Mopar ignition box

Check your early AFB, AVS @ TQ carbs as to where that connection is in and out of the carb.
That is all.

ok I just installed mine two days ago and went on one 30 min test drive, so far its significant over my orange and lastly a jegs high rev, which had a delayed start, this FBO starts the engine right up as you know I like the fact its a modern alternative to correct todays fuel issues it has a bit more power over the jegs I will know more once I drive it on a longer trip. I did try that Revenator ICM, the engine was having this surging all the time and it lost its low end snappy feel. I sent it back for a full refund.

I bought one of the over the counter parts store boxes from Autozone just to get me home after my orange box let the smoke out. It was about $20 and looked almost exaclty lke the mopar chrome box. It got the engine running, but wouldn't rev over 4,500. Good to carry around as a spare, but don't expect much else. The part number for the replacement was CR109.

Edit: the Autozone Duralast brand comes with a lifetime warranty too. So if you smoke it you can get a newer and probably shittier one for free.

I just finished installing a Distributor from Don at 4 Seconds flat.com. With my altered 318 a .430 inch cam, I could no longer use my stock distributor from Auto Zone, and the lack of mopar performance parts availability any more, I had to resort to a Duralast with a non- adjustable VA advance after my old worn out Mopar dist. needed to be replaced. Since about 2012 and after it would not start that well. I was running a factory original dist. when I had the motor rebuilt and it ran and started fine for years. Because the fuel was changed back in about 2012, our engines have had trouble running the new designed fuel which is for a modern engine.

This new dist. is set up with direct manifold vacuum. I installed one heavy spring because I had a slight ping low to mid range on acceleration, nothing at heavy full throttle. The new dist can be adjusted by turning two screws and inserting a plastic pre- sized degree gauge, tighten up check and your all set to go.
My settings are as follows for my particular engine:16 mechanical in the distributor, 18 degrees at the damper, with no VA connected to the manifold, 30 degrees at idle with VA line connected to the Intake manifold vacuum.@@ shown on the vacuum gauge,3 turns of the mixture screws, ( a 2bb carter factory carb) rich it wont idle well with anything less.
My total will now be 34 degrees max mechanical @ wide open throttle and should be about 46 degrees (add the 12 degrees to the 34 max mech) with steady highway driving. I can now adjust the VA at the can and slowly bump it up until my max is reached, some mechanics say and I have read the engine could go up to 50 degrees full VA advance.

This would be ideal for maximum economy and a less smelly car. Now that this new system is in place I can have a cleaner idling car, better economy and much better power with out loosing coil voltage, and power loss up to my 5000 rpm max for this engine 7000 with the new box. When I first tested the car installing only the coil and the new ECU it made more power and sounded better. Now with the new distributor, as Don mentioned I have the complete package for the engine. Of course you need good spark plugs, wires and a good carburetor. All timing adjustments were done by using a digital timing light, it has a the rpm read out and I have a vacuum gauge always connected so I can see how the engine is running all the time. In my opinion and from past experience back in the 80's to about 2012, when the car ran great and started with one key turn, all this modern design components are needed due to the additives in modern fuel.

mopar73dge said:

View attachment 666175 I just finished installing a Distributor from Don at 4 Seconds flat.com. With my altered 318 a .430 inch cam, I could no longer use my stock distributor from Auto Zone, and the lack of mopar performance parts availability any more, I had to resort to a Duralast with a non- adjustable VA advance after my old worn out Mopar dist. needed to be replaced. Since about 2012 and after it would not start that well. I was running a factory original dist. when I had the motor rebuilt and it ran and started fine for years. Because the fuel was changed back in about 2012, our engines have had trouble running the new designed fuel which is for a modern engine.

This new dist. is set up with direct manifold vacuum. I installed one heavy spring because I had a slight ping low to mid range on acceleration, nothing at heavy full throttle. The new dist can be adjusted by turning two screws and inserting a plastic pre- sized degree gauge, tighten up check and your all set to go.
My settings are as follows for my particular engine:16 mechanical in the distributor, 18 degrees at the damper, with no VA connected to the manifold, 30 degrees at idle with VA line connected to the Intake manifold vacuum.@@ shown on the vacuum gauge,3 turns of the mixture screws, ( a 2bb carter factory carb) rich it wont idle well with anything less.
My total will now be 34 degrees max mechanical @ wide open throttle and should be about 46 degrees (add the 12 degrees to the 34 max mech) with steady highway driving. I can now adjust the VA at the can and slowly bump it up until my max is reached, some mechanics say and I have read the engine could go up to 50 degrees full VA advance.

This would be ideal for maximum economy and a less smelly car. Now that this new system is in place I can have a cleaner idling car, better economy and much better power with out loosing coil voltage, and power loss up to my 5000 rpm max for this engine 7000 with the new box. When I first tested the car installing only the coil and the new ECU it made more power and sounded better. Now with the new distributor, as Don mentioned I have the complete package for the engine. Of course you need good spark plugs, wires and a good carburetor. All timing adjustments were done by using a digital timing light, it has a the rpm read out and I have a vacuum gauge always connected so I can see how the engine is running all the time. In my opinion and from past experience back in the 80's to about 2012, when the car ran great and started with one key turn, all this modern design components are needed due to the additives in modern fuel. View attachment 666176

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As I mentioned before, Don really knows his stuff and installing this setup on the 440+6 is one of the best things I've done to the car. I can't say enough good about his products and his service. He will talk to you personally any time you call. Outstanding

I have a Mopar Blue box from the mid '70's. This flat *** worked. I watched the Orange box guys struggle. Oh well. My blue box ran just fine past 7,000 RPM. Later The Blue box was wired in alongside the 404 BC MSD in my drag cars. Still carry those old parts with me. The blue box will still fire today's motors, it worked with my 12.5 CR iron head motors.

are you talking about the high rev form jegs? I have one also for my back up that works very well

mopar73dge said:

are you talking about the high rev form jegs? I have one also for my back up that works very well

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If you are responding to me. No I'm talking '70's Chrysler Blue Box. Make sure a clean case ground, the box really fires the plugs, past 7000 RPM. The orange box guys were losing it past about 5300-5500 RPM. My experience. The parts available today are different, but I still see orange box guys that don't get at all above 5500 RPM.

Come on guys the box is only a coil trigger. It supplies a variable timed constant voltage to the coil. Its ability to preform those two task are all it responsible for in the stock Chrysler configuration. The quality of the components in the box are what matters. I have only seen problems with the so called performance boxes and have stayed clear of them. It has been interesting reading all the hype and complaints. But find it hard to beat the good old stock factory box for reliability if properly installed.

Agreed, and the orange box is better than a stock box, a chrome box is better than an orange box, the gold box is better than the chrome box....

The foot bone is connected to the ..... leg bone,
The leg bone is connected to the.... thigh bone..
The thigh bone is connected to the .... hip bone..

I still use the dum old single point Chrysler distributor. The one that I use I have had for decades. Don't know where to get a good one any more.

I want to say Proform is making the MP kits (China) nowadays. This is the orange box with the distributor. I swore someone bought a chrome box recently marked Made in the USA. It seems like a crap shoot (pun intended lol) on what you get.

Mebsuta said:

I still use the dum old single point Chrysler distributor. The one that I use I have had for decades. Don't know where to get a good one any more.

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I get Carbs and Distributors from Rockauto,they have Autoline rebuilt products.Much better than the Cardone **** these days.

Saw this on ebay a few weeks ago. What caught my eye was made in USA. It didn't sell price to high? If your interested you could contact seller. Not mine.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-IN-BOX...vip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m43663.l10137

Quote from Summit website:
Mopar Performance Parts products are sold "as is" without any warranty whatsoever (excluding crate engines). Products thought to be defective upon initial installation can be returned for inspection and will be handled case by case.

Just sayin' ...........

Don Gould said:

Quote from Summit website:
Mopar Performance Parts products are sold "as is" without any warranty whatsoever (excluding crate engines). Products thought to be defective upon initial installation can be returned for inspection and will be handled case by case.

Just sayin' ...........

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I got your back Don. Guys, these are good products that work like they are supposed to and you won't find better service anywhere!

For performance ignitions, I quit using the stock type ECUs 25-years ago. Been using the all-in-one type dists or CD ignition boxes (or combination of both.) Have has way less problems than with the stock type ECU setup.
For stock, non-performance stuff the parts store replacement ECU seems to do the job.