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crank, crank, crank, crank, crank, crank, crank.................

The amount of heat that get to the pump ain't going to do squat for heating the gas. Your over thinking the problem, "it's the gas", it has nothing with the motor.
 
69a100 said:
The amount of heat that get to the pump ain't going to do squat for heating the gas. Your over thinking the problem, "it's the gas", it has nothing with the motor.
Click to expand...

Well the gas isn't going away anytime soon so we have to adapt to using it. The pump and carb act like a heat sink so isolating them and the lines can be beneficial. I had issues with the stock setup so I went electric and have had no issues since.
 
69 GTX said:
OK so this might be a little far fetched but what about a phenolic spacer for the fuel pump? Make a slightly longer pushrod and maybe a rubber gasket to try and seal off the pump from the block......but maybe more work than it's worth. Plus I guess that might throw off the geometry of the rod to pump arm. I just hate the whine of a electric fuel pump.
Click to expand...
You could probably machine a little off the pump face to do that but you still have all those lines running up against the block picking up heat. The new in-tank electric pumps are really quiet. Somebody probably makes a tank for these cars with the option for single or dual walbro in tank pumps by now?
 
727 said:
My other cars I install boat tank hand pump bulbs on the suction side of the mechanical pump. Works like a charm for cars that have been sitting up for a while or victims of heat soak.
Click to expand...

Well, I took the advice above and went this route. Picked up a couple marine primer bulbs from my local West Marine this morning & they work like a charm. Just give it a few squeezes, then pump the gas 3 or 4 times and it starts right up.

13854278.jpg



:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
As I always say, "If it works good, use it"!
 
Richard Cranium said:
Well, I took the advice above and went this route. Picked up a couple marine primer bulbs from my local West Marine this morning & they work like a charm. Just give it a few squeezes, then pump the gas 3 or 4 times and it starts right up.

View attachment 607670


:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
Click to expand...


now you need to fish one of these bad boys through the firewall, right next to the E brake release :thumbsup:


51auu3CCV2L._SX355_.jpg
 
Put in a one way check valve at carb or in front of pump problem will go away.
 
I believe evaporation through the vents is the bigger problem...…

For those running edelbrock carbs: the accelerator pump rubber shrinks when dry, pumping the pedal will do nothing until the rubber swells up after the bowls fill...…… it may take a little while
 
I have Holley carburetors that seem to hold the fuel longer than any ThermoQuad that I have owned. The Demon 850 in my Charger holds fuel awhile too.
I have a 75 Power Wagon with a 440 and a Holley 600. That truck sits for weeks at a time unused but cranks and fires within 20 seconds even after a month of sitting.
 
ATX-E8090_VL_ml.jpg
Airtex E 8090 from Summit racing. Has internal check valve and is flow through.
 
Kern Dog said:
I have Holley carburetors that seem to hold the fuel longer than any ThermoQuad that I have owned. The Demon 850 in my Charger holds fuel awhile too.
I have a 75 Power Wagon with a 440 and a Holley 600. That truck sits for weeks at a time unused but cranks and fires within 20 seconds even after a month of sitting.
Click to expand...
That’s what we’re talking about; using the starter an extra 18secs to fill up the float bowl. If I start mine everyday, it’s like a new FI car; pump once, hit key, wham right now.
 
Deduct 5 points for non-originality, but it works great.


primer bulb.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hopefully the heat won't do a number on the rubber bulb after a while?
 
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