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headers for alum trickflow heads

plug

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I'm looking for good header to fit the aluminum trickflow heads. (angled plugs), 512 bb in a 73 bird.
 
After my experience with Doug’s, I would only recommend TTI
 
Since I switched from TTIs to Dougs I'd like to hear your experience.

I just had to smash mine in with a hammer and torch in multiple places such as the starter and both sides with the pitman arms.
 
Okay. On my 63 Fury I had made various "modifications" to the TTIs for plug wire clearance and pitman/idler arm clearance. When I decided that I wanted ceramic coated headers, I sold the TTIs and bought the #D452 Dougs. They fit great, but came very close to the steering arm knuckles. The spark plug access and boot clearance is great. All plugs come out from the top except #6 which easily removes from underneath. Since installing these, I have not had to replace ANY plug wires or boots.
Because the small clearance to the steering knuckles bothered me, I made two spacers from 6061 X 1/4" thick aluminum that mimic the shape of the motor mounts (new). I slotted them so that when I raised the engine with a bottle jack on the pan rail, one side at a time, I could slip the spacers in under the mounts. This effectively raised the engine enough to easily allow the header tubes to clear everything. Fan to shroud clearance is fine also.
However, as any of us who have watched Roadkill with Dave Frieberger (sp) when he "bashed" in several header tubes with a sledge hammer and documented that there was almost no difference in horsepower on the dyno, I doubt the tweaking that you did would amount to a 'hill of beans'...lol
 
Okay. On my 63 Fury I had made various "modifications" to the TTIs for plug wire clearance and pitman/idler arm clearance. When I decided that I wanted ceramic coated headers, I sold the TTIs and bought the #D452 Dougs. They fit great, but came very close to the steering arm knuckles. The spark plug access and boot clearance is great. All plugs come out from the top except #6 which easily removes from underneath. Since installing these, I have not had to replace ANY plug wires or boots.
Because the small clearance to the steering knuckles bothered me, I made two spacers from 6061 X 1/4" thick aluminum that mimic the shape of the motor mounts (new). I slotted them so that when I raised the engine with a bottle jack on the pan rail, one side at a time, I could slip the spacers in under the mounts. This effectively raised the engine enough to easily allow the header tubes to clear everything. Fan to shroud clearance is fine also.
However, as any of us who have watched Roadkill with Dave Frieberger (sp) when he "bashed" in several header tubes with a sledge hammer and documented that there was almost no difference in horsepower on the dyno, I doubt the tweaking that you did would amount to a 'hill of beans'...lol

ya im not worried about performance. It just killed me to smash in new nice ceramic coating. I did the motor mount shims as well.
 
Dougs 452s fit nicely on my 64 Dodge. Just one ding to clear the passenger torsion bar.
No issue with the angled plugs in the sidewinder heads.
 
I'm looking to get a set of fenderwells for my 64 plymouth. It doesn´t seems to be any good headers for the 64 with B-Block except tti.. RB-Block is easy but with the smaller bigblocks.. I also run trickflows on my 400, but has been running stock manifolds until now.. (Been running turbo charged).
 
Would 2in headers work on a low deck and trick Flow heads 67 Plymouth
 
Dougs 451,s fit perfect on my 65 coronet with a low deck.
 
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