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Distributor

Price wise? Summit replacement electronic.
 
Mopar Performance is good ( built by Mallory ). Same piece than stock ones ( same pros and cons ), just with adjustable mechanical advance and springs kit. Rotor is aprox 90* off... just to let you know when setting up the ign wires on cap. I indexed the oil/dist shaft thought to match ign wires with cap.


Firecore unit is allmost the same, just more serviciable than the stock, to service the bushing ( but how many times you have to service the bushing in its life anyway ? )

Many other options around if you don't care a plug and play dist.

I'd like to see those what its says BALL BEARING setups, because somebody already dissasembled a Firecore unit sometime ago and posted pics per my requests, and it was a brass bushing like the stock, not bearings. Just easier to service it than the stock one, like I posted
 
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Really depends what you want, stock appearance/performance, numbers matching, one wire, hei etc the options are abundant. There are a ton of good aftermarket ones out there the only thing to remember if you go to get a auto parts store rebuild they are set to a curve in the middle of a ten year spread, might be great or not so great. What I try to stay with is keeping the numbers/curve to that engine. That's my nitch or put a curve to the stock one to the mods made to the engine.Hope it helps.
 
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There are plenty of 383 distributors available at swap meets. As mentioned above, the decision on points versus electronic is first and foremost. After that it is engine build. If stock motor your really into 2 basic categories. Early cars without emission standards. In that case you had Initial timing of 10-12.5 deg, and a camstop that would provide 8 to 10 degrees of distributor advance which is doubled to get crank. So about 30-34 total advance.

When emission standards started about 68 you had the introduction of the CAS (Cleaner Air System) cars. Now you set Initial timing at 0 and the cam added 30 to 36 total depending on car.

You typically can see the degree advance on the cam stop. Stamped 8L or 15L etc... That will tell you what it is, if your not familiar with the part number stamp on early ones.

If this is beyond what you want to mess with, Ray can fix you up. But distributors are pretty easy and you can get what you need if you understand the basics and tune your own stock car.
 
I converted from Mopar Performance distributor to the Firecore. Slightly more $$ but built significantly better than the Taiwanese made Mopar Performance distributors. Comes with all you need to do whatever mechanical curve you want. In my case with my 383 street car, just dropped it in, set timing and all came up as it exactly as it should out of the box. Even the reluctor gap was properly set. Works great, I would recommend.
 
I guess, you got the RTR... because side to side, the non RTR got NO DIFERENCE with the MP unit, aside a clean look and more serviceable shaft bushing. The MP got also spring sets and advance mech plate ajusters. No matter where are they made ( Apple stuff is made in China ), as far they are good. I got the MP Mallory built one.

Trust me, after request pics of how the Firecore non RTR dist is built inside and get those pics, I can say there is no improvemnts over the MP Mallory unit, with the bushing serviceability exception.
 
say HUH?

( from the ricks ehrenberg's auction )

The MP distributors of that era were really Accel GM HEI guts miniaturized into a Chrysler housing, which caused no end of problems.

Mine is not!!! mine is mallory built and is basically exactly the same than the stock one just adjustable on the mech advance
 
I am running the Jeg's vacuum advance distributor which is the same as the Firecore and it works great. I did have to swap out the advance canister to make it work with my cam but that's not the distributor's fault.
 
I have no issues with rebuilts except sometimes you can get a dog. When they rebuild them they fit a span of years and the curve is kind of set up as a one fits all applications. That is why they have no stamped numbers on them.
 
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