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A833 Removal

powermyster

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Ok guys I have a weep from input shaft on tranny that’s getting worse, been on the to do list for a while now and want to get it done.

I had a quick look under tonight to see what’s involved. Question is, the manual says remove the torsion bars, but it looks like they can stay in place. Do they have to come out??

Second I’ve to fit a left engine mount too, looking at the mounts they are very far forward, Manual mentions a support tool for removal of gearbox. How/where do you guys prop the rear of the engine, I presume it need supporting either from above or below. What the preferred method.

Happy to take any other tips/tricks you have to aid the job. Thanks in advance.
 
No need to remove t bars. If you don't have garage equipment, you can Jack the rear of the engine block near the inspection cover with a bottle Jack.
 
use a 2by 4 between jack and oil pan. you can dent it easy if not careful. no special tool raise 1 side of the engine to change the mount. make sure other mount bolt is loose
 
;These guys are both right, but answering different questions.
1. Transmission
aa. block wheels and lift car about 2-1/2" off the ground & support with 4 jack stands.
a. torsion bars do not have to come out
b. remove console (if equipped)
c. remove shifter & linkage together as one piece. You will see that one linkage/trans bolt won't come out until the trans is lowered a bit.
d. remove driveshaft & shove an extra yoke in the back or you will be wearing gear lube.
e. disconnect reverse light & speedometer cable.
f. remove trans cross member completely (support trans on jack as it's now free)
g. support back of block, at the "ears" on either side of the oil pan (jack stands, wood blocks or whatever is very sturdy. You only really have to do this when the trans is completely out to support the back half of the motor now that I think about it (less stress on motor mounts). Maybe disconnect throttle cable too.
h. lower *** end of trans down about 1 ft., but keep it supported on a jack
I. remove the shifter linkage bolt you couldn't slide out before & remove shifter/linkage as 1-piece
j. use a transmission jack (adapters at autozone for $50 that fit on a normal jack to support trans at this point for sure.
k. loosen/remove all 4 trans/bellhousing bolts
l. slide back trans (you may have to pull on it) & it's free.

Motor mount:
1. AFTER TRANS IS DONE COMPLETELY (maybe leave two trans/trans cross member bolts loose
2. lift one side with board under edge of pan OR lift with cherry picker from an intake or water pump housing/block bolt.
3. WATCH YOUR FINGERS
4. unbolt/replace...pretty simple once you get some clearance.
5. re-bolt everything up & repeat on the other side
 
I built this fixture several years ago to hold up and adjust the engine elevation. If you have torsion bars this works slick. I used scrap I had: 1/2" all thread rod, some flat stock, and a piece of rectangular tubing (shipping crate from my Kubota tractor). There is no reason a piece of 2"x 4" lumber wouldn't substitute for the tubing.
Mike
IMG_1906.JPG
 
Consider any tilting of the engine on components such as shroud, fan, SB distributor, etc. Ya' don't want to be replacing stuff unnecessarily.
 
Thanks guys for all the detailed and quick replies.

I’ll go ahead and drop the oil out and tackle this over the coming days. Glad I don’t have to touch torsion bars
 
It’s out. Some things are best left alone. That was tough going. Had to get the bellhousing off the get the box back far enough.

Anywho here is what I found. Should there be this much play. Looks like someone filled the shaft where the seal sits too



4F1999B8-600C-45ED-93AC-DF1AC162E389.jpeg
 
There should be an oil seal inside the front bearing retainer. Is it there? There also is an oil 'slinger' on the inside of that front bearing. Hopefully that is still in place. The movement is normal for a ball bearing . Once the transmission input shaft is located in the pilot bushing, there is no more movement. BTW, make sure the pilot bushing is in good shape.
 
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