Any tips for replacing the rear suspension components

Wietse · Jun 2, 2018

Hey guys,

The plan is to start tomorrow on the next project, replacing the rear end suspension components.
I've got a set of Bilstein shocks, XHD leaf springs and a Polygraphite shackle/bushing kit to be installed.
Other components will be reused after a blasting/painting job with POR15 paint.

First thing i wonder is, how to jack the car up in a way to make sure i don't need to move stuff over once lifted and removing the leaf springs.
What is the best place to lift the car up, after i will have to support the rear axle as well when removing the springs and stuff?
Or leaving the wheels on will help in allowing the rear axle to just hang there while i take care of the parts to be blasted and painted?

Any other suggestions that might ease the job?

Cranky · Jun 2, 2018

A floor jack is your friend and I like to leave the wheels/tires on to roll it out once all the bolts are out. Use the floor jack to take the load off of the bolts then lower it down....assuming you are not using a lift.

vintage chromoly · Jun 2, 2018

If you sand blast the housing, be prepared to spend considerable time and solvent cleaning the sand out of the housing.
I blasted a housing once and it took 2 cases of brake cleaner and a few hours to get the sand out.
It just kept coming out. I'd think I had it all, blow it dry, and more sand!

Wietse · Jun 2, 2018

My plan is to leave the rear axle in place, not disconnecting the axle etc. and just do the suspension components only.
In the future i will have to do the axle itself, brakes, bearings and change the gearing ratio, but for now only leaf springs, shackles and shocks.

I have no lift, got 2 hydraulic jacks and 2 jack stands to work with.
My thought was to raise the car, install the 2 jack stands on a location under the frame ??
Then i can use the hydr jacks to support the axle during shackle removal.

JB400 · Jun 2, 2018

Put the jack at the pumpkin, and jack the car up. Put your jackstand at the frame rail near the front spring perch. Lower the jack till you just start to take pressure off the springs. If anything is in a bind when you disassemble it, you have too much pressure on the springs, either by the jack, or the weight of rear end

Wietse · Jun 2, 2018

Thx JB, wasn't sure to support the car under the frame itself is the best position.

Guess once the wheels are about to come free from the floor that is the point where the spring will be sitting in it's tension free position and is safe to loosen the shackles.

WileERobby · Jun 2, 2018

Spray alot of PB blaster on all the nuts and bolts prior to disassembly.

Ron H · Jun 2, 2018

Where you position the stands varies by the car and better to have them behind the axle and not in the way of the shackle bolts if you have a good frame location. In one case I dropped the exhaust pipe rear hangers so they were able to be slanted out of the way for me to have a trusty location for the stands. You should have a support under the pumpkin removing the springs; but not enough to have tension on the springs. This could be handy when trying to align the bolts when installing new springs. You're not thinking of blasting with axle housing on the car right? I took my axle housing off when blasting and powder coating it and having done blasting under a car...it's a messy bitch as posted above and you may blast some areas you don't want blasted including fuel/brake lines. Maybe I miss-understood...if not might think on combining these chores when you're ready to remove the axle housing. Can you find a buddy or relative who can loan you a floor jack?

493 Mike · Jun 2, 2018

When I rebuilt my leaf springs I did one side at a time. If you have the time I recommend it.
Mike

69tri · Jun 3, 2018

We put our jack stands under the frame right in front of front spring hanger. Used a floor jack under the pumpkin. We had the wheels off as we were completely removing the rear diff. Replaced everything and rolled the diff back in place and bolted everything back together. We left all the bolts a little loose that go through the bushings until we jacked up the rear diff to get the stands out and put them under the differential to squat the suspension. Then we tightened the bolts to reduce suspension bind. That's the process we used. Seemed to work out good.

Wietse · Jun 3, 2018

Thx for the tips guys.
@Ron, i will not do the axle this time, just replace suspension for now and enjoy summer time driving.
Winter time i might get to the rear axle itself.

Wietse · Jun 3, 2018

Oh, and i am sure all of you highly recommend re-using these right?! :nutkick:

Just realised and ordered an adjustable pinion snubber on Summit.
Someone mentioned, when using XHD springs like i will this is too high and requires a small modification by cutting an 1" off the adjustment tower.
Not sure anyone used this before??
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-3690182

AR67GTX · Jun 3, 2018

I would probably do the rear end at the same time as the suspension. It's easier to just pull all the components at once.

I carefully masked my differential housing to keep sand out of it - think I used Gorilla tape over the top to stand up to the sandblasting.

Sandblasting the springs is a real chore at home with a small blaster but given enough time - it gets done. I was real careful to keep the leaves for each side together and oriented front/rear together so I didn't mix anything up.

And it looks 100% better when doing the whole unit at once when it goes back in.

The above advise for jacking the car on the center differential and jackstands near the front spring hangers is spot on.

I went to this guy to find some stuff that was correct - shackles, U-bolts, etc.

http://www.billrolikenterprises.com/proddetail.asp?prod=3491296-P

Wietse · Jun 3, 2018

I understand what you mean by doing all at once, although i do not want to spend to much time with the car standing still in summer time....now is the time to drive here due to the weather.
The suspension and bushings are shot and require replacement a.s.a.p., rear axle has no problems or issues and will require a cosmetic job.
But if i do pull the rear axle i will replace wheel bearings, seals and rebuild the brakes to complete it. (did not even finalise and order parts for this yet)
Rear drive swap is a personal preference as i have no idea why a 440 needs a 4.10 gear ratio, other then burning excessive fuel.

Edit: i got new leafs springs which are already prepped in a coat of POR15, just need to clean, blast and paint the brackets and bolt it back in place with new bushings etc.

Wietse · Jun 3, 2018

1 out... 1 to go!

Billccm · Jun 3, 2018

I'm going to tackle this on my road runner in the fall. Watching and looking for advice.

Wietse · Jun 3, 2018

I believed the bracket at the axle itself also should come off?
Looks like its welded onto the axle tubes....

For some reason i am not able to upload any pictures...says file size is too big but picture size is below 200Kb...

JB400 · Jun 3, 2018

The bracket on the axle does not come off. It keeps the axle centered left to right and front to back on the leaf springs

Wietse · Jun 4, 2018

Some progress, all items that are going to be reused were blasted and painted with POR15!

New XHD leaf springs!!

Also added some pictures of how i set up the jacks to support the car, and to support the axle and shaft.
Once it set on the jack stands, the wheels were off the floor around 1/2" and they dropped down once the spring is loosened.
Think i might be able to lift it by hand the get the last shackle pin in.

Wietse · Jun 5, 2018

Mission completed!
Only had to jack the car up higher when installing the new leaf springs, probably shows how far the old leaf springs were shot.
For the rest all went smooth, thx guys for your suggestions!
Trunk lid height is just over 38" now, stance appears similar as before, although the old springs were supported by the additional bars. (don't remember the name)

Any tips for replacing the rear suspension components

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