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Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20W-50

The Rebel

The Rebel

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Getting ready to do an oil change.

My shop recommends I use Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20W-50. I drive pretty much on the street but do take it up on the highway sometimes to really open her up!

I'm used to the old change your oil every 3,000 miles but does that apply to this type of oil?

Just wondering what your experience is with this oil.

Thanks in advance!
Roger
 
Last edited:
Worked just fine for me, I read it lacked some stuff normal oil has, like less detergents and such, but I have run it without any problem.
 
Valvoline VR1 is not synthetic, and not intended for long service intervals. Since no details about the engine were provided, I will guess it was recommended for you because of it's higher levels of ZDDP compared to other conventional oils, making it supposedly better for flat tappet camshafts.
 
Bobzilla said:
Valvoline VR1 is not synthetic, and not intended for long service intervals. Since no details about the engine were provided, I will guess it was recommended for you because of it's higher levels of ZDDP compared to other conventional oils, making it supposedly better for flat tappet camshafts.
Click to expand...
They do have a synthetic version at O’Reilly’s, at least they did. I also agree it isn’t made for long service intervals
 
Valvoline VR1 oil is one of several mineral engine oils with a high ZDDP (Zinc) level.
These mineral oils are indeed not for extended services and guess a 3k miles interval is pretty ok. (if not reached in a year, change oil on a yearly basis regardless of milage, preferably after the winter stop.
Also depends a little how and where it is driven, long cruises and steady speeds keeps the oil in a better shape compared to short drives, start/stop and engine not reaching operating temperature every time. (fuel ingression, moist ingression, etc.)
 
I did not even realize they offered a synthetic version. I have no experience with the synthetic version, only the conventional version in different weights.
 
Sorry. Orig. 383 Engine & Purple Cam.

Bobzilla said:
Valvoline VR1 is not synthetic, and not intended for long service intervals. Since no details about the engine were provided, I will guess it was recommended for you because of it's higher levels of ZDDP compared to other conventional oils, making it supposedly better for flat tappet camshafts.
Click to expand...
 
I'm running high zinc; 20/50 cuz it's the only hi-zinc I can find at the local auto store. Where are you guys buying the lower weight oils?
 
For a street car in a 4 climate area 10w30 or 10w40 is fine. These are what the factory recommended. 20w50 is great for a race car in higher temp settings.

@RonH I buy mine on Amazon by the case and usually once a year NAPA will have a sale on it and they will order the viscosity you want for the sale price.
 
The Rebel said:
What are the pros/cons of 20W-50 vs 10W-30?
Click to expand...

20w50 means thicker oil when you start the car in October on a cold morning and 10w30 will oil the top end quicker on that same day and 30 or 40 is plenty on the high temp side in your area.
 
Thanks! I'm used to my regular daily driver oil needs but as wasn't sure what would be best for a 50 year old engine that runs on today's non-leaded fuel.


T2R9 said:
For a street car in a 4 climate area 10w30 or 10w40 is fine. These are what the factory recommended. 20w50 is great for a race car in higher temp settings.

@RonH I buy mine on Amazon by the case and usually once a year NAPA will have a sale on it and they will order the viscosity you want for the sale price.
Click to expand...
 
T2R9 said:
For a street car in a 4 climate area 10w30 or 10w40 is fine. These are what the factory recommended. 20w50 is great for a race car in higher temp settings.

@RonH I buy mine on Amazon by the case and usually once a year NAPA will have a sale on it and they will order the viscosity you want for the sale price.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info!
 
The Rebel said:
What are the pros/cons of 20W-50 vs 10W-30?
Click to expand...

For multi-weight oils, the lower number is the viscosity (thickness) for colder flowing. That is, in CT when its 10 outside, a 10w will flow better than a 20w. The upper number is viscosity (thickness) for normal / higher engine temperatures. Running too thick of oil, like 40 or 50, when a 30 would do, can result in oil not flowing quickly enough into spaces like crank journals. It all depends on what condition your engine is in. If it does burn a little oil, then run a 10w40.

Today's modern engines have tight tolerances, so a 0w-30, 5w30 is common.
 
T2R9 said:
20w50 means thicker oil when you start the car in October on a cold morning and 10w30 will oil the top end quicker on that same day and 30 or 40 is plenty on the high temp side in your area.
Click to expand...
Better said than me.
 
Thanks! Engine runs great, no smoke or smell of oil. Last year replaced rockers, pushrods & lifters. Engine Temp is 170* @ 40 PSI, when I take her out. I use 93 octane.

I noticed that when I start her up that I do get condensation/water sputtering out the exhaust especially after I haven't taken her out for a drive in 24hrs. I attribute that to the cooler temps & wet weather we've had all spring.

rlem1977 said:
For multi-weight oils, the lower number is the viscosity (thickness) for colder flowing. That is, in CT when its 10 outside, a 10w will flow better than a 20w. The upper number is viscosity (thickness) for normal / higher engine temperatures. Running too thick of oil, like 40 or 50, when a 30 would do, can result in oil not flowing quickly enough into spaces like crank journals. It all depends on what condition your engine is in. If it does burn a little oil, then run a 10w40.

Today's modern engines have tight tolerances, so a 0w-30, 5w30 is common.
Click to expand...
 
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