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Holley 4150 stud placement/size???

///Matt

///Matt

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help me out here, I’ve searched around a bunch and can’t find enough information to appease me...

On my Holley (currently a 750DP, switching to a Street Avenger, but same bracktry) my ‘68 satellite’s pedal travel (from full firewall contact to buried in the floor) is not enough travel to swing the carb from fully closed (high idle off) to full WOT. I can only get to around 70% with an adjusted cable. You can see in the picture which stud hole I’m using. In order to bring the travel ratios closer to each other, I need to move the stud closer to the throttle shaft, to reduce required throw at the carb.

I moved the stud to the blue-circled hole, but in that position the stud interfered with the mechanical secondary bracket. I also had to enlarge that hole to even use it.

I want to try moving to the green-circled hole, but it is notably larger than the hole the stud is in now. I’m sure I can acquire a stud to mount there, but I can’t or don’t know how to find it.

Help!

Which setup are you using on your carb? Bonus points for pictures. Help
me to correct this issue! I really would like to be ABLE to reach WOT.

Alternatively, I could need a pedal bell-crank with a different ratio, but I don’t even begin to know how to find one that I know will fit.

EADA4533-AF3E-49E8-9C9A-3D67FF495460.jpeg
 
I have a Challenger with a Quickfuel and I used your green hole and it worked out OK.
Try Summit or an E body stud they are around 1/4 inch thread.
 
steve340 said:
I have a Challenger with a Quickfuel and I used your green hole and it worked out OK.
Try Summit or an E body stud they are around 1/4 inch thread.
Click to expand...
Same size ball on a 1/4” stud?
 
A Challenger has a different system that was just a suggestion but I have seen what you need in Holley kits it should be fairly easy to get.
 
R/T Boy 67 said:
You need holley part number 20-7. Works perfectly.
Click to expand...
Aww no beer for R/T.

20-7 just moves the stud laterally away from the carb, not closer to the throttle shaft of the carb...

A11D69A9-749C-4831-9774-7D70B50865B1.png
 
If you have the factory throttle pedal it should work. It also allows the use of the stock kickdown linkage. If for some reason it doesn't work, there is all kinds of room to drill a lower hole for the stud.
 
Why not grab the pedal and lift to bend the arm. Just a little at a time until you have what you need. Dave
 
R/T Boy 67 said:
If you have the factory throttle pedal it should work. It also allows the use of the stock kickdown linkage. If for some reason it doesn't work, there is all kinds of room to drill a lower hole for the stud.
Click to expand...
Yeah... I honestly don’t know if the pedal is factory, but it looks new enough that I doubt it? It’s a Lokar throttle and kickdown cable kit, so not using the original stud on the carb.

I may have to get it and drill a new hole for the stud, if there’s not another part that fits the green hole and works for me... or maybe fab my own spacer to shrink the hole to the right size?
 
65 3 times said:
Why not grab the pedal and lift to bend the arm. Just a little at a time until you have what you need. Dave
Click to expand...

The pedal arm is literally already at the top of the pedal. If I bend the arm up, the pedal won’t engage it anymore :/
 
I’m wondering now if maybe I can stick a spacer under the pedal crank, to bring it a little further from the firewall, and perhaps allow a further press of the pedal (trading off that the pedal might rest closed in a more vertical position, and maybe have a stiffer push) ... I’ll have to look and measure in the morning.

One way or the other, I’m getting WOT! Ha
 
Sounds like something is a bit weird with the pedal setup?
Does the back of the pedal have the sloped shape and the roller on the linkage?
On the Holley throttle linkage, I drill a new hole for the cable attachment towards the front of the lever arm, usually as high/close to the large hole on top, but I may have more pedal travel? Drilling a hole forward and lower than the green circled hole would make the throttle open very quickly.
The height of the throttle bracket also makes a difference in the angle the cable is pulling on the throttle lever. The taller/higher the throttle cable bracket, the more forward (of the throttle shaft) the cable attachment needs to be.
 
451Mopar said:
Sounds like something is a bit weird with the pedal setup?
Does the back of the pedal have the sloped shape and the roller on the linkage?
On the Holley throttle linkage, I drill a new hole for the cable attachment towards the front of the lever arm, usually as high/close to the large hole on top, but I may have more pedal travel? Drilling a hole forward and lower than the green circled hole would make the throttle open very quickly.
The height of the throttle bracket also makes a difference in the angle the cable is pulling on the throttle lever. The taller/higher the throttle cable bracket, the more forward (of the throttle shaft) the cable attachment needs to be.
Click to expand...
I was looking at yearone and classic industries and places like that last nigt, and my pedal seems to be the same as theirs... floor mounted slant pedal. The lever assembly is firewall mounted, with the roller on the arm.

The throtte bracket is a Lokar, and not height adjustable, except I guess by changing the spacer washers around the PO used, but I’ll have to see if that won’t create a bind for the springs.

902082B2-C99A-4F10-801F-04D21605E66D.jpeg
 
lokar throttle cable adjustment

Adjustment starts at 7:50
Adjusting those 2 nuts and the length of the sheathing will have an effect of length of travel. If those are adjusted to much after the initial install, it may require an adjust at the carb
 
Last edited:
That spacer between the carb and bracket is making the geometry worse. The cable will rub the aluminum adjuster a bit, you can twist the bracket to reduce the amount the cable rubs on the adjuster. How much slack is in the cable?
I'll try getting photo of carbs with attachment hole re-drilled towards the front of the throttle lever that I used with my Lokar throttle cable setup.
 
How about a close-up picture of your pedal assembly inside the car from the side?
 
So I grabbed holley 20-2 ( https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/brackets_and_linkage/parts/20-2 ) and the largest stud in the kit fits the hole I wanted, and attaches perfectly to the lokar cable end. The stud hardware also does not bind anywhere, as I ran across with the blue-circle. I know can achieve full closed to full WOT with the travel my pedal has. In fact, I have excess travel at the pedal right now (hits WOT and tugs on the cable instead of resting on the floor). I’ll have to adjust a little out of the throttle cable, and slacken the pedal up a bit, to prevent cable stress if I really stand on it.

But mission accomplished!

I also grabbed the “updated” Lokar cable bracket for at the carb, which has a set-screw on it to prevent the bracket from swinging forward. The existing, older, bracket did not have this provision, and the PO has stated that after some heat-cycling/vibration it tended to inch forward, slacking the throttle/kickdown.

3B79DF33-74F6-43EA-8357-1B6BCF2D1E49.jpeg
 
///Matt said:
So I grabbed holley 20-2 ( https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/brackets_and_linkage/parts/20-2 ) and the largest stud in the kit fits the hole I wanted, and attaches perfectly to the lokar cable end. The stud hardware also does not bind anywhere, as I ran across with the blue-circle. I know can achieve full closed to full WOT with the travel my pedal has. In fact, I have excess travel at the pedal right now (hits WOT and tugs on the cable instead of resting on the floor). I’ll have to adjust a little out of the throttle cable, and slacken the pedal up a bit, to prevent cable stress if I really stand on it.

But mission accomplished!

I also grabbed the “updated” Lokar cable bracket for at the carb, which has a set-screw on it to prevent the bracket from swinging forward. The existing, older, bracket did not have this provision, and the PO has stated that after some heat-cycling/vibration it tended to inch forward, slacking the throttle/kickdown.

View attachment 632133
Click to expand...
Keep an eye on your Lokar bracket... I've been using one that has the set screw also, and it still moved from time to time especially if I mashed the throttle. What I did to stop it was put a star washer under the carb-stud nut to bite down nto the bracket some and hold it better and that seems to have done the trick..it doesn't move now
 
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