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Just converted to Electronic Ignition, can't get rid of ping

ozbie said:
Thanks for the great feedback, I just purchased an adjustable timing light (amazon), I will check the adjustability of this distributor, if needed the limiter plate seems like a likely option, I see Mancini sells these.
This should be fun!
Click to expand...

If that is a Mopar Distributor, it may be adjustable and not need the plate. Here is an image of the stock distributor below with the non-adjustable slots and then the second image is the adjustable unit. Those black torq screws can be loosened and the timing plates can be brought closer to limit the curve of the distributor weights.

44-1024x577.jpg


5-Accel-mechanical-advance-l.jpg
 
moparedtn said:
Yessir, that's where mine is now and I'm running the electronic Mopar setup (orange box).
I don't use vacuum advance at all, since it makes mine run all wonky. I know, I need to adjust it with the little allen wrench, just haven't fooled with it.

What color box are you running, ozbie? It matters.
Click to expand...
I run the Chrome Box. Both boxes should be fine until 6000 RPM. The Chrome box won't retard the timing until higher up. I think he has a fuel issue or something going on if it wont run for beans no matter where he puts it timing wise.
 
It's an orange box and the distributor is specifically designed for this application.
 
ozbie said:
It's an orange box and the distributor is specifically designed for this application.
Click to expand...
Ok, you've basically got the old Mopar Performance electronic ignition kit then.
You need to be able to mark on your balancer where 36 degrees BTDC is, where 0 TDC is and say where 10BTDC is to give you some reference points.
Timing tape is real handy for this.
It also would be real handy to find the engines' ACTUAL TDC (top dead center) - 0 degrees TDC in other words.
Do you know how to do that?
 
91r/t said:
If that is a Mopar Distributor, it may be adjustable and not need the plate. Here is an image of the stock distributor below with the non-adjustable slots and then the second image is the adjustable unit. Those black torq screws can be loosened and the timing plates can be brought closer to limit the curve of the distributor weights.
View attachment 613053
View attachment 613054
Click to expand...
Agree with all that, but I'd suggest we first find out exactly what he has.
 
moparedtn said:
Agree with all that, but I'd suggest we first find out exactly what he has.
Click to expand...

Figured we might find out what distributor he has so when he adjusts the timing he doesn't buy that plate for no reason.

:thumbsup:
 
There is a stock timing marker (up to 15 btdc, I believe), but I don't know how accurate it is, I think checking the TDC is good advice (will do).
 
Is there any special coil requirement for points and electronic ignitions, or are they interchangeable?
 
ozbie said:
Is there any special coil requirement for points and electronic ignitions, or are they interchangeable?
Click to expand...
If you have a decent quality 12V coil, you should be good to go on that front.
In fact, when I converted mine to electronic, I took out the stock ballast resistor since there was no longer a need to knock primary voltage down to the distributor (which is done with points to keep from frying them I think).
 
ozbie said:
There is a stock timing marker (up to 15 btdc, I believe), but I don't know how accurate it is, I think checking the TDC is good advice (will do).
Click to expand...
Yep, I have a thread on here somewhere where I did exactly that, with lots of help from folks here.
Bought the TDC piston stop tool and found "true" TDC using it, then marked that on the balancer - and yes, luckily mine was dead on.
Some aren't as accurate, though, for whatever reason.
From there, I marked where 36BTDC is on the stock balancer (used a correct timing tape to find it, then just marked the balancer itself since the damn tape wouldn't stick to it :) ).
 
lewtot184 said:
nope, that's just centrifugal and initial; vacuum advance is another 18 degrees.
Click to expand...

Yes if you set the initial at 15 then your at 41 degrees which is too much. I read it wrong......dummy moment :) Trying to play on FBBO and do work at the same time always gets me from time to time.
 
Problem solved, thanks for all the great feedback and inspiration. Replaced the stock ballast with the one from the kit (doh), set the timing to around 12 degrees btdc and voila, runs like a beast. I'm pretty sure it was the ballast.
 
ozbie said:
Problem solved, thanks for all the great feedback and inspiration. Replaced the stock ballast with the one from the kit (doh), set the timing to around 12 degrees btdc and voila, runs like a beast. I'm pretty sure it was the ballast.
Click to expand...
ballast would have nothing to do with it. I think you were just trying to run too much total. there are options for a good ignition tune.
 
I had the timing set to 12 previous to replacing the ballast with no luck, all I know is when I replaced it the ping went away. I noticed the resistances were different between ballasts...it is also possible that there was a loose connection.
 
As I recall, the stock ballast (for use with points) knocks voltage down to 5VDC.
I wound up running a ballast that allowed 12VDC through and honestly, the ballast could be taken out of the loop totally with electronic ignition.

By the way, if the car doesn't already have an electronic voltage regulator, it'd be a good idea to do that as well to provide a steady voltage to the ignition.
Glad to hear you've got it sorted out.
 
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