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Oil Pan Drain Plug Leaks

When I change oil on any of my wheels I always first brake clean the drain plug. Then check the threads for being "pulled" i.e. Are the threads all angled slightly to one side? If so then replace it. Its much easier than replacing the oil pan or trying to repair its damaged threads. I also replace the plastic or brass washer if badly distorted. Then I apply a small amount of black RTV silicone to the washer on the plug and halfway up the length on the threads. By this time I've already changed the oil filter and there is very little oil if any dripping out of the pan. Then I wipe any oil away from the pan hole with a lint free shop towel that is soaked in brake clean. Install and tighten plug to spec and you are all set. I've never had an oil plan drain plug leak when doing it this way.
 
hyde-park said:
When I change oil on any of my wheels I always first brake clean the drain plug. Then check the threads for being "pulled" i.e. Are the threads all angled slightly to one side? If so then replace it. Its much easier than replacing the oil pan or trying to repair its damaged threads. I also replace the plastic or brass washer if badly distorted. Then I apply a small amount of black RTV silicone to the washer on the plug and halfway up the length on the threads. By this time I've already changed the oil filter and there is very little oil if any dripping out of the pan. Then I wipe any oil away from the pan hole with a lint free shop towel that is soaked in brake clean. Install and tighten plug to spec and you are all set. I've never had an oil plan drain plug leak when doing it this way.
Click to expand...
I thought I was fussy. Will pay more attention to the above tips at next change.
 
hyde-park said:
When I change oil on any of my wheels I always first brake clean the drain plug. Then check the threads for being "pulled" i.e. Are the threads all angled slightly to one side? If so then replace it. Its much easier than replacing the oil pan or trying to repair its damaged threads. I also replace the plastic or brass washer if badly distorted. Then I apply a small amount of black RTV silicone to the washer on the plug and halfway up the length on the threads. By this time I've already changed the oil filter and there is very little oil if any dripping out of the pan. Then I wipe any oil away from the pan hole with a lint free shop towel that is soaked in brake clean. Install and tighten plug to spec and you are all set. I've never had an oil plan drain plug leak when doing it this way.
Click to expand...

hyde-park,
Thanks, I always check both the plug and pan threads, and use brake clean. However, never thought to use RTV silicone. When I use the Black RTV; should I let RTV setup for an hour or so?
 
RT70 said:
hyde-park,
Thanks, I always check both the plug and pan threads, and use brake clean. However, never thought to use RTV silicone. When I use the Black RTV; should I let RTV setup for an hour or so?
Click to expand...
I've never let it set up. Sometimes I'll wipe the excess off around plug after its tightened if I applied too much. When I worked in a garage 30 plus years ago in my early 20's, this was how I was taught to do it. You didn't want a customer bringing their car back because it dripped oil onto their garage floor.
 
hyde-park said:
I've never let it set up. Sometimes I'll wipe the excess off around plug after its tightened if I applied too much. When I worked in a garage 30 plus years ago in my early 20's, this was how I was taught to do it. You didn't want a customer bringing their car back because it dripped oil onto their garage floor.
Click to expand...

hyde-park,

Thanks much for getting back to me. Your suggestion(s) are appreciated. That oil spot on the garage floor, though small was a bit annoying.
 
Car Nut said:
20 ft. lbs or 20 in. lbs?
Click to expand...

Car Nut,
Being this is my first Mopar (70 Coronet R/T, 440 Mag) I follow the "1970 Dodge Charger/Coronet Service Manual". Group 9-102, Torque ft. lbs. 20.
 
I had the same problem a few years ago. I did everything short of bringing a witch doctor in to dance around the thing. It would drip a few drops of oil a day. I got serous one day and took the drain plug out and really examined around the oil plug. I discovered a hair line crack around the plug that was very hard to see. The oil pan was new so I was surprsed the pan was the problem. I changed the oil pan and solved the problem.
 
RT70 said:
Car Nut,
Being this is my first Mopar (70 Coronet R/T, 440 Mag) I follow the "1970 Dodge Charger/Coronet Service Manual". Group 9-102, Torque ft. lbs. 20.
Click to expand...
That’s too much, I wonder if it was a miss print.
 
My 1963 FSM for my Plymouth shows 35 FOOT lbs.....for all engines. Don't know if I'd try that on anything other than a factory pan.
 
ga66mopar said:
I had the same problem a few years ago. I did everything short of bringing a witch doctor in to dance around the thing. It would drip a few drops of oil a day. I got serous one day and took the drain plug out and really examined around the oil plug. I discovered a hair line crack around the plug that was very hard to see. The oil pan was new so I was surprsed the pan was the problem. I changed the oil pan and solved the problem.
Click to expand...

ga66mopar,
Thanks for the info, the Pan could well be the problem. I've checked it and it wouldn't hurt to check the Pan area again.
 
Car Nut said:
That’s too much, I wonder if it was a miss print.
Click to expand...

Car Nut,
Thanks, your Post got me curious, so I looked at drain plug specs for all Dodge Engines for 1970. I also looked at drain plug specs for my other vehicles.

1965 Skylark GS 425 cu 25-to-35 ft lb
1991 Chev Suburban 350 cu 16 ft lb
1994 Pontiac Bonne 3800 V6 30 ft lb

On all Dodge engines for 1970; the drain plug specs are 20 ft lb. This includes the 225 6 cylinder and the 425 Hemi.

It appears these drain plug tightening torques range from 16-to-35 ft lbs. On my wife's Pontiac, I have never even got close to 30 ft lb. Right now the 440 cu in my Coronet is Torqued to 25 ft lb, and it appears the leak has stopped. The 25 ft lb torque is too much for me. Next step is to try using a copper crush washer which I got from Harbor Freight.
 
coloradodave said:
My 1963 FSM for my Plymouth shows 35 FOOT lbs.....for all engines. Don't know if I'd try that on anything other than a factory pan.
Click to expand...

coloradodave,
Thanks for the info. That is a rather high torque spec for an oil pan drain plug. I don't think I'd try it on the 440 cu
 
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