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What do you think is better for Cooling? Lucas Super coolant or Royal Purple ICE

m79ded

m79ded

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I have a 79 Magnum with a 451 TFS 240 10.75 comp and makes just a touch over 600HP. I am very happy but the temps are more than I was used to and more than I'm comfortable with. It has a flowcooler water pump and a 180 stat in After some spirited driving it keeps running around 200 +. It has a 3 core 28" rad that is about 2" wide as compared to the early cars that had rads that are about 3" thick. I wanted to drain rad and add distilled water and a additive. Which do you recommend from the 2 I asked about?
 
red-80204_xl.jpg

This stuff just plain works - BUT it should never be the only thing in there. Antifreeze must also be used in the proper mix as well.
 
No coolant per se is going to fix a cooling system deficiency. The core problem is your engine is making more heat then the cooling system can remove so its inevitably going to loose the battle. Do you have a shroud on the radiator? What type/ size fan? Sometimes these little things can make a big difference.

*Not on your list of choices but id run Evans coolant for the anti corrosive benefits alone never mind the lack of it ever boiling over...
 
I've had the most consistent luck with a very clean radiator and block filled with 50/50, and a well sealed fan shroud. Everything else seems gimmicky.

David
 
I've tried every gimmick and gadget and I think it comes down to one thing, radiator capacity. just get a better radiator and be done with it.
 
The science and engineering for heat exchange has to be right. Typically if a car overheats at highway speeds the radiator doesn't have enough capacity, surface area cooling. If it overheats when idling or low speeds, that is typical of poor airflow. Mechanical fans need a well sealed shroud. Make sure the system is right.
 
rlem1977 said:
The science and engineering for heat exchange has to be right. Typically if a car overheats at highway speeds the radiator doesn't have enough capacity, surface area cooling. If it overheats when idling or low speeds, that is typical of poor airflow. Mechanical fans need a well sealed shroud. Make sure the system is right.
Click to expand...
In a nutshell, this is sound logic.
That being said, the water wetter type chemicals aid cooling by increasing the coolants' ability to shed heat readily - but you still have to have a system capable of shedding said heat, namely surface area in your radiator (fins & rows) and airflow.
 
tmaleck said:
I use Water Wetter in my 442 and it has the anti corrosion additives and says antifreeze not required in warm climates. I just did a post about how this stuff works recently in a different thread: https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/wonder-fluid-or-snake-oil.153007/#post-910973958
Click to expand...
This is true; the product does claim that on the packaging.
I ran it "straight" with distilled water for the latter part of last year and unfortunately, I did see evidence of corrosion in my all-new system, however.
This year, I'm running both a 50/50 mix and the water wetter. Temps remain same as last fall and I have known corrosion protection now.
 
m79ded said:
I have a 79 Magnum with a 451 TFS 240 10.75 comp and makes just a touch over 600HP. I am very happy but the temps are more than I was used to and more than I'm comfortable with. It has a flowcooler water pump and a 180 stat in After some spirited driving it keeps running around 200 +. It has a 3 core 28" rad that is about 2" wide as compared to the early cars that had rads that are about 3" thick. I wanted to drain rad and add distilled water and a additive. Which do you recommend from the 2 I asked about?
Click to expand...
After sported driving? 200*?
Does it come down quickly?
Is the radiator new? If not, does it flow coolant well?
Factor Viscous coupler & fan with factory shroud?
How many pound radiator cap?
 
moparedtn said:
View attachment 614003
This stuff just plain works - BUT it should never be the only thing in there. Antifreeze must also be used in the proper mix as well.
Click to expand...
Well I had the radiator flushed and figured out it needed it. The rad shop said leave the remaining 50/50 that's in your block and put in only distilled water and a bottle of Royal Purple Ice. It took over 2 gallons of distilled water. Let me say that it did the trick. The car on the highway running about 3300rpm and then city driving in traffic just barely past the 1/4 line. Even after i shut it down and left it I was able to remove rad cap without anything blowing out. That seems to have done the trick. That distilled water with Royal Purple works great. I wanted to pass that along so as to help someone else.
 
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