the header tubes. For example, I use a bolt on the rear hole of #1 due to the pipe.(edit: don't forget thread sealant)

Ratroaster · May 14, 2018

WileERobby said:
I have, and always had, studs. I've found it much easier. Sometimes, you may have to use a bolt, depending on the design of the header tubes. For example, I use a bolt on the rear hole of #1 due to the pipe.(edit: don't forget thread sealant)

The sealant is why I'm leaning towards studs. I've got at least one bolt hole that goes
into the water jacket in the head. Thought that a sealed stud would save losing all the
coolant if I had to take a bolt out. What studs did you wind up using?
RR

WP29440SE · May 14, 2018

every single fastener holding my headers on are studs. I wouldn't have it any other way

WileERobby · May 14, 2018

I've been using studs for 45 or so years.And I haven't bought any in years, always had a supply on my parts shelf. You can get them at jegs, 440 source, etc. They're 3/8 fine/coarse thread, if I recall.

66Satellite47 · May 15, 2018

If you can fit the headers in place using studs, great. Dorman has a pretty good selection. Summit has them.

peabodyracin · May 15, 2018

They do work slick if, as already mentioned you have enough room in the engine compartment to slip them over the studs. Sometimes a tube will make an immediate turn in such a way that the stud interferes, preventing you from getting the flange tight against the head. I've also run into clearance problems between the nut and adjacent tube, depending on tube size. Those little heads on header bolts are made that way for a reason.

Frustration · May 15, 2018

Absolutely! Do it! What headers are you running? I got my studs from Ace Hardware. Used Permatex when installing to seal them. I need to lift the engine to get the headers on, but they fit fine. Use the shortest studs you can get that will safely install the headers. You may want to put one stud in the head and fit the header to it to see how much extra length the stud has. If too long, simply cut off the part that's not needed with a hack saw. When cutting, put the nut on the stud so that you can run it over the rough end when done. This works like a poor-mans die. Good luck.

khryslerkid · May 15, 2018

I like a stud at both ends, bolts in the middle. When changing the starter you can let the header hang on the front stud.

Daves69 · May 15, 2018

IMO, Sort of depends on the bends of the tubes. If they are far enough away from the stud end when tightened or you may need to cut the stud shorter to accommodate. The wrench used will be a bit larger than one used for a header bolt.
One of my old header bolt wrenches...............

PurpleBeeper · May 15, 2018

Ratroaster said:
The sealant is why I'm leaning towards studs. I've got at least one bolt hole that goes
into the water jacket in the head. Thought that a sealed stud would save losing all the
coolant if I had to take a bolt out. What studs did you wind up using?
RR

Hey Rat, I have always used studs, though sometimes one/two bolts for primary header tube clearance. I do however, cut about 1/2" off of each stud to make the headers go on easier. You don't need expensive studs for the headers.

Speedbird · May 15, 2018

Check Summit's selection.
Try this for your water passage sealant.

67belvedere/225 · May 15, 2018

one thing about headers , is when you install them very important to retorque the bolts often
so you don't blow gaskets

Daves69 · May 15, 2018

Another caution using studs, make sure the nut doesn't bottom on the shank area and you end up cranking the stud in too far, possibly cracking the stud hole. Most header flanges are thick enough for the stock stud I do believe. But you never know what could have been installed after the fact.

Speedbird · May 15, 2018

I used the old double nut trick to lock the nuts on the studs.
Stainless nuts IIRC.

WileERobby · May 15, 2018

onlyone said:
I used the old double nut trick to lock the nuts on the studs.
Stainless nuts IIRC.

My nuts are stainless.

khryslerkid · May 15, 2018

My nuts are brass. Like a monkey's

WP29440SE · May 15, 2018

ok , where's RC with his nut description?

POMONAMISSEL · May 15, 2018

nothing but stock studs on headers , just grade 8 , hex nuts

440 header studs instead of bolts?

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