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727 shift points

beanhead

beanhead

May I Land My Kinky Machine
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Hi all. I thought I might have asked this before but I couldn't find it... Anyway my trans shifts good 1-2, but the 2-3 comes in a second too soon. Cable kickdown. Adjustments move both shift points around the rpm range but the timing is the same, too close together. Some have said ditch the lokar yadda yadda and put the huge bouchillion contraption on but I know plenty of folks using my setup on the 'flite with no issues. So, is it in need of an internal adjustment, or...? Thanks for your help!
 
1 gear at 40 mph.. 2nd at 60 mph and 3rd till it cant go anymore.. :D
 
slimt said:
1 gear at 40 mph.. 2nd at 60 mph and 3rd till it cant go anymore.. :D
Click to expand...
Ha! I guess I should have added it seems to be fine under full throttle... it's the tires that become the problem at that point lol!
 
Is your transmission shift lever the correct length verses the carburetor lever "stroke"? Has a shift kit been installed? Are you testing at minimum acceleration on a flat road? Is the whole combination new or just the cable KD?
Mike
 
3.73 gear...the trans levers are factory, the carb is a demon (same lever as the holley in my drawer). No shift kit, flat road, normal acceleration is when I notice it. The space between shifts is what seems off
 
beanhead said:
Hi all. I thought I might have asked this before but I couldn't find it... Anyway my trans shifts good 1-2, but the 2-3 comes in a second too soon. Cable kickdown. Adjustments move both shift points around the rpm range but the timing is the same, too close together. Some have said ditch the lokar yadda yadda and put the huge bouchillion contraption on but I know plenty of folks using my setup on the 'flite with no issues. So, is it in need of an internal adjustment, or...? Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...
It has been my experience with cable shift that the factory shift lever at the trans is not the best for shift point adjustment - it seem a bit too short from the pivot point to the attachment hole for the cable. All levers aren't exactly the same length for 727's as some had rod style linkage for both column and console shifters. I believe you will have to fab up a new shift lever and move the attachment hole about 1/4 inch further out. Then, and only then can you make adjustments in the amount of slack at the carb. Ideally, the suppliers of these cable shift systems should have supplied a shift lever that was slotted so you could move the cable attachment point further out or in towards the pivot center of the shaft as required. Shift points should be around 12-15 mph for first and about 25-28 mph for second on flat ground with medium acceleration. If the prospect of fabing a shift lever for the trany is in any way next to impossible then the attachment point on the carb/efi unit will have to be moved slightly inward towards the pivot point of the throttle blades and then the tension of the cable adjusted.
 
I agree if the levers and linkage or carb has been changed some over the years it can throw it out of good adjustment. Its needs be be right since throttle press adjustment has a big effect on shift points. And of course gov press is the other big factor in shifting. It can also be affected by how many springs are in the front clutch which comes on for third. Normally I would just raise the throttle press a little to raise a shift point but it will also raise the 1-2 shift point and it sounds like you have tried that ? And you have to make sure the trans throttle press rods or cable don't bottom out before full throttle if you raise it any. Ron
 
Yatzee said:
It has been my experience with cable shift that the factory shift lever at the trans is not the best for shift point adjustment - it seem a bit too short from the pivot point to the attachment hole for the cable. All levers aren't exactly the same length for 727's as some had rod style linkage for both column and console shifters. I believe you will have to fab up a new shift lever and move the attachment hole about 1/4 inch further out. Then, and only then can you make adjustments in the amount of slack at the carb. Ideally, the suppliers of these cable shift systems should have supplied a shift lever that was slotted so you could move the cable attachment point further out or in towards the pivot center of the shaft as required. Shift points should be around 12-15 mph for first and about 25-28 mph for second on flat ground with medium acceleration. If the prospect of fabing a shift lever for the trany is in any way next to impossible then the attachment point on the carb/efi unit will have to be moved slightly inward towards the pivot point of the throttle blades and then the tension of the cable adjusted.
Click to expand...
Aha..thank you. I do have a spare lever I can modify to see if that remedies the issue. I'm dropping the exhaust for new header gaskets this weekend so that will free up access..

383man said:
I agree if the levers and linkage or carb has been changed some over the years it can throw it out of good adjustment. Its needs be be right since throttle press adjustment has a big effect on shift points. And of course gov press is the other big factor in shifting. It can also be affected by how many springs are in the front clutch which comes on for third. Normally I would just raise the throttle press a little to raise a shift point but it will also raise the 1-2 shift point and it sounds like you have tried that ? And you have to make sure the trans throttle press rods or cable don't bottom out before full throttle if you raise it any. Ron
Click to expand...
Thanks Ron...the throttle hits full open as the trans cable stops(or a split second before) so we're good there. I've experimented with the cable looser to the point of no kickdown to 2nd under full throttle (which is no good), and tighter, which made the 1-2 come in too soon and I still wasn't happy with it so I'm going to try yatzee's idea..If I still have issues I will then look into the internal stuff you mentioned
 
are you shifting or auto?
you can change the governor weights
Transgo reprogramming kit level 2
 
wyrmrider said:
are you shifting or auto?
you can change the governor weights
Transgo reprogramming kit level 2
Click to expand...
In 'D' is when it does it..more noticeable during normal driving. Thanks for the heads up on the transgo kit!
 
wyrmrider said:
Where in whackforni? I may be able to dig up some weights
Click to expand...
I'm in Clovis (Fresno area). If the kickdown lever mod doesn't fix it I'll let you know..I may have to take you up on that. That is very cool of you thanks for the offer!
 
I have a cabin N of Fresno and will be up there mid July-
do some research on weights and shift points
Back in the day of the Chrysler 300 and Stage x motors weights were readily available - I would think all those part numbers have been D.C.d
you can modify stock weights
somewhere I have a notebook with all that stuff but have moved and I have no Idea where- will keep my eyes open for the next month
cheers
 
Changing the part throttle governor weight will move both shift points.

Question to the OP - do you simple want it to shift higher from 2nd to 3 rd, or do you think there is something wrong or not right? Factory settings is to be in 3rd gear at about 18 mph, and the 2-3 shift is usually pretty quick after 1-2. So what you have is probably no different, or already higher than factory.
 
BSB67 said:
Changing the part throttle governor weight will move both shift points.

Question to the OP - do you simple want it to shift higher from 2nd to 3 rd, or do you think there is something wrong or not right? Factory settings is to be in 3rd gear at about 18 mph, and the 2-3 shift is usually pretty quick after 1-2. So what you have is probably no different, or already higher than factory.
Click to expand...
Ok. I would like a second longer in 2nd gear and it does buck slightly (not bad) on that 2-3 shift. I hardly notice the 1-2 shift except for the RPM sound..if what I have is within spec maybe the shift kit is what I'm after
 
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