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ZDDP additive

69a100 said:
Go tell Andy Granitelli that and see if you don't get a *** whoopin! STP has been proven for over 50+ years that it works. Please tell me, why is it that something that's made for race cars is snake oil on the street? Those are the worst conditions you can get in a auto bar none!!
I've used STP on everything, both old & new cars and even rebuilds break-ins for the past 45 years without a problem. Why do you suppose that is?? You all can piss your money away on the other guys, and I'll stick with my STP thank you!
BTW-STP has about 1000PPM ZDDP.
Click to expand...
I've used STP on all my personal vehicles since I first saw it on Petty' s car way back when. Never once an engine failure during normal use.
 
khryslerkid said:
Broke my 440 in with Brad Penn 30 wt break in oil. NO ADDITIVE! The Penn Grade (aka Brad Penn) tech that I talked with says not to use any additive. It will change the intended formula and could be detrimental.

I'm coming up on 500 miles and it just started showing signs of a color change. I'm changing it today and installing 20w 50w Penn Grade (aka Brad Penn) along with a Wix 51515 filter.
Click to expand...

Using the 30w break in oil I only had 20lbs pressure at idle at operating temp. 45lbs to 65lbs cruzing down the road. Much better now useing the 20w 50w. The valves really quieted down too.

I also cut the Wix filter apart for an inspection. Looked a lot better than the first break in filter did.

 
Ranger16 said:
Wasn't STP and Granitelli sued by the FTC back about '73 for false advertising and paid the largest fine ever (at that time)?
Click to expand...

I don't know? Do some homework, find out and report back! That's not my job!
 
I started to use Lucas Classic car oil 10W30 with the Zinc. For about 35.00 free shipping from , well I forgot it was last July. I will change the oil and filter every two years , which will be about 2400 miles total with a new Mopar black filter too. Before this I used regular oil 10/40 or 10/30 since 1980, the engine has 50k on the rebuild. no smoke no noise very little oil use.
 
I use either Driven HR or Valvoline VR1. I buy the Driven when I find it on sale. The VR1 is good stuff but doesn't contain all the detergents and requires a sooner oil change since it is a race oil not meant for daily driving.
 
moparedtn said:
Valvoline VR-1
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That's all I use in my flat tappet hydraulic lifters 440+6, and what I used to use in my wife's 421. Now that the 421 has roller cam and lifters, the 3rd oil change (1st was engine builder's choice of red break in oil, 2nd fill was VR-1 10/40) is going to be regular Valvoline, and then 100% synthetic oil from that point on.
When I changed the lifters in my 440 I added Lucas break in on that fill and the next one. I will use VR-1 in my 440 until I build the stroker, which is going to have solid rollers-per the :lowdown:advice of IQ52
 
khryslerkid said:
Using the 30w break in oil I only had 20lbs pressure at idle at operating temp. 45lbs to 65lbs cruzing down the road. Much better now useing the 20w 50w. The valves really quieted down too.
I also cut the Wix filter apart for an inspection. Looked a lot better than the first break in filter did.
Click to expand...

I'm digging those gauges. What are they?
 
moparedtn said:
I'm digging those gauges. What are they?
Click to expand...
Nos Auto gage I found on flea bay. Came with a amp guage so I found a matching volt meter and replaced.
20160513_115252.jpg

20160513_110844.jpg
 
I have a couple stock small blocks so I just use Valvoline 10/30 And some Rislone supplement.
download.jpeg
 
khryslerkid said:
Using the 30w break in oil I only had 20lbs pressure at idle at operating temp. 45lbs to 65lbs cruzing down the road. Much better now useing the 20w 50w. The valves really quieted down too.

I also cut the Wix filter apart for an inspection. Looked a lot better than the first break in filter did.

Click to expand...


I had a good member on here bring it to my attention that with the 20w50w there might be too much pressure. So doing some research (search "too much oil pressure") I did come to the conclusion that volume is better than pressure. I drained out the 20w50w and used 10w30w instead. There is more flow to the rockers with the thinner weight oil. Cold cranking could be a problem with the heavier weight also.

Looks like the pressure release is around 75psi. I could go one more step and use a lighter spring.
 
khryslerkid said:
volume is better than pressure
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I would generally agree. Too much pressure and I believe the "cushioning" effect of oil can be diminished. Volume is good for cooling down the oil in general and getting it all around. Too much volume however can lower the pan level too much and put too much oil up top.
I could be wrong about any or all of that, and I defer to the engine builders here.
 
I use BradPenn, don't put many miles on over the summer.
Change it before I put it away for winter.
 
biomedtechguy said:
That's all I use in my flat tappet hydraulic lifters 440+6, and what I used to use in my wife's 421. Now that the 421 has roller cam and lifters, the 3rd oil change (1st was engine builder's choice of red break in oil, 2nd fill was VR-1 10/40) is going to be regular Valvoline, and then 100% synthetic oil from that point on.
When I changed the lifters in my 440 I added Lucas break in on that fill and the next one. I will use VR-1 in my 440 until I build the stroker, which is going to have solid rollers-per the :lowdown:advice of IQ52
Click to expand...


When did they start making 10/40 vr1?
I run straight 40 vr1 because they don't have 10/40
 
I was told many years ago that additives cannot actually blend with the base oil package. In terms of what your car needs - a lot depends on the engine itself, and how it gets driven. I run Valvoline 15-45 Fleet in everything I own aside from small engines that get 30W non detergent. I also recommend that for the majority of my engine customers' cars. Others get special instructions and more education on why.
If the flat tappet camshaft you're using is a faster rate deal, and spring pressures are higher, and/or you idle the car (street driving) you would be MUCH better served putting a specialty oil with the right chemical package in it. It's a little more money over the service life, but that will make sure the engine lives.
 
Well said moper- exactly right
I'm using 0W-40 eurospec in most everything, oil analysis showing good results
I live 2 blocks from the freeway so it's two blocks and 70 MPH summer or winter
I take my foot off the gas once up to 60 or so and let it coast down a couple of time but risk getting run over by semis
I used to use 5W-50 back when I was running carburetors- late oil show better results
magvan- it's not hot enough in so cal to run straight 40 unless you are real loose on your build- you get a lot more wear on startup try the eurospec 0w40 Mobil-1 or Penz Plat or other- It will say MB and BMW approved and say made from Natural Gas around $25 for 5 quart jug at wallyworld (single quart price at the chains will scare you)
 
Amsoil is currently making the best out there. Use very good oil and forget about watching zinc levels. Oil has come a long way since zinc was an issue.
 
Amsoil the best?
good, but the best?

I have not looked at Amsoil 0W-40 at $11 a quart plus change
https://www.hellcat.org/threads/im-planning-on-using-this-amsoil-0w40.3084/
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/european/synthetic-0w-40-c-esp-euro-oil/
good, but the best? Pricy and any oil that actually meets the MB and BMW spec is pretty much the same Natural Gas Based Oil
LMFAO
Here is a recent UOA with some track use.
Mobil 1 0w40 Eurospec (or other euro that meets mfg specs) is one of the best oils you can buy.
It is better than Amsoil Euro 5w40. It stays in grade better, and is more oxidation resistant.
and 5 quarts for $25 at Wally World
 
Not a lot of people know this, but Mobil 1 15w-50 is one of the few synthetic (non-specialty) oils that is formulated for flat-tappet camshafts. No need for additives. HT/HS* (High Temperature / High Shear viscosity)

$22.88 for 5-quarts at Walmart.

Oil.png
 
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