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Replacing Torsion bar rear crossmember

mutt71

Expect nothing and you will never be disappointed.
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Apr 26, 2015
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Location
Clarksville, TN
The rear cross member in my 1969 Satellite is rusted badly. I have purchased a replacement from (gulp) AMD. I do not have the ability (I am disabled) nor the knowledge to do this job. Based on past use of AMD parts, I hope that this will not result in a nightmare. My question is this, is there any specific type of shop that I should be taking this too? I really don't know. Any help or direction would be very much appreciated.

I also figure that I should replace the Torsion Bars as well at this time, so any recommendations there would also be appreciated. The engine is a 318.
 
Bad news... I've never done the job. Good news....even for AMD, the torsion bar back brace/holder should be close enough to factory + you won't be able to see it anyway. I'm "guessing" you'd have to put the car in a jig (support the frame), remove the t-bars, cut/weld in the new AMD piece & replace the t-bars. My gut instinct is that you need a "frame shop" for the heavy welding, followed by an alignment shop once you re-set your front end height with the new t-bars. I'm sure others here know better than I do.
 
Any restoration shops in your area,I'd check there,or as stated a good frame shop.
Some body shops can handle this if they have
a good reputation.
 
I just came from a Specialty shop and was quoted $2300.00 for this job. Does that sound about right? I'd love to find another shop that does this kind of work and get another quote for comparison. Problem is, there isn't one around here.
 
I don't think it's way off if you say 23 hours at $100/hr as a quick number check.
 
Dang, if you were closer I would do it for food and booze!

It is spot welded on the sides to the inner rockers, up front to the front frame rails and up top to the floor pan. I would say at minimum the front interior has to come out to access the floor pan welds. Bracing of the front rails and between the rockers before it is cut out. I can see this being a 15 to 20 hour job. Cutting the old one out with minimal damage to the rest of the vehicle seems like it would be the hard part.
 
I put a torsion bar crossmember in my 68 Charger last year. I bought an AMD piece and once I started fitting it up I came to the conclusion that it would have needed a lot of work to fit correctly. I ended up returning it and found a nice original crossmember that dropped right in...
 
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