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Calipers sticking intermittently

machelis

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8:03 PM
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So here's how my day went:

Today was the inspection date for my '67 satellite. The inspection station is only about 16kms from my place, but about 7kms into my drive the car started slowing down and the wheels started smoking. My front calipers seized. I changed them two days ago. Fresh fluid throughout the car. I called a tow truck and called to cancel my appointment, but about 20 minutes later I tried moving the car for fun and everything was free and working just fine. Cancelled the tow and drove home. When I got home the rear drivers drum stunk like it was dragging too.

I had the same problem a few days ago putzing around the block, but all four wheels were stuck. And when I took the drums off, the cylinders kept pushing the pistons out like it still had pressure.

Could this be a distribution valve issue? I changed the master last year, but it sat in the garage since then.

I've been searching online, but I can't find anything identical.

Any ideas or help are appreciated.
 
I had something similar in a minivan it was believed to be contamination in the fluid.
I think the previous owner 'topped it off" with something other than brake fluid.
Had to change everything.
I suspect the master cylinder first given what you've described.
 
Usually when this happens collapsed or bad rubber hoses. They breakdown inside and fluid goes to cylinders / calipers and slow return.
 
If the master cylinder push rod does not come all the way back so piston touches snapring it will cause that
Try pushing the piston back on the caliper and see if fluid flows back to master
 
Usually when this happens collapsed or bad rubber hoses. They breakdown inside and fluid goes to cylinders / calipers and slow return.
Yes but he has had it on every wheel it sounds like, and if it has calipers on the front then they would have newer hoses. So that points to the master I think
 
Absolutely. Check the fluid in the mastercylinder, if it has the consistency of oil in the bottom of the reservoir, it is contaminated and you must replace all brake system items containing any rubber. Like master cylinder piston seals, caliper piston sealing rings, wheel cylinder cups, rubber brake lines, in other words a complete brake system overhaul. Also as mentioned if the brake hoses were pinched to keep fluid from leaking out during the caliper replacement, they may be internally damaged and need replacement. To test, jack up front of car, use jackstands and wheel chocks. Start the engine in park, apply brakes a few times, have someone try to rotate the front wheels manually with your foot off of the brake pedal. If you have a wheel dragging, use a bleeder wrench and open the brake lines at the caliper and if the brake releases, you have found the problem. You should be using DOT 3 fluid from a sealed container. This is the normal practice for any brake service requiring the addition of any brake fluid. I have had a few vehicles towed in with dragging brakes which were recently serviced at a quick oil change business and in all cases it was found that power steering fluid had been added to the brake fluid by accident. Check You-tube videos for service help
 
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Yes but he has had it on every wheel it sounds like, and if it has calipers on the front then they would have newer hoses. So that points to the master I think
Don't disagree could be master.
 
I got a good idea what to do now. I'll try pushing the pistons from the calipers back before I change the rubber brake lines to see if the m/c goes back. The fluid may have been old and contaminated though. I'll toss the rest and buy a fresh bottle. If all that doesn't work, I'll get a new m/c.

Thanks guys.
 
Loosen the master to check if rod needs to be shortened as this was an add on system
and may need a spacer
 
Would washers be ample? Or is there a plastic or machined adapter available?
 
Would washers be ample? Or is there a plastic or machined adapter available?
It's not clear what you want to do? Space out m/c?
Does your car have power brakes? Some p/b push rods are adjustable a little.

Edit: Spacing m/c as a temporary test be REAL careful, make sure you have threads to do it. You can test without moving car, just pump the brakes 10/20 times ( with car running if you have pb) they should be locked if it's the hoses.
 
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The car does have power discs up front. When the fronts brakes were stuck, the pedal was solid. It wouldn't move at all. Then when it had a lottle movement, I knew it was back to normal.

I do recall having an issue getting the new m/c on the car last year. It felt like it needed a lot of force to bolt it to the booster. And there was adjustment to the rod. So I'll take it off and shorten the rod then bleed it all again.
 
You have the piston pushed in blocking the return of fluid
Your pedal geometry is incorrect
Spacing the master out until you can push fluid back
Then shorten rod or space master or booster to allow the fluid to return
When it gets hot the fluid expands and locks up the brakes
It could also be oil in master that caused the cups to swell
It is a process of elimination
 
So I finally got a chance to dive into the brakes and it was in fact the pushrod length. I didn't have to bleed the old fluid and it stops really well. It actually passed inspection today, which is great news considering how stressed I was trying to make sure everything was done properly and safe.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
Sounds like a couple celebratory burn outs are in order...
 
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