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535 build

When you can make 700-hp (or more) following AndyF's advice with only 470ci, there isn't really a need to go any bigger with a factory block. The only thing that extra stroke is doing is placing unnecessary stress on the drivetrain and cylinder walls. If it's a street car, I would leave wide range of error to be had without adverse affects, like running a conservative CR, timing, and paying close attention to coolant / intake air temps (general engine operating temps as it can affect detonation resistance and required octane). Tons of SBM guys running much faster than we do, with a lot less displacement.
That 470 build is impressive but find his dyno sheet and look at peak torque and the rpm it’s at. (I couldn’t find one) it may be 750hp but if the peak torque is lower and at a higher rpm, it’s gonna be a pig in a street car unless you spin the rpm. Hell, the OP wants a street car, not 4.56 gears and 7500rpm. This guy is screaming for a high torque, big cube engine. And who builds a street car with a dry sump? (Well, besides me...) There’s nothing quite like a 4.500 stroke engine with a huge, nearly level torque curve, on the street. With the right converter that 470 will probably be faster on the strip, but that 270 headed 535 will be king on the street and won’t break a sweat doing it. (Assuming this guy doesn’t under cam it) There’s way worse combos running around successfully than the 4.500 stroke BBM like big stroker BBCs with the pistons hanging half out of the bores at BDC. This side loading stuff might be an issue if the thrust side of the bore is .120 but then who’d build a stroker out of that? Mopar myths drive me nuts. This is one of em.
 
That 470 build is impressive but find his dyno sheet and look at peak torque and the rpm it’s at. (I couldn’t find one) it may be 750hp but if the peak torque is lower and at a higher rpm, it’s gonna be a pig in a street car unless you spin the rpm. Hell, the OP wants a street car, not 4.56 gears and 7500rpm. This guy is screaming for a high torque, big cube engine. And who builds a street car with a dry sump? (Well, besides me...) There’s nothing quite like a 4.500 stroke engine with a huge, nearly level torque curve, on the street. With the right converter that 470 will probably be faster on the strip, but that 270 headed 535 will be king on the street and won’t break a sweat doing it. (Assuming this guy doesn’t under cam it) There’s way worse combos running around successfully than the 4.500 stroke BBM like big stroker BBCs with the pistons hanging half out of the bores at BDC. This side loading stuff might be an issue if the thrust side of the bore is .120 but then who’d build a stroker out of that? Mopar myths drive me nuts. This is one of em.
Does a 535 require a dry sump system?
 
Does a 535 require a dry sump system?
No. In fact, a couple of hours on the brideport and I can put an internal pickup wet sump pan on it. The TF240 headed 535 I built used a Milodon pan with external oil pickup just because he already had it.
 
No. In fact, a couple of hours on the brideport and I can put an internal pickup wet sump pan on it. The TF240 headed 535 I built used a Milodon pan with external oil pickup just because he already had it.
Thanks, I was debating going with a 535 kit when I built my stroker but I thought it had to be a dry sump and I already had the milodon wet sump pan so I went with the 505. I should’ve asked you guys before hand.
 
Thanks, I was debating going with a 535 kit when I built my stroker but I thought it had to be a dry sump and I already had the milodon wet sump pan so I went with the 505. I should’ve asked you guys before hand.
I run 2.200 rod journals then clearance the pickup boss as well as re-angle it slightly while cutting it to 1/2” npt.
 
Okay I'd like to step in on this please which is better a 5:40 or 5:35 I mean I know it's only 5 cubic inches more but cuz I'm thinking about putting a 5:40 together for my car with 270 heads on it
 
I talk to somebody which is on this website Brewzer 67 about 270 heads after talking to him I'm convinced that's what I'm putting on my motor
 
I talk to somebody which is on this website Brewzer 67 about 270 heads after talking to him I'm convinced that's what I'm putting on my motor

Depends on what you wanna do. A -1 Head is still a better choice for all out effort
 
I'm looking at the point it's a 10 and a half to 1 compression motor should I be able to drive my God damn car I can't really drive it now cost to freaking much

Right, I’ve been building all my stuff for pump gas so I understand. 540 is still big enough for a 325 indy. Either those or the 270’s will work.
 
No reason to go anything past the TF 270's with a factory block.
I agree completely. As it sits now even with just the 270's as ported, I am probably pushing the limits of the block. I will just make sure to always keep my tune conservative so I don't have to worry about detonation and cap walk.
 
No reason to go anything past the TF 270's with a factory block.
Since my engine projects going to start next winter which turns out perfect Bulldog will have the new aftermarket block out by then that's going to be my starting point right there
 
No matter which block
stock block minimum overbore and some premium block short fill
pump gas friendly
best combustion chamber
tight quench
light pistons and rod small end
which means long rods (while keeping ring pack reasonable)
which means keep block tall
center counterweights?
detonation sensors?
EFI?
aftermarket block- raised cam, large cam bearings for large base circle
if roller large base circle, large dia lifters, large wheel
large pushrods- (they are long)
dual large oil pickups
 
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