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5/8 wheel studs on a dana 60 with torque thrust d wheels

kidmopar

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hey guys im ordering new axles for my dana 60 under my 64 savoy and using torque thrust d wheels, who has done this? Also who has used dr. diff axles on their drag car? or will moser be better? it will be a 10:50 to 11:50 et in the 1/4 mile
 
Is your car tubbed? Narrowed rearend? Very deep dish wheels?
Do you have old original torque thrusts, or new
ones with conical seats for the lugs? Conical won't accept 5/8" studs ( I just walked out to my garage and checked mine).
I think you are referring to drive studs which are 11/16 which will only work with shoulder style lug wheels and will become a nightmare to get wheels on or off the car unless it's tubbed and has maximum deep dish wheels and your fenders aren't in the way ( in other words, not stock fender openings.
If you get that I'm trying to discourage you from more than 1/2 studs, you're right. There are lots of 8second cars out there on 1/2 studs, you won't need the headache to go tens.
I would think either axle would be plenty good enough in a dana, though I don't have personal experience with either. I do believe Dr diff will help you out, his rep on this board is gold.
I'm using press in half inch in stock 8 3/4 axles in a low eleven car, screw in 1/2" in strange axles, 9" 9sec car, screw in 1/2" in summers bros 9" 8sec car.
 
I run Dr. Diff 35-spline axles in my 8-3/4. My car isn’t real fast, but it is real heavy, so I tax my axles a fairly good amount going 1.57 at nearly 3900 lbs. Nearly all of my components came from Dr. Diff. He offers the same warranty as Moser or any other, so.... Cass is a stand-up guy. Give him a call and tell him what you’re application is, I’m sure he’ll take care of you. His customer service and support after the sale are second to none.
 
The trouble is that there isn't much space to the center of the wheel. Requires a long spacer and some relieving of material. Now if you went with 5" on 5 bolt pattern wheels that would work. My car still runs 1/2" studs. Runs 1.2X 60ft, 550+passes.
Doug
 
I torque mine to start,110lb/ft. Then recheck them after every pass until they don't need to be tightened. Usually one pass, sometimes two. After that they stay tight. Check them periodically, but haven't had then loosen up.
Doug
 
Hey guys, I hope I don't mess up a thread as I'm not a racist,(pun intended). I haven't drag raced,(on a track), in more than 40 years. But reading this post brought something to mind from long ago which to me, reinforces your comments here about not needing a larger lug size. I am going back years ago for this and senility may be distorting my facts but...
Does anyone remember the lawsuit way back when U-Haul trucks were involved several roll overs due to lugs sheering off on dual wheeled trucks. The trucks involved were Fords which were special ordered to U-hauls specs. Both Ford and U-Haul tried to blame each other. Kind of like the Firestone 500 tire fiasco with Ford under inflating them to give a smoother ride and the tires failing. The result of the lug investigation was quite interesting. I read it in an engineering rag somewhere. It turns out that U-Haul spec'd a larger diameter lug than was stock to the trucks. I don't remember if it was 5/8" increased to 3/4" or not. Common sense would make one believe that the larger lug stud was stronger. But, strangely enough, it was not! The report said something about surface tension verses sheer! In this case, with both lug sizes equally hardened, the actual surface tension on the larger lug was less as it was spread out over a larger diameter so the wheel could sheer the studs easier than the originals, which were not having any problems. Because I always like to over build everything, it certainly made me wonder. I also recalled years ago about the Ford boss 429 verses the Mopar Hemi. I recalled reading that Chrysler Engineers diagnosed the 429 lost power in the midrange because of the valves being miss-sized. Again, I am recalling data from years back, (before you were born, remember)?
So I hope you enjoyed my little tales from the crypt and please don't take anything as the gospel as I am now officially a senile citizen! Remember, "Ignorance can be bliss!"
 
Ding ding ding Doug. I'm on my way to pick up some custom ordered 15x12 torque thrusts in about ten minutes. 5 on 5 pattern for my antique A/MP car.
 
The trouble is that there isn't much space to the center of the wheel. Requires a long spacer and some relieving of material. Now if you went with 5" on 5 bolt pattern wheels that would work. My car still runs 1/2" studs. Runs 1.2X 60ft, 550+passes.
Doug
Doug that makes me feel better knowing that 1/2 in studs do fine especially if i decide to build a bigger motor to run faster than 10:50s! i surely thought u had 5/8 studs on that bad boy lol
 
Hey guys, I hope I don't mess up a thread as I'm not a racist,(pun intended). I haven't drag raced,(on a track), in more than 40 years. But reading this post brought something to mind from long ago which to me, reinforces your comments here about not needing a larger lug size. I am going back years ago for this and senility may be distorting my facts but...
Does anyone remember the lawsuit way back when U-Haul trucks were involved several roll overs due to lugs sheering off on dual wheeled trucks. The trucks involved were Fords which were special ordered to U-hauls specs. Both Ford and U-Haul tried to blame each other. Kind of like the Firestone 500 tire fiasco with Ford under inflating them to give a smoother ride and the tires failing. The result of the lug investigation was quite interesting. I read it in an engineering rag somewhere. It turns out that U-Haul spec'd a larger diameter lug than was stock to the trucks. I don't remember if it was 5/8" increased to 3/4" or not. Common sense would make one believe that the larger lug stud was stronger. But, strangely enough, it was not! The report said something about surface tension verses sheer! In this case, with both lug sizes equally hardened, the actual surface tension on the larger lug was less as it was spread out over a larger diameter so the wheel could sheer the studs easier than the originals, which were not having any problems. Because I always like to over build everything, it certainly made me wonder. I also recalled years ago about the Ford boss 429 verses the Mopar Hemi. I recalled reading that Chrysler Engineers diagnosed the 429 lost power in the midrange because of the valves being miss-sized. Again, I am recalling data from years back, (before you were born, remember)?
So I hope you enjoyed my little tales from the crypt and please don't take anything as the gospel as I am now officially a senile citizen! Remember, "Ignorance can be bliss!"
i do remember some of that and im an older guy lol pushing 60 before too long thanks for the info!!
I run Dr. Diff 35-spline axles in my 8-3/4. My car isn’t real fast, but it is real heavy, so I tax my axles a fairly good amount going 1.57 at nearly 3900 lbs. Nearly all of my components came from Dr. Diff. He offers the same warranty as Moser or any other, so.... Cass is a stand-up guy. Give him a call and tell him what you’re application is, I’m sure he’ll take care of you. His customer service and support after the sale are second to none.
well thats a good sign as i know dr diff isnt as well known in drag racing circles like moser is but i do like his prices but only if its quality parts , thanks for easing my mind!
 
I run Dr. Diff 35-spline axles in my 8-3/4. My car isn’t real fast, but it is real heavy, so I tax my axles a fairly good amount going 1.57 at nearly 3900 lbs. Nearly all of my components came from Dr. Diff. He offers the same warranty as Moser or any other, so.... Cass is a stand-up guy. Give him a call and tell him what you’re application is, I’m sure he’ll take care of you. His customer service and support after the sale are second to none. thanks!! i shall check with him and had no idea his warranty is just as good as moser!
 
I believe Dr Diff sells Dutchman axles. Good stuff. 35 spline Dana axles, your grandchildren still won't break em.
 
I will say that we bent 1/2" studs on my sons turbo car. It had stock style steel wheels. There is not much surface area where the wheel touches the drum. What keeps the wheel from working against the studs? Surface area held tight by clamp load. The studs don't turn the wheel. You need to have sufficient surface area contact between the wheel and the drum/rotor. Then it needs sufficient clamping force. That's what keeps everything in one piece.
Doug
 
New today. 15x12 5 on 5"

20180806_150448.jpg 20180806_150809.jpg
 
16x8 1/2, 5 on 4 1/2. Can you see the cutout on the center hub? Its there for socket clearance for a normal size stud.
The other wheel is also 5 x 5 . No cutout needed.

20180806_151037.jpg 20180806_151050.jpg 20180806_151149.jpg
 
Aluminum lugnuts? Sketchy in my opinion. First thing I'd do would be to check legality with nhra.
(They sure are purty though!)
 
Photon 440 is correct.
This is the same company that makes the "NHRA Approved" Collector Tethers.

They say, the recommended torque on the 5/8 nuts are 100' lbs. I would run them.
 
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