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Hot natured 440?

What is your timing set at??
Mallory dual point w/mechanical advance. Built in advance is 21. Shot for 35 degrees full in, at 2800 rpm, initial set at 14 degrees.

From the grill side, start at the top and check slowly, horizontally across the core.
Thanks for that, Dave! Yes, I'll check it all across the board.
Idling in front of the shop, takes 15 minutes, or so to get to temp. That's what I'll do, at first anyway, to get temps from inlet to outlet, to see the difference. Plus all over that radiator. Need to find out what's what!

If one core had already been replaced, on the radiator, guess it's possible the other two were on the way.
 
Here it is...

Radiator inlet 200 degrees, outlet 200 degrees. That's at the ports themselves, not the hoses. Also tested the radiator cores, center 3" down from top, 158, center 158, 3" from bottom 188.

Also checked 4 places on the engine...both valve covers 235, water pump housing 235, crossram manifold 168.

This was after I took a short drive, back to the shop, idling as it sat. Gauge was at halfway, on the wide white band of the scale, not straight up.

So, I'm looking at a radiator. Anyone tried any of the OEMs that Classic offers?? Copper/brass, not aluminum.
 
Mallory dual point w/mechanical advance. Built in advance is 21. Shot for 35 degrees full in, at 2800 rpm, initial set at 14 degrees.


Thanks for that, Dave! Yes, I'll check it all across the board.
Idling in front of the shop, takes 15 minutes, or so to get to temp. That's what I'll do, at first anyway, to get temps from inlet to outlet, to see the difference. Plus all over that radiator. Need to find out what's what!

If one core had already been replaced, on the radiator, guess it's possible the other two were on the way.
You’re running 14 initial with no vacuum advance?
 
You’re running 14 initial with no vacuum advance?
Yes.

Even with my hot issues, engine pulls good, crisp throttle response, no pinging, etc.
I have never used vacuum advance, always mechanical, never any problems.
 
Yes.

Even with my hot issues, engine pulls good, crisp throttle response, no pinging, etc.
I have never used vacuum advance, always mechanical, never any problems.
14 initial is extremely low and is most likely adding quite a bit of heat at idle.
 
How does low initial timing create heat?
The late burn puts a hotter burning charge out the exhaust instead of using that thermal energy to push the piston down. The valves, heads and intake all have to dissipate that heat. Don’t take my word for it, it’s an easy test to perform for yourself in the driveway.
 
Understand that.
Though, 69 model engine, and mine is at 10.025-1 compression, stock initial is at 10 degrees.

Of course, I can't really tell a dang thing, until the radiator straightens it's act up! It's positively a problem...one I didn't expect.
 
Stock initial of 10 degrees was merely for ease of starting. Vacuum advance took it up once the engine was running.
 
Any comments on the radiator temps???

Well, the upper radiator hose near the housing should be close to what the thermostat is (180-195) and the temps should (in a perfect world) get cooler by at least 30-40 degrees on the lower radiator hose before going back into the water pump.

200 degrees top and bottom sounds very odd. If the thermostat was stuck shut, the upper hose will be colder.
 
Any comments on the radiator temps???

Sure. If you have 200* at the inlet and 200* at the outlet, along with 158* 3" below the top and 188* 3" from the bottom, your radiator isn't cooling! As you already said, time for another "professional" rodding or a replacement. I've had a few and I am quite happy with my Griffin. Painted semi-gloss black it looks down right stock!
DSCN0208.JPG
 
Appreciate it, guys.
Upper and lower hoses were a little different, but figured the ports would be more accurate.

Yeah, dammit, pulling it back out. Talked to another shop, hour and a half from me. Looking at a re-core, maybe adding a fourth.
 
Will call the Plano radiator shop today, to see where things are at. Dropped it off Thursday, we deciding to re-try rotting it again.
When I pulled it, flushed it with water, powdered rust came out, flushing it until clear and empty. At the rad shop, carried the damn thing in, set it down, and more liquid rust poured out!

Completely flushed, and drained the block. Only rust seen, powdered in the coolant, block is clean. So, that's where I'm at.
 
Picked up the radiator, yesterday. Looks a heck of a lot cleaner. Should, since it was in his tank 3-4 days. Ole boy told me he couldn't find a damn thing wrong with it, after a good cleaning. Heh, he was wanting to sell me at least one re-core.
Said every tube, in all three cores were 'now' clear, none blocked or pinched off.

So, if it don't rain, I'll mount it, run it, and get some new temps.
Curious question. Much difference in airflow, 6 bladed fan vs a 7 bladed fan, both stock rigid?
 
btw...The Plano shop guy charged me a whopping $65!

Thought about getting a little recourse on the $300, but, me not thinking much on BS, and my short fuse... I'd probably wind up going to jail, over a radiator. Don't think so.
 
Big difference, but more important is the blade pitch.
 
Welp...good and bad. Thanks for the thought, Glenwood! For me, kinda hard to do, being accused of being hard-headed, and all the other good traits I have. Just keep gritting my teeth.

Idling, temp was a lot cooler, at the cores themselves, top to bottom same. Have a 30-35 degree drop in temp, at the engine inlet, so at least it's cooling. Though, on the road, gets a little to warm. Guessing because I just have the restrictor, where thermostat goes.

Hard to believe it's so hard to find something, so simple as a thermostat, around here. Stuck having to order online a Super-Stat.
And, will probably try the other fan, to see if it helps.
 
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