SOLD 67 Plymouth GTX 440HP Automatic - Factory PS, PB and AC

The Basics:

This 1967 GTX is one of the 11,330 real GTX’s made in 1967 with RS VIN Code. Black on black. Rare combination of factory power steering, power brakes and air conditioning. Always a Florida car. Frame is 100% solid. Bucket seats with factory console, tachometer and remote driver side mirror. Original 440 cubic inch 375 horsepower HP engine with factory exhaust manifolds and dual snorkel air cleaner. Original torqueflight 727 three speed automatic transmission professionally rebuilt to stock factory specs in 2018. All under hood AC parts new from Classic Air in Tampa, FL. Factory AC compressor replaced with more efficient modern Sandin compressor that requires less horsepower from to operate. Air conditioning converted to readily available R-134. Factory three speed wipers. New wiper motor, fuel pump, master cylinder and power brake booster. Power steering pump rebuilt. New rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders. Auxiliary electric fuel pump for immediate starting after sitting for a few days.

Exterior:

New professional body shop base coat clear coat paint in 2017. Front and rear bumpers replated by Spacecoast Plating. Headlight bezels redone by King of Trim. Front and rear window and drip rail stainless polished. New windshield. All other glass excellent. New parking light lenses and taillight lenses. New taillight bezels, trunk panel, locks, door handles, hood ornament, hood edge trim, front fender and trunk lid emblems, sail panel chrome, hood scoop bezels, gas cap and antennae. New 15 by 7 Magnum 500 wheels . P205-60R15 front tires and P235-60R15 rears tires with BF Goodrich Radial TA’s with 80 percent tread.

Interior:

New Legendary front and rear foams and seats, headliner, carpet , door panels and visors. Dash and seat bases powder coated. New gauge bezel, gauge bezel lens and glove box door. New glove box cardboard. New armrests and armrest bases. New front and rear ashtrays. New console lights and lenses and dome light lens. Under dash heat and AC box rebuilt by Classic Air in Tampa. FL.

Electronics:

New dash under dash, AC, headlight and taillight wiring harnesses. Everything works as it should including all lights and gauges down to the cigarette lighter. Factory AM radio upgraded internally to AM/FM four channel stereo with retaining look of original radio. Dual cone speaker center mounted in factory dash location and twin rear speakers in factory location under package shelf. Nothing in dash, rear deck or door panels has been cut and everything retains factory appearance.

Underside:

New fuel tank, brake lines, transmission cooling lines and emergency brake cables. New correct date coded Mopar radiator by Glen-ray. New shocks and rear springs. Underside painted flat black, rust free and very clean.

Documentation:

Have original build punch card with option decoding letter from Chrysler Historical Society and Certicard as well as 1967 GTX owner’s manual, 1967 Plymouth product line sales brochure, printed shop manual parts manual on CD and color coded laminated wiring diagram. Car was once a magazine cover and centerfold car. Magazine copy is included.

Summary-

I am 67 years old and this car was a retirement project. I started with a pretty solid car and spent five years getting to my goal of a car that looked and drove like 1967 all over again. 1967 was the year I was able to get my driver’s license and the 67 GTX was my dream car. The car starts immediately, even after sitting for 10 days, idles smoothly and runs and drives excellent. It has plenty of power on tap and the transmission upshifts and kicks down flawlessly. The front end is smooth and vibration free and the car has no rattles. I have always had a passion for cars that maintain the original appearance and this one does just that. The entire interior was insulated with Second Skin under the carpet for sound deadening and insulation. Insulation was added to roof before installing headliner. The AC blows instantly cold. The 66K miles on the odometer is believed to be original, but no verification of that is available or claimed. Car cover in storage bag is included.

PM me with any questions or for additional photos of something I missed.

Don

67GTX440

Asking $33,500

Link to 60+ photos:

http://s700.photobucket.com/user/grover1951/slideshow/67GTXApril2018

Walk around video.



Driving video.

Great job!

How long did it take to get it to where it is today?
Just curious.

I'm not in the market, as I still have my beast deep in the resto process.

Best wishes!

About five and a half years total. That included 25 month tied up in the paint shop before they finished it in 2017.

How much body work was done, metal replaced ? Original engine and trans I assume ?
Not a factory black car though. GG1 is dark green

The build sheet shows the car as originally dark green metallic with a black vinyl top. The prior owner changed it to his preference of factory Mopar black with no vinyl top when he restored it in the mid 90's. An engine out paint was done at that time of the entire engine compartment, trunk, interior, door jams, trunk and underside. The interior has always been black. Engine and transmission are both original. The engine and transmission were both rebuilt by Marvin Hughes in the mid 90's, the famed hemi rebuilder outside of Ocala, FL at that time. I had the original transmission rebuilt to factory specs by a classic car restoration shop in 2018. Watch Marvin Hughes Mopar 1984 video below for a video of Hughes shop and some amazing old Mopars. (I love seeing a 67 GTX Hemi convertible with a trailer hitch!) The magazine cover article on the car is dated April of 97 and shows the car black and no vinyl top and running Keystone wheels.

I had full length quarter panel bottoms and front floor pans put in the car when I had it painted. The quarter panels were not rusty, but the inside lips of the rear wells had been shaved at some point to accommodate eight inch wheels. The trunk and frame were completely solid. The front pans had some pin holes from windshield corner leaks at some time in the past. Entire entire inside and trunk was painted with POR15 and Second Skin was added to the entire passenger compartment for sound deadening. Insulation was also added before the headliner was installed. The car has never been outside of FL and never exposed to road salt. This is why the underside is so solid.



Below is a picture of the car from the centerfold of American Classic magazine in April of 1997. The prior owner had just finished the mid-90's restoration that included the rebuild of the original engine and transmission by Marvin Hughes, new legendary seats, removal of the factory black vinyl top and paint. I believe the car was seen by the person who wrote the article at the paint shop when it was just being finished up. He asked the owner if he could take pictures of the car an interview him for the magazine article, and the article appeared in print a year later. I bought the car in 2012 from the prior owner who was in his mid-70's and had owned the car for some 25 years. I love those old school Keystones.



I noticed this car being sold by RK Classics in Charleston faced the same question as the original owner of my car when restoring. Should I paint it the original dark green metallic, or change the color? They chose to change it to black even on a 20,000 mile 67 Hemi GTX. Paint colors make a big difference resale price, and dark green metallic is not a high demand color. I learned this lesson on the first maroon car I ever bought come resale time. I doubt there were many dark green metallic cars repainted in the same color. It is unusual to see a color change on such a rare high dollar car as this low mileage Hemi GTX unless the restorer just wants it done to their taste or feels the color change will help the value more than the color change will hurt the value.

"And with the body solid, high quality DuPont aircraft primer laid a smooth foundation for glossy Black 2-stage that's infinitely more attractive than the car's original green hue."

https://www.rkmotors.com/vehicles/2821/1967-plymouth-gtx

I was surprised that the restorer of the car for sale at RK Motors changed the fender tag to reflect a BB1 paint code. That may be going a bit too far in my book. Paint it whatever color you like, but don't try to change the car's history.

Aus70RR said:

Just beautiful and love the license plate too

Click to expand...

Joe Dirt was the consummate Mopar man and a true Mopar loyalist. Dirt's devotion to Lynyrd Skynyrd and the fact that the band originated in Jacksonville, FL and is a Jacksonville ikon, is the reason for the Skynyrd sticker on the rear glass.

I should be trying to sell the car to David Spade since he spent 900K on his Hemi Daytona. This would make him a great driver!



David Spade has a movie history with the 67 GTX, although both the movies cars were fake GTX's.

I keep remembering things I replaced and did not list.

All console chrome
Door hinge pins
Steering wheel (replaced with Mopar reproduction)
Oil pan gasket
Motor mounts
Valve cover gaskets
Differential seal
Sway bar bushings
New 7 inch spare tire wheel and matching BF Goodrich Radial TA
Powder coated jack, base and handle
Mufflers - Magnaflows (pretty quiet cruising and a nice sound on acceleration)
Leaf springs and all related mounting hardware.
Dash pad
Horn ring, AC vents, radio bezel, visor mounts and coat hanger hook rechromed
Window sweeps (fuzzies)
Trunk seal
All door seals and rubber
New front and rear windshield seals
Replaced wiper blades with NOS blades
New front and rear seat belts
New panel between back seat and trunk
Mopar +1 quart transmission pan with drain plug

I am pretty certain the first serious buyer who actually lays eyes on this car and drives it will buy it. It needs nothing, zero, NADA. It is done and well sorted out.

Here are a few more underside photos from a lift.

Documentation regarding determining if a car is a real GTX and has original engine and transmission:

All real GTX's have a VIN beginning with RS. The VIN on this car is RS23L77109029.

The engine assembly stamping shows C 440 HP on the top of the engine block under the AC compressor. The C indicates 1967 model year, and the 440 HP indicates this is a 440 high performance engine. The engine assembly date is 8/31/66 and the ship date from the factory from the Chrysler Historical Society is 9/13/66. This indicates the engine was assembled just prior to the car being built.

The transmission numbers are H2801541 and 8350656. The first number is the correct transmission ID for a Plymouth 67-68 B-440 H/Per. This transmission was only built for those two model years. The first part of second number is the 10,000 day Mopar date code and appears to be missing the first digit 1 as many seem to be. 1835 would equate to 8/6/66 which would correspond with the engine build date and car shipping date. The last four numbers 0656 are supposed to indicate transmission build sequence. This would indicate it was a Plymouth 67-68 early build.

There is no such thing as a "numbers matching" engine and transmission in a 67 GTX as there was no portion of the VIN number stamped into either the engine block or transmission by Chrysler at that time. Date correct is as good as it gets for a 67 GTX and all the dates on the engine and transmission are consistent with the date of manufacture.

Lots of interest from the Autotrader Classics ad, but from Vancouver, BC, Alaska, Chicago, Maryland, North Carolina, South Florida etc., but not anyone close enough to come see it as yet. I have two classic car dealers locally who have said they would drive the car, give an impartial description and mechanical evaluation and current market evaluation for $250 or so. I will work with a shipper of your choosing. I would be glad to have any B body member close by look at it for a potential buyer as well. Ed-pv is the only local member who has actually seen the car, as he has been to my house twice buying parts. He recently added a 67 GTX to his own Mopar collection.

Price drop to $31,900, here and on Autotrader Classics. NADA values it at $37,800 with the factory AC and Haggerty puts it at $34,900.

Posted on Craigslist to see if it attracts more local buyers. I hope I don't regret this, but I do think if a qualified and truly interested buyer looks at the car, it will be gone. Unfortunately, Craigslist attracts a lot of both unqualified buyers and scammers.

https://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/d/1967-real-plymouth-gtx-440/6675417655.html

I finally got someone to come look at the car. I spent several hours talking to him on the phone and he drove 9 hours from Mississippi. I thought the first person to see the car would buy it, but it was not what he was looking for. I asked him if he felt the car was misrepresented in any way in the ad or in our conversations and he said "no". I asked him for feedback that might keep someone else from driving a long distance or buying a plane ticket to come see it and he provided the following:

1. The car runs and drives amazingly well. The front end is smooth, it shifts flawlessly and the AC blows cold. It has the nicest dash and interior of any 67 GTX I have ever seen.

(I agree with him 100%)

2. The door, trunk and hood gaps are not perfect. They are not bad, but they could be better, particularly the passenger door top where it meets the fender.

(I don't think the car has ever had any panels "worked" to improve on factory gaps, so they appear to be more like original factory gaps. They are not bad, but I agree that the gap at the top of the passenger door where it meets the fender is closer than it should be.)

3. The paint is not 100% perfect on close inspection from 2 feet and there were some very tiny bumps on the roof and dots of polishing compound residue in spots. The car looks amazing standing back and looking at it. There is a spot on in the passenger door door jam by the aluminum sill that is about 1 inch by 12 inches and another in the trunk valley about 1 inch by 8 inches where the paint peeled after painting. These were touched up with gloss black spray paint and are not perfect. They were not clear coated. The engine compartment is flat black as opposed to the gloss black exterior color. He asked if the car had been painted with the exterior emblems on since the faces of the emblems are chrome and the edges are black.

(The paint job is a 4K all exterior parts off pro body shop paint. It is not a "do it myself" and the guy has painted cars for a living for 12 years. It is by no means a 12K show quality paint job and was never said to be. I touched up the spot in the passenger door jam and the trunk sill with gloss black spray paint and they are not very noticeable, but the paint is not perfect. Neither is visable from the exterior of the car without the passenger door or trunk lid open. Both could be fixed perfectly with a rattle can of factory matching paint and a can of clear coat. Any minute dots of polishing compound residue will come off. I am guessing the previous owner knew he was going to paint the car something other than dark green metallic when he started to restore it in the mid 90's. He had the engine and transmission rebuilt and most likely had the engine bay painted flat black while the engine was out so that any final exterior color would work with it. The emblems are chromes and them blacked out on the edges from the factory. All chrome and trim was removed for the paint.

4. The grill is not off a 67 GTX since it is not blacked out and must be off a Satellite or Belvedere.

(I looked at the 67 sales brochure and all Belvedere I, Belvedere II, Satellite and GTX grills all appeared to be blacked out in the center. The GTX and Satellite have the center bar with the tri-color emblem and the Belvederes do not. I talked to Pops on this site as he has a survivor 67 GTX and he said the grill fins were aluminum facing the front vertical surfaces and blacked out on the horizontal surfaces. As the grills on all models look the same new, I assume the blacked out portion of the grill had sun baked to where it is not pretty much all bare aluminum. It probably needs to be taped off and repainted black where needed to have the original look.)

5. The gas filler bezel should be chromed rather than a gray finish, the door sills should be a highly polished aluminum and the windshield wipers would look better chromed.

(The gas cap bezel is a different finish from the factory, the door sills are a shiney, but not mirror polished aluminum and I have never seen a 67 GTX with chrome windshield wipers.)

6. The car may have a minor exhaust leak on the left side.

(I had not noticed this, but listened through a rubber hose to magnify the sound and think he may be right. It sounds like the driver side gasket between the exhaust manifold and the down pipe. I am taking it to the exhaust shop to diagnose and fix as necessary tomorrow.)

7. Some of the exterior trim is not 100% flush with the body.

(The wheel lip opening chrome is aftermarket and is close to factory, but probably not perfect. I doubt that the rear wheel well openings on the lower quarter panel patch panels are perfect either. The side sills install with plastic clips that go into holes in the body and ave no adjustment. Factory may have been better, but not much better.)

The guy spent 2 and 1/2 hours looking at and driving the car and pretty much went over every square inch. I felt bad that he had driven 9 hours and was not what he was looking for.

The pictures below show close up of things potential buyer referenced:

1. Grill not blacked out. Looks blacked out in this picture. Light conditions makes this vary.
2. Gas filler bezel surround not chrome. This is the way it is from factory.
3. Emblems black on edges. This is the way they are from factory.
4. Touched up paint in passenger door jam and door sill not polished aluminum. Not sure I can get the touched up spot to show up in a photograph.
5. Touched up paint inside of trunk sill. This one you can see in picture. Visable when trunk lid up.
6. Some trim not 100% flat against body and door sills not highly polished. You can see a slight gap between body and rocker panel molding. Side sills are as they were form factory.
7. Body gaps. I would have to say I think the trunk, hood and door gaps are pretty good and are consistent with gaps from factory that have not been tweaked to make them 100% consistent. The top of both doors have closer gaps than the door edges and this is consistent on both the passenger and driver door. This is the gap at the top of the passenger door.
8. The engine compartment is flat black from the fenders down and looks very nice, but it is not gloss black to match the body as it was from the factory.
9. Driver side top door gap. Pretty much the same as the gap at the top of the passenger door.
10. Windshield wiper assemblies not chrome. Never seem chrome windshield wipers on a Mopar and these are as from factory.

View attachment 644163 View attachment 644165 View attachment 644166

Here is a bit of more information regarding the car from the Hagarty guide. The car is a great looking and solidly #3 good condition car and Hagarty puts it at $34,900 in that condition. You could find a lot of cars that met the #3 good condition that were not as nice as this one. It is a number 3 car at a reasonable #3 price. It is not a #4 or #5 condition car being sold for a #3 car price. It is pretty much a great looking and solid driver, not a 100% correct car to be judged at Carlisle. The dash and interior are well above just about every 67 GTX I see being sold. Everything works down to the backup lights and cigarette lighter. How many 67 GTX's do you see that don't have a "works" or "doesn't work" check list or expect you to ask if you want to know what needs repaired.

This has got to be the longest and most full disclosure "for sale" ad in the history of ForBBodiesOnly! You get a ton of pictures, video, undercarriage shots and even potential buyer feedback!

Classifying a vehicle
Correctly classifying a vehicle’s condition is paramount when using Hagerty Valuation Tools®. Our pricing is unique in that we publish Hagerty Price Guide’s prices, and Hagerty Price Guide strives to provide a value for “true” #1 vehicles; these values are often far and away more expensive than identical vehicles in lesser condition. It is estimated that more than 80% of vehicles in the market are either condition #3 or #4, so make sure you are confident in the ascribed condition. Many sellers overrate the condition; overeager buyers tend to do the same for potential purchases.

In addition to a vehicle’s condition, other factors can influence a price. Particularly, number of owners, originality, and documentation to support build claims or restoration work can all greatly effect a vehicle’s value. Note that the addition of factory options can greatly impact the vehicle’s value, so pay attention to any pricing notes that are listed in the “Vehicle Value Details” section of the “Value Your vehicle” tab of the site.

Lastly, use Hagerty Valuation Tools® as a guide, not the Gospel. Use the information presented here to gain a deeper understanding of the market, apply your senses to what you learn, and consult with experts in the field before making any buying or selling decisions.

Condition Ratings
#1 vehicles are the best in the world. The visual image is of the best vehicle, in the right colors, driving onto the lawn at the finest concours. Perfectly clean, the vehicle has been groomed down to the tire treads. Painted and chromed surfaces are mirror-like. Dust and dirt are banned, and materials used are correct and superbly fitted. The one word description for #1 vehicles is "concours."

#2 vehicles could win a local or regional show. They can be former #1 vehicles that have been driven or have aged. Seasoned observers will have to look closely for flaws, but will be able to find some not seen by the general public. The paint, chrome, glass and finishes will all appear as excellent. No excessive smoke will be seen on startup, no unusual noises will emanate from the engine. The vehicle will drive as a new vehicle of its era would. The one word description for #2 vehicles is "excellent."

#3 vehicles could possess some, but not all of the issues of a #4 vehicle, but they will be balanced by other factors such as a fresh paint job or a new, correct interior where applicable. #3 vehicles drive and run well, but might have some incorrect parts. These vehicles are not used for daily transportation but are ready for a long tour without excuses, and the casual passerby will not find any visual flaws. "Good" is the one word description of a #3 vehicle.

#4 vehicles are daily drivers, with flaws visible to the naked eye. The chrome might have pitting or scratches, the windshield might be chipped. Paintwork is imperfect, and perhaps the body has a minor dent. Split seams or a cracked dash, where applicable, might be present. No major parts are missing, but the wheels could differ from the originals, or other non- stock additions might be present. A #4 vehicle can also be a deteriorated restoration. "Fair" is the one word that describes a #4 vehicle.

I have added close up pictures to the post two above of things the first person who looked at the car gave me as feedback. Update for any one who is thinking about driving a long distance or flying to see the car in person.

67GTX440 said:

I have added close up pictures to the post two above of things the first person who looked at the car gave me as feedback. Update for any one who is thinking about driving a long distance or flying to see the car in person.

Click to expand...

These cars take time to sell. I've moved a few that hung around for a few years.....then, boom. 4 offers and a sale. Its a great looking beast. You'll get your asking price for sure.

At exhaust shop with car. Minor leak at gasket where driver side exhaust manifold meet down pipe. Replacing both sides for good measure. Car drives sweet. A black car in Jacksonville would not have been driven at all if AC did not keep it nice and cool. Weather here has been a consistent 93 degrees with almost 100 percent humidity and brief everyday afternoon showers for six weeks!

I have 5 1967 GTX's 2 are 440 automatic cars. Both have an slight exhaust leak on the left side when cold. When the cars run for about 2 minutes that goes away. I can fix it today and a month or two down the road it will be back. Door sill plates were never highly polished from the factory. 66 Satellites had chromed wiper arms, 67 was an argent silver satin finish. Most of the gaps look good to me, these cars were never perfect. The grill could use some touch up but it wasn't black from the factory it was dark argent silver textured paint. R/T specialties has it in a rattle can. I can see the paint finish difference in your picture of the trunk gutter. Like you say its usually closed. I appreciate the guys feedback, but it seems to me that he's looking for a 2+ car for a number 3 price. I feel your car is definitely in the 30-35 thousand dollar range. If I were looking for another, I'm sure I would try to negotiate but I would never be as critical. As far as I'm concerned there are no #1 cars unless they are perfectly restored and never driven. Any car that you can drive into a show field can be no more than a #2+. Most cars you see at car shows are #3 cars or lower. That's my 2 cents worth.

Jerry Hall said:

I have 5 1967 GTX's 2 are 440 automatic cars. Both have an slight exhaust leak on the left side when cold. When the cars run for about 2 minutes that goes away. I can fix it today and a month or two down the road it will be back. Door sill plates were never highly polished from the factory. 66 Satellites had chromed wiper arms, 67 was an argent silver satin finish. Most of the gaps look good to me, these cars were never perfect. The grill could use some touch up but it wasn't black from the factory it was dark argent silver textured paint. R/T specialties has it in a rattle can. I can see the paint finish difference in your picture of the trunk gutter. Like you say its usually closed. I appreciate the guys feedback, but it seems to me that he's looking for a 2+ car for a number 3 price. I feel your car is definitely in the 30-35 thousand dollar range. If I were looking for another, I'm sure I would try to negotiate but I would never be as critical. As far as I'm concerned there are no #1 cars unless they are perfectly restored and never driven. Any car that you can drive into a show field can be no more than a #2+. Most cars you see at car shows are #3 cars or lower. That's my 2 cents worth.

Click to expand...

I appreciate your feedback and agree with your assessment.

Duplicate post in error.

Duplicate post in error.