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Killer $75 new ignition system...GM module. I already hear the screams!

Just put some duct tape on is somewhere and you will be considered a genius for making it work.
 
I just took it to the next step and got rid of the distributor on my engine.
 
DrewTX said:
Nice photo 451MOPAR! I wonder if those resistors-capacitors were just upgraded (MILITARY spec!), would it be a killer ignition????
Click to expand...
Nothing wrong with ceramic disc capacitors. High value carbon resistors could be improved with film resistors.
 
andyf said:
I just took it to the next step and got rid of the distributor on my engine.
Click to expand...
Not to hijack Drew's thread...but I'm interested. Hey might as well ditch all of it, right? Distributors can cause funky issues too. Can you detail what you did in another thread? (Unless of course it's double secret!)
 
Chrysler big block crank trigger kit From MSD!?

DC1FD160-505D-45AF-8EA7-2EA1CCA97A23.jpeg
 
This sounds like something I'd like to try. What coil did you use - I'm not familiar with the difference between what I have now and an 'e-core' type. Also, where did you get the aluminum collar?
 
I havent seen one yet but I beleive Holley has been cranking out cam positioners for coil on plug set ups for everyone except BBMs....waiting and waiting...
I almost bought a dual sync a couple of weeks ago to use with my Terminator just found out they are already on a genII version...and its actually cheaper..
 
DrewTX said:
Tired of my ignition problems on my 1971 Charger, I decided to make my own using a GM module (I already hear the screams) and an E-core type coil and some bracket fabrication.

To install: mount the collar to the distributor, connect the distributor plug, one wire each to the + and – coil terminals and turn the key! When I turn the key, no more few turn overs of the engine… it fires up immediately! The performance on the road far surpassed my expectations. For a professional install, I used OEM Delphi terminals and my Rennsteig PEW12 hand crimper. I'll never be stranded again, as I can pick up one of these modules anywhere. My collar distributor mount isn't completely necessary and was just to hide it, as I still have my orange box there to look correct. Not bad for $75 in parts for the module, coil and aluminum pieces!
Click to expand...
Nice work fabricating a bracket to mount the HEI module! I'm not sure that it's all that important to look period correct, especially since the HEI module isn't really hidden. It's more important to keep the HEI module as cool as possible and adding an HEI heat sink would be a great addition.

Since much of the wiring can be reused if you replace the Mopar EI module with the HEI module, the Mopar ignition module location would be cooler than on the distributor.

I would make sure that the HEI module gets full voltage and I got my relays from Daniel Stern Lighting. I have write-up about my HEI upgrade here: HEI Ignition Upgrade.
 
fjr said:
Nice work fabricating a bracket to mount the HEI module! I'm not sure that it's all that important to look period correct, especially since the HEI module isn't really hidden. It's more important to keep the HEI module as cool as possible and adding an HEI heat sink would be a great addition.

Since much of the wiring can be reused if you replace the Mopar EI module with the HEI module, the Mopar ignition module location would be cooler than on the distributor.

I would make sure that the HEI module gets full voltage and I got my relays from Daniel Stern Lighting. I have write-up about my HEI upgrade here: HEI Ignition Upgrade.
Click to expand...
You are right, you need a full 12v constant supply! The bracket is a 1.25” tube bracket for rail or dune buggy.
 
Man you guys are way above my electronic grade. Great work always admired you electronic math guys
 
check out sdconcepts for crank trigger kits for mopars, both big and small block. ready to run with efi.
 
Got my module mounter to a plate screwed to bottom of distributor can't hardly see it.
Works great, using Accel electronic super coil
 
For those of you electronically inclined that would like to know whats really in the orange box... Here is a schematic of the "Orange Box". I think that the KEY to the way this circuit works is the UJ-1 device which is a " Programmable Uni-junction Transistor". Reading up on this device, it is basically a switching device, but a programmable and accurate one, in that when triggered, it will always provide a repeatable on/off cycle duration. This devices switching function is not affected by voltage variations in the cars electrical / charging system.
The pickup device in the distributor is triggered by the "reluctor", a star wheel that creating pulses with rotation in the pickup coil. When a point of the star aligns with the pickup device, a trigger pulse is sent to the orange box on pin on "C". The orange box circuitry amplifies this pulse, shapes it to be of consistent duration ( UJ-1) , and turns on, or causes to "conduct" the large silver Q-3 power transistor which is visible on the heat sink on the outside of the orange box case. This power transistor is basically completing, or switching the ignition coils minus (-) terminal to the cars chassis ( Ground) to induce, or switch, and complete the path to ground, of the ignition coils primary winding. This pulsing DC applied to the coil steps up battery volts to several thousand volts to make the spark that the distributor sends to the plugs. Basically the large power transistors emitter (E) to collector (C) junction provides a switched path to ground, much as the points type distributor did.

Mopar_Ignition0002.JPG
 
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I bought a Pertronix .6ohm coil and an AC Delco ignition module and going to try this upgrade. I have already gutted an old Mopar style Echlin ignition module to hide the GM module in. The car is a mostly stock '66 Coronet with a 383. Next month I'll take the car to the track to get a baseline on performance then go back after the upgrade to see if there is a improvement.
 
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