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535 build

Plymouthrocks

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Hi all. Working on a 535 stroker build. It will have trick flow 240 heads 1&7/8 headers ported Holley street dominator intake and quick fuel 1050 carb. What I was wondering was if I could line hone the mains with studs and be ok. Also what brand of piston do you all like and a cam that is not loppy and hopping for 675 horse and torque about the same or better. Thanks for your ideas and time!
 
You can achieve those numbers with a smaller crank, go 505 or 512 from eagle or scat. No clearancing for 4.5” stroke crank and do not have to run special oiling system. My 505 is 700+hp

Eagle rods and crank, mahle pistons, comp 263/270 @.050 108 lsa,
Victor max wedge heads, super victor intake, ferrea valves. Melling HV oil pump milodon 7qt pan.
 
You can achieve those numbers with a smaller crank, go 505 or 512 from eagle or scat. No clearancing for 4.5” stroke crank and do not have to run special oiling system. My 505 is 700+hp

Eagle rods and crank, mahle pistons, comp 263/270 @.050 108 lsa,
Victor max wedge heads, super victor intake, ferrea valves. Melling HV oil pump milodon 7qt pan.
 
Sounds like a real good engine. The thing that will limit my power with 505 is my heads intake and headers all of witch I already have and my thinking a 535 might get me closer to what you have. What you think
 
240 heads will easily make those numbers on a 505, do a you tube search there’s a few dyno videos. Not familiar with that intake but maybe sell it and go for trick flows single plane intake. Trick flow claims 600+ hp on a stock stroke 440 with their top end kit which is the 240 heads, track heat intake and a fairly mild hydraulic roller cam.
 
Yea the intake I got I guess flows 310. Would like to use trick flow intake but won’t work with my 69 RR hood. I’ll check around on you tube and see. Thanks
 
your heads will determine your hp
more inches will give you hp earlier
what's your head flow?
I take it this is a 440 block
large bore block? or stock?
what's your durability goal
this affects the piston ring pack and that influences the pin height and skirt length- work that out
I have no problem with a BBC pin or oil grove part way in the pin hole
that worked out use as long a rod as possible
IMHO the extra stroke work for the 4.5 is not often work it as it compromises the above
Unless there is a package that is too good to be true with that stroke
You do NOT want to get involved with small base circle cams (you are not considering aluminum rods)
Are you thinking of flat tpt solid or hyd or roller hyd or solid?
 
The other thing to think about is the side loading on the cylinder walls and the stress on the factory block with that much stroke. I regret doing my 526" and wish I had stayed with a 4.25" stroke instead of 4.375". I would feel better about the long term prospect of the block surviving.
 
I built a 535 with a stock block for a local guy. We used a weiand six pack tunnel ram intake and made 685hp on the dyno. He’s changed over to a Dominator and Edelbrock intake and is easily well over 700 with that setup. It’s stock caps with a line hone. Keep the tune right and it’ll be fine. He drives the dogsnot out of it. Here’s his timeslip with a crappy 60ft. Once he gets the launch figured out, he’ll be deep in the nines.
0AE8D9F3-737C-45D1-9CBB-87DDF8F45211.jpeg
 
BTW, I dyno’d it on 91 octane pump gas (the crappy ethanol blended pump junk,lol) and it’ll cruise on 87 all day long.
 
I built a 535 with a stock block for a local guy. We used a weiand six pack tunnel ram intake and made 685hp on the dyno. He’s changed over to a Dominator and Edelbrock intake and is easily well over 700 with that setup. It’s stock caps with a line hone. Keep the tune right and it’ll be fine. He drives the dogsnot out of it. Here’s his timeslip with a crappy 60ft. Once he gets the launch figured out, he’ll be deep in the nines.
View attachment 614770

Refresh us on that build, that was a bad hombre.
 
Refresh us on that build, that was a bad hombre.
TFS 240 heads, Molnar 4.500 Crank and Molnar H-beam rods, Diamond pistons 10.8CR, big Comp Hydraulic roller cam, Morel Hyd roller lifters. Stock block, 2” primary headers. Pump gas. It made nearly 700ft/lbs of torque and never went below 600 all through out the pull.
 
The 270 heads weren’t out yet or we would have used those.
 
Wow! I would like to stick with a mec. Flat tapper if I could to save on upper as I have new comp 1.5 roller lifters and some stronger springs too. Don’t have their numbers with me. What cam should I use so as a not a thumper. ?
 
The other thing to think about is the side loading on the cylinder walls and the stress on the factory block with that much stroke. I regret doing my 526" and wish I had stayed with a 4.25" stroke instead of 4.375". I would feel better about the long term prospect of the block surviving.

Exactly- that's why I discouraged even a 4.5 inch stroke and recommended a longer rod which also allows a longer skirt for decreased side loading
OP get your compression and head flows nailed down before you start thinking about cams
Note the use of one of 2" headers- may work just as good and easier fit
you need your stroke and rod and rod ratio b4 cam
 
Exactly- that's why I discouraged even a 4.5 inch stroke and recommended a longer rod which also allows a longer skirt for decreased side loadingQUOTE] I completely agree. I made sure to run a 7.100 rod to give me the best chance of not breaking things. I am also very conservative on the tune. I'd rather lose a little ET but save a lot of money on broken parts.
 
Hell, I used 6.800 rods in the one I built so I could keep a decently long CH so I wouldn’t have oil ring support rails and a pancake piston that won’t keep the rings sealed. Don’t overthink it.
 
There are well thought out packages available
some for cost
some for short term performance
few for long term performance- boat market is small for Hemi unfortuatly
 
When you can make 700-hp (or more) following AndyF's advice with only 470ci, there isn't really a need to go any bigger with a factory block. The only thing that extra stroke is doing is placing unnecessary stress on the drivetrain and cylinder walls. If it's a street car, I would leave wide range of error to be had without adverse affects, like running a conservative CR, timing, and paying close attention to coolant / intake air temps (general engine operating temps as it can affect detonation resistance and required octane). Tons of SBM guys running much faster than we do, with a lot less displacement.
 
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