• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Electrical draw PIA

Tori

Well-Known Member
Local time
2:40 AM
Joined
Jun 4, 2017
Messages
424
Reaction score
193
Location
Pismo Beach, CA
Hi guys,..... need some assistance finding an 06mAH draw. If my car sits for more than about 4/5 days, the battery will be dead. If left longer, it'll be totally flat. As in, ZERO voltage.

Anyway, hooking my volt meter shows the draw isn't constant. It ranges up and down pretty consistantly, as much as 06 mAH
I've pulled all 8 fuses in the fuse block and still have the draw. I suspect the clock, and it's still running even with all fuses pulled.
I replaced the clock last year with one of the Quartz rebuilds from iSi Instrument Services, but I don't recall where the clock gets it's power from.

Any suggestions ?
 
Last edited:
Just off the cuff, a car battery has thousands of mAhr, so I'm not sure the clock is the problem.
A comparison example is my grand marquise parasitic draw is about 15mA, and it can sit for several weeks and not dip the battery.
 
Yes, you are correct. It was just the only thing i could see that was still operating.

I called iSi and the spec. on their clock is 11-13 mAH

I've since disconnected the alternator with no change.
 
Last edited:
Just wondering how old the battery is and if it is possible that a cell could be going.
(even a battery less than a year old could get a bad cell.)
 
It's possible, I have tested the battery and it tests good. (I work at a shop so have that at my disposal)
Good or bad, there is still a huge draw. 06mAH is a lot. That's half an amp.
 
Are you running a volt gauge ? Is it wired to constant vs ignition voltage ? Seen that before
 
Are you running a volt gauge ? Is it wired to constant vs ignition voltage ? Seen that before

Good suggestion, but no. Stock AMP meter. It works.

Update,.... I've since unpluged everything under the dash, both of the large flat, connectors. One blue, one white. I believe those are turn signal and ignition. NO CHANGE.
There is a large gauge RED wire running from starter relay on fender into the bulkhead fitting at firewall. If i unplug this, all draw goes away. Looks like i'm going to have to pull the instrument panel and follow that wire.
 
The amp gauge in my 67 worked.....but drew current and killed the battery.

Only electrical problem I ever had to pay someone else to figure out.
 
I assume this is where the big gauge RED wire goes to.... from there i'm not sure but will start disassembling the dash tonite.
 
One sure-fire way to rule out the battery, even though it may test good, is to leave it completely unhooked (after charging) for a few days and then see what kind of juice it has. I've seen this problem caused by faulty/failing starters & solenoids as well, reach down there and take the wiring off and see if you still have the drain.
 
Since you've pulled all the fuses and still have a drain, I am wondering if you have a bad alternator. Maybe a failed diode. Try disconnecting the Alternator wire and see if the drain goes away. Also unhook the field wire (s) if you have two.
 
Don't tear apart the dash, just disconnect the bulkhead connectors under the hood. Do 1 at a time, see which one affects the draw then grab the schematic and start hunting !
 
Thanks, but too late.

I did narrow it down to a purple wire and gray wire at the cluster. They have a black molded elbow connector and plug onto a threaded male post. Each one was part of the draw. I have not researched what these wires are for yet, but i will try to decipher the wiring schematic. I'm horrible at reading those, so if anyone can offer help, i'd be greatly appreciative.

Also, i see they are labeled at the back of the cluster, This one says "RED" but it had a black wire going to it. (see pic)
IMG_2652.jpg
 
okay,.... the gray one is for the fuel gauge, and the violet is for the oil pressure gauge.....

I would assume neither of these should be getting power with the key off,... strange thing is neither of them worked when the car was off. ???
 
Just trying to help here. When I was chasing parasitic draws at the dealer 25-30 milliamps was within spec. Think about it, thats 25-30 thousanth of an amp. Not much. Anyhow some draws would come and go, read freeking computors. The special tool required was a Fluke 88 IIRC and set to a Min-Max record function. We would leave it hooked up over nite and the see what the Max draw was for a lets say 12hr period. Now I realize our older cars have no software ect, thank God. Could be somthing like a diode in the alternator going south. We had a rash of trunk lamp mercury switches go bad and keep the lite on, that was a bit less than .5 amp. Enough to kill a marginal battery over nite. What kind of meter are you using? Dont want to question your knowledge just throwing this out there. Hope you get your issue solved.
 
moving right along..... what is this little metal box. Constant power goes to it from the back of the Ammeter, and whatever it is its causing a steady pulsing of 12+ to the fuel, oil pressure gauges.

I noticed when taking my amp draw reading, the draw was pulsing.
IMG_2654.JPG
 
Yep, that's exactly what i'm using. And i'm seeing that half an amp.
IMG_2641.JPG
 
Yup that IS 1/2 amp. Or close to it. Not familiar with a 71 Satty but is it an IP voltage regulator you were pointing to?
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top