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Aftermarket radio settings question

JG1966

JG1966

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I just installed a Retrosound stereo in my 72 RR. All is good. Fit and sounds real nice (thanks to Jerry Landes in Texas for his 4×10 front adapter)! My question is I have been in the habit of always disconnecting my battery terminal when car is idle for days or weeks (or when I work on anything electrical). I do this to lessen any chance of fire on this old girl.
How do I do this and still keep my settings on stereo? Do those "memory savers" work or are they only good for a couple hours? Any advice would be great. Thanks.
 
I have a trunk located battery with a master kill switch in the trunk, the clock (yellow) stereo wire is connected to the battery side of the switch then fused. You might find a handy location under your hood to mount a switch or buy a battery terminal that let's you disconnect the main battery feed without pulling the clock wire. Like this?? I personally like the switches because it's a simple flip of a switch.

Screenshot_20180614-153502.png
 
Last edited:
I have one too and it was in the shop for awhile with the battery disconnected,got it back and I thought I would have to reset everything but didn’t have to. It took awhile for the Bluetooth to reconnect but it did.
 
JG1966 said:
Thanks Dave. That's perfect. I never knew battery disconnects kept any power going to interior.
Click to expand...
It's all in how you wire it, run a new clock wire with inline fuse directly to the post so it stays connected when everything else is disconnected.
 
747mopar said:
It's all in how you wire it, run a new clock wire with inline fuse directly to the post so it stays connected when everything else is disconnected.
Click to expand...
Thanks 747. The part description for the above link says ..."Includes 15 amp fused bypass to maintain computer settings, radio, clock etc. while the battery is disconnected." Not sure if that means a new yellow wire still needs to be run directly to post. Sure doesn't sound like it.
 
JG1966 said:
Thanks 747. The part description for the above link says ..."Includes 15 amp fused bypass to maintain computer settings, radio, clock etc. while the battery is disconnected." Not sure if that means a new yellow wire still needs to be run directly to post. Sure doesn't sound like it.
Click to expand...
You said in your original post that you disconnect the battery to lesson the chance of a fire, that to me means you want the electrical system dead? If that's the case then yes you need to run the clock wire all the way to the bypass fuse so it's the only thing not being killed. Fires are more often caused by the circuits not the large feeds like the starter, alternator, etc. Very quick and easy to do, just find the yellow clock wire and neatly route it with the existing harness to the battery.
 
747mopar said:
You said in your original post that you disconnect the battery to lesson the chance of a fire, that to me means you want the electrical system dead? If that's the case then yes you need to run the clock wire all the way to the bypass fuse so it's the only thing not being killed. Fires are more often caused by the circuits not the large feeds like the starter, alternator, etc. Very quick and easy to do, just find the yellow clock wire and neatly route it with the existing harness to the battery.
Click to expand...
747mopar said:
You said in your original post that you disconnect the battery to lesson the chance of a fire, that to me means you want the electrical system dead? If that's the case then yes you need to run the clock wire all the way to the bypass fuse so it's the only thing not being killed. Fires are more often caused by the circuits not the large feeds like the starter, alternator, etc. Very quick and easy to do, just find the yellow clock wire and neatly route it with the existing harness to the battery.
Click to expand...
Thanks 747. You are right, and I will do that. It is quick and easy. I would connect yellow clock wire closer to firewall (after the fuse) not the battery terminal post side (before the fuse). Correct?
 
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Yes, if you look at the picture I posted you'll run the clock wire directly to the fuse that's bolted to the battery post clamp bolt. Pull the main battery wire and the clock stays powered. Mine has sat for months during the winter and I've never had to charge it.
 
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