Where is a good place to get an oem style alternator. I have a 70 RR 440+6. I believe it is a 60 amp & single pulley. Also no wiring modifications on mine.
Thanks
Chuck
Thanks
Chuck
Alternator Question
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moparnation74
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What type of OEM are you wanting.....A 100% original date coded restored unit? Or a newer aftermarket equivalent?
Hopefully, it is the second option.....The first is near impossible to find a correct undamaged unit to get restored....
Hopefully, it is the second option.....The first is near impossible to find a correct undamaged unit to get restored....
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I might have a date coded 69 . I rebuilt a few alternators pass few years. I Will look and get back to you...
Either one is an option.
My car was built 11/69
Nacho-RT74
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69 wouldn't be correct, they are roundback but still single field. 70 and 71 are still roundback but dual field
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Should look just like this
Or this ( without the provision for the brush to be grounded )
Or this ( without the provision for the brush to be grounded )
69tri
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Bought a reman unit from summit racing for the 65 coronet. $45. Looks good and fit perfect. Although the 65 has only one male spade plug. When he was looking mine up he showed me that alternator with the two spades. So I know they sell that one also.
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Two spades are for STOCK electronic regulators ( two wires or fields to alt brushes. ). To be used on mech reg systems ( one wire or field to the alt brush ) one of the prongs needs to be grounded.
The ones pictured are ROUNDBACKS 2 fields, only used on 70/71. Since 72 a new one came out, called commonly squareback, on the same 2 fields disposition and works the same than 70/71 roundbacks. Reason for the names "roundback" and "squarebacks" are obvious.
There are some variations of this one too, but that's off topic to the thread
The ones pictured are ROUNDBACKS 2 fields, only used on 70/71. Since 72 a new one came out, called commonly squareback, on the same 2 fields disposition and works the same than 70/71 roundbacks. Reason for the names "roundback" and "squarebacks" are obvious.
There are some variations of this one too, but that's off topic to the thread
Am I correct with a 60 amp alternator ??
Chuck
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Nacho-RT74
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I'd use a 100 amps alt LOL, but for a car without AC a 60 amps unit with SMALL pullley to get the best juice from it while iddling what is the weakest point on stock alts ( iddle speed power ) could be enough. Factory alts for cars without AC barelly were on the 45-50 amps rate! Big mistake from MaMopar specially with the poor output power at low/iddle speeds they provided!
Would I harm the electrical system if I went with a 85 amp alt. Remember completely stock setup.
Chuck
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not really... trust me... you are actually guaranteed to get the alt able to source everything the car will ask for at any speed.
a 85 amps alt doens't meen will source 85 amps, just that is ABLE to do it if needed. The car loads will never change. The only device on car what affects the more or less load requested by the system is the batt if discharged. If you never get a discharged batt, the car loads will be more less steady. Stock 35-45 amps from those years caused lack of power while iddling, making the car to suck the power from batt. That made to overload the system getting the batt charged back ALLONG with the regular car loads.
is like when you charge your cellphone or connect a hair dryer on same wall outlet! The wall outlet is able to source it and circuit is prottected by a 20 breaker maybe, but doesn't mean the cell phone charger or cell phone itself will burn because you are connecting it to a protected 20 amps circuit.
To be in peace, you can run a parallel wire to the exiting one between alt post and amm post ( 12 or 10 gauge is enough to the existant stock 12 gauge ) and will help to save any extra load running through the bulkhead required, and still able to keep the ammeter working. For a car without A/C, the batt section of a parallel wiring wouldn't be even needed, but of course is even better if is made.
Once you make to keep the amm needle centered with a nice alternator saving the batt from being sucked out, you'll notice the difference on everything!!!
a 85 amps alt doens't meen will source 85 amps, just that is ABLE to do it if needed. The car loads will never change. The only device on car what affects the more or less load requested by the system is the batt if discharged. If you never get a discharged batt, the car loads will be more less steady. Stock 35-45 amps from those years caused lack of power while iddling, making the car to suck the power from batt. That made to overload the system getting the batt charged back ALLONG with the regular car loads.
is like when you charge your cellphone or connect a hair dryer on same wall outlet! The wall outlet is able to source it and circuit is prottected by a 20 breaker maybe, but doesn't mean the cell phone charger or cell phone itself will burn because you are connecting it to a protected 20 amps circuit.
To be in peace, you can run a parallel wire to the exiting one between alt post and amm post ( 12 or 10 gauge is enough to the existant stock 12 gauge ) and will help to save any extra load running through the bulkhead required, and still able to keep the ammeter working. For a car without A/C, the batt section of a parallel wiring wouldn't be even needed, but of course is even better if is made.
Once you make to keep the amm needle centered with a nice alternator saving the batt from being sucked out, you'll notice the difference on everything!!!
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