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727 BB trans advice

Sonny

It’s all fun til the rabbit gets the gun.
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I’m getting parts together for my 440 swap and need a 727 trans. It’s a 1978 engine. Do I need to be looking for specific years, model numbers, torque converters, etc.? Will any B.B. 727 work?
 
Some early 727’s were installed in /6 taxicabs. All BB’s should work.
 
Which year car will you be installing this into? Some early models were push button shifted and I think around '65 there is a cable actuated version. anything after 67 should be safe. Another thing to add is the early models had a different spline which has limited torque converter aftermarket support.
Avoid lockup trannies they will have an unsplined section on the end of the input shaft. Approx 1/2" long. No lock ups are spline all the way to the end of the shaft.
 
Which year car will you be installing this into? Some early models were push button shifted and I think around '65 there is a cable actuated version. anything after 67 should be safe. Another thing to add is the early models had a different spline which has limited torque converter aftermarket support.
Avoid lockup trannies they will have an unsplined section on the end of the input shaft. Approx 1/2" long. No lock ups are spline all the way to the end of the shaft.
Putting it in a ‘70 Belvedere.
 
Plus on your converter selection..... I just went through this, there are two different sizes on flex plates , same on convertor bolt spread for 11" or 12" converters to match your flex plate, also make sure you get the correct 440 converter, balanced with weights for cast crank external balance or neutral balance for steel crank, 78 prob will be cast but you never know whats been done to these engines over the years.
Cast crank has a large thick balancer, steel crank has the thin one.
 
You are better off if you can find a 440 trans 67 and later
some other trans have fewer clutch plates and planetariums for a HP build or HD like towing/ motorhome (gotta luv spell check)
HP 383 or 440 will have a different governor but you can change that
but a transgo reprogramming kit in the valve body
if you are going to use a looser than stock converter drill and tap the cooling fittings up a size and drill the passage into the shaft support
run half inch cooler lines (oil proof hose) and a 100 plate and fin cooler with half inch in and out fittings
actually lock up works fine with a loose converter- given the expertise of your converter builder
the more clutch plates are more for longevity/ durability than holding ability Do NOT look for a 5 disk drum (hemi/6pack) which is also the only place to use a really high ratio arm no more hints not knowing your application
you can rebuild a TF yourself
 
As long as you run a 4 friction high clutch it'll be up to the task. If your core has a 3 friction, just upgrade. 3 pin planets will take 900+ no issue. 67 and up take common converters. If the input shaft has a smooth machined end (splines removed) it is a lockup and would require numerous parts to convert. 66 trans uses an odd converter. Get a good valve body kit, 4 plate clutch, and a Dorman 518 truck pan (large capacity). Build with normal Raybestos frictions and you'll be set for years.
Doug
 
A freind has a recently rebuilt 727 stock and wants $500 w/o TQ. Good price? Seems like it.
 
A freind has a recently rebuilt 727 stock and wants $500 w/o TQ. Good price? Seems like it.
If you can trust the rebuild, then yes! Mine was just rebuilt, better than stock but not all-out race, and it cost me $700...
 
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