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Master cylinder and proportioning valve disc brake conversion

Well I know my rear line is stainless and the other ones I can just make myself but I might do it in Copper that might look pretty good
 
Just wait until tomorrow I'll post pictures of the area I get to work in and do this this is going to be really fun because I can't cut the roll bar out of the way I can't move this I can't move that this is great
 
Nickel copper tube doesn't look like copper. It is much easier to bend and to flare and is much more corrosion resistant than steel.
 
Disc front, drum rear---doesn't have to be so complicated. I plumbed the rear reservoir to the front disc brakes, the front reservoir to the rear drum brakes, mechanical brake light switch on the brake pedal . Thought I would try it without a proportioning valve, thinking I could always put an adjustable one in later. Don't need it. brake bias could not be better. Maybe I just had the right combination............MO
 
It is a little late now but when I did my 69 RR 4 wheel disc I just gutted the factory Combination Valve and turned it into a Distribution Block and added a Proportioning Valve a foot back for the rear brakes mounted where the factory one would have been mounted on a DB car and used all repop stainless lines.
 
This is the nickel copper line with a new rear axle line I made for my '55 Plymouth.
Plaza brake line.jpg
 
Okay started this little disc brake conversion here tonight I'm going to have to reposition this proportioning valve in that other little valve cuz that's not going to fit by my headers no way no how nor the brake lines going to be able to go into it either so time to make some brake lines and the nice thing is I got all weekend to do it.
 
Okay all the brake lines are ran to the proportioning valve and that little valve we're all good to go now looking at my master cylinder my old master cylinder has studs in it my new one doesn't do I got to pop the studs out of the old one and put them in the new one or should I just run bolts instead
 
Okay all the brake lines are ran to the proportioning valve and that little valve we're all good to go now looking at my master cylinder my old master cylinder has studs in it my new one doesn't do I got to pop the studs out of the old one and put them in the new one or should I just run bolts instead
20180626_184959_Film1.jpg
20180626_184959_Film1.jpg
 
Okay all the brake lines are ran to the proportioning valve and that little valve we're all good to go now looking at my master cylinder my old master cylinder has studs in it my new one doesn't do I got to pop the studs out of the old one and put them in the new one or should I just run bolts instead
At least for ease of assembly, I would think you should have studs on the MC or the firewall. Trying to fish bolts through both the firewall and the MC while trying to get nuts started doesn't sound like fun.
 
When I swapped out my master cylinder, the studs from the old one were too small for the new master. I used grade 8 bolts with stop nuts and lock washers. Had a buddy helping so i just held the bolt with a wrench from under the dash and he tightened with a ratchet from the engine compartment.
 
Looking at the 70 and 71 Service manual would help you out a lot. Fixed calipers like original on a 69 B with disc brakes only had a distribution block and the Rear proportioner. When they went to the KH floating calipers you gained the front Metering Valve(or hold off) which controlled when front brakes came on in light braking.

Later MOPAR combined stuff. Brake Line kits are made with all the appropriate lines to mimic the OEM setup.
 
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