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ZDDP additive

Monkeymaster

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So, been reading some articles on the newer engine oils having less and less of zddp and or zinc, and the good stuff for older engines that run higher pressure valve Springs than today's motors.
I use Quaker State 10w40 in my 440 for years, but I am starting to wonder if I should be adding some zddp.
I e mailed Lucus and they recommended their muscle car oil or add their break in additive in.
No one sells this off the shelf around here, and the shipping cost makes online rather unpalatable.
In wandering around different farm stores and auto parts stores, the only additive I found that actually had ZDDP on the label was smallish 8 oz bottles of STP for 3.99 each .
?
Never used STP, always thought it was snake oil, all be it being more like Carmel than like oil.
Anyone have any recommendations other than bending over and paying for the shipping ?
Or am I worried about nothing ?
Thanks in advance
 
I used rotella in my 67 camaro and my MGBGT. I had read that it has higher amounts of ZDDP
 
Pep boys sells the Lucas Hot Rod oil with lots of ZDDP. Or you can order direct from Amazon, free shipping with Prime.
 
I used rotella in my 67 camaro and my MGBGT. I had read that it has higher amounts of ZDDP
love the mgbgt , got 67 and we looking to put a tr6 engine ad 5 speed gear box in it
and at our brittish repair shop we use lucas break in oil.
 
I used the STP for years until I found out In could get ZDDP on Amazon & Ebay. I use it in all my old flat tappet engines.
 
I just made the decision between the Driven HR oil and the Valvoline VR-1, both of which are specifically made with high amounts of ZDDP.
The Valvoline was $3 less per quart and easier to get. Choice made.

I would urge those who have long time loyalties to certain brands to check out their zinc levels in their literature.
Some of the long trusted "names" out there have been stripped of the ZDDP in recent years and their makers didn't say squat about it.
If you've ever wiped a cam over using oil without it (raises hand), you'll know what I mean.
 
67bel....I put the Moss Motors supercharger in it, along with the ac kit. It was a fun car
 
67bel....I put the Moss Motors supercharger in it, along with the ac kit. It was a fun car
COOL , we did on etc to 67 b gt and also a roadster , fun car
handles great. i love gt , I'm not fan of convertibles.we did 1.8 nissan swap. and from killer b a v6 swap.
it s such a solid car too
 
I use lucas additive #10063 added to Rotella diesel 15-40. It has served me well even on the newly rebuilt 383,440, and 340's I have had done.That 440 starts at -15 below with no effort, and no lifter noise, ever.
 
Oriellys has Lucas zinc additive. I use one bottle per oil change.
 
I buy it by the case, so it helps a little bit.12 bottles for 102.00 dollars.
 
Here is the bottom line
Do NOT add ZDDP to SN oils earlier oils OK SN takes a Calcium based EP additive
that said if you have been running many years you do not need any additive-let the oil company or blender put the additives in
The latest fully synthetic oils have greater film strength and do not need any additives
try a euro spec 0W-40 Mercedes 229 and BMW certified Mobil 1 Penzoil Platinum etc made from natural gas
WAlly world has for about $25 fir 5 quarts - I just read that their house brand oil filter is Wix same as NAPA
Don't like Wall Mart and I have a Pep Boys and other commercial accounts but can not come close to their price on this oil
Also use ATF+4 in your tranny even if it's not lock up Good stuff- much better than Dexron III and do NOT think of using DEX VI
no additives
ONLY substitute is Allison transend and best Transend compatible is Citgo Quatrosyn (Not Amsoil) Redline isalso OK
 
i need help, i don't understand the additive thing. if your oil can't handle the job without the additive you need to check or change to different oil. now we have a few parts on the cars that need oil so i have to ask how many of you put a additive in the following. transmission rear gear or even the power steering. the trans takes more abuse then the engine and hear nothing about a additive in it. i don't want to sound like i know everything i just don't understand why when the oil you use has enough additive package in it. if you want more zinc etc find a oil that has what you want sometimes more is to much. my 2 cents not here to pi-- anybody off just trying to understand thank you.
 
wyrmrider been using transyn in my stuff for years. tow rigs and heavy equipment all the way down to my pickup change once a year and forget it. run amsoil in the engines got 250 plus up to 780,000 in heavy equipment still haulin ***. run donaldson filters and all oil samples running clean. zero additives packages
 
I use Valvoline VR1 and highly recommend it. There are a lot of good oils nowadays but bb's that have been clearanced I believe need like 20-50 or a strait wt. like 30 or 40 wt. The way I run my cars I would be scared to use that 10/30 like a lot use. also use a good perf. filter like moroso or jomar.
 
78264A64-D1C2-4ECD-A6E1-78D359CBBDC6.jpeg
High Zinc.
 
i good with whatever you want to run as long as the oil package is good. i use the 15/40 in heavy equipment and 10/30 in my cars. but the additive package is good and like i have said before i use oil sample to help watch everything like wear metals, dirt and coolant etc with it i can see how long the additive package is doing. now the most of you guys might get 10,000 on your hot rod a year but for the most part less than 5,000 for most oils breakdown doesn't start until 8,000 or more depending on how it's driven and idle time. if your a racer i'm sure its changed all the time. now for the blower type and nos outfits need different attention. but additives can be harmful not helpful to some point. again i'm just trying to understand why
 
The big problem was in 2008 under Obama Zinc levels in oil were reduced to nearly zero. they didn't tell anybody, and many engines turned to toast. The additives available today were designed to repair the problem. I lost an engine myself, as I did not know that had been done.
In 1969 zinc levels were around 1200 PPM minimum. in 2008, 200 or less. The additives were designed to raise the minimum to 1200-1700 PPM. flat tappet engines really need 1000-1200 minimum PPM to survive.
 
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