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Rear Brake Line with Frame Connectors & Torque Boxes

mopar_chuck

mopar_chuck

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Installed frame connectors and torque boxes on a 70 RR and now has come time to put the rear brake line on. As near as I can tell, it is supposed to go up over the torque box and then pass through a difficult spot through the frame connector. It was a painful process and has resulted in the brake line being twisted many different ways and has lost the factory shape. I'm actually considering taking it back out and running SS braided line so it will flex into all of the non factory spots and look half normal. Has anyone else had any experience with doing this? Thanks in advance.
 
I would consider using nicop alloy, very easy to work with. Bend it by hand goes anywhere you need it to easily. Also welcome to the forum, what are you working on and do you have any pictures??
 
I'm in the same boat! Put frame connectors on my 68 and wondering how to plumb the lines now.
Will be watching this post and thanks everyone for the help.
 
1967coronet440 said:
I would consider using nicop alloy, very easy to work with. Bend it by hand goes anywhere you need it to easily. Also welcome to the forum, what are you working on and do you have any pictures??
Click to expand...
Funny, I just come across a guy on YouTube saying the nicop was great stuff as well. However, if you see where it has to go through, I would really prefer to use a flexible line because I’m afraid of it rattling or chaffing. Will take some pics of it tonight. Thanks
 
mopar_chuck said:
Funny, I just come across a guy on YouTube saying the nicop was great stuff as well. However, if you see where it has to go through, I would really prefer to use a flexible line because I’m afraid of it rattling or chaffing. Will take some pics of it tonight. Thanks
Click to expand...
Have you thought about using some kind of rubber gasket around wherever you’re running it to prevent that
 
I use insulted straps to hold brake and fuel lines. Drill frame connectors, put rubber grommets both sides. 1/2" grommet you can get the flare nut through. If you want a smaller hole flare it later.
 
1967coronet440 said:
Have you thought about using some kind of rubber gasket around wherever you’re running it to prevent that
Click to expand...
That may work but it is a sharp 90 degree, then about a fairly small hole to insert it in after that. Also, where it has to go through the torque box, I don't think it is possible.

Fran Blacker said:
I use insulted straps to hold brake and fuel lines. Drill frame connectors, put rubber grommets both sides. 1/2" grommet you can get the flare nut through. If you want a smaller hole flare it later.
Click to expand...
The frame connectors are already drilled/slotted for the line. I will take a pic of it when I get done work later on today so you can better understand what I'm up against.

Another issue with the factory style line is it is spiral wrapped and all one piece. Had to wrap the whole thing in electrical tape just to get it through. It took 2 of us about 2 hours to wrestle the line in place and now it looks like crap.... not to mention the small chips of fresh paint that we knocked off in the process :mad:
 
A7DF7F85-0588-4932-816E-88C214BFB747.jpeg
Going in the torque box....
 
Jeez that must’ve been fun with pre bent lines, if it’s where it needs to be now I’d leave it and add some sleeves/grommets where your entry and exit points are.
 
Guess you couldn't tighten radius on the bends because of armor coils? I didn't run the armor, thought its over kill. Other opinions on this, I'm interested in. 67 coronet 440 said sleeves /grommets and anchor lines. Copper/ nickel tubing easier to bend.
E brake front cable can you move it inboard of connectors with a bracket mounted to trans crossmember ? You could put piece of hydraulic steel tube through holes that in there now. Wear, how often do you use it?
 
Something just looks wrong with to torque box routing. If I remember will post the factory route.
 
1967coronet440 said:
Jeez that must’ve been fun with pre bent lines, if it’s where it needs to be now I’d leave it and add some sleeves/grommets where your entry and exit points are.
Click to expand...
It was a huge pita! That’s probably what we will end up doing. Unfortunately the pre bent line is not so pre bent now lol
Fran Blacker said:
Guess you couldn't tighten radius on the bends because of armor coils? I didn't run the armor, thought its over kill. Other opinions on this, I'm interested in. 67 coronet 440 said sleeves /grommets and anchor lines. Copper/ nickel tubing easier to bend.
E brake front cable can you move it inboard of connectors with a bracket mounted to trans crossmember ? You could put piece of hydraulic steel tube through holes that in there now. Wear, how often do you use it?
Click to expand...
Will hardly ever use the e brake but has to be there for vehicle inspection and is nice to have in case something bad happens haha

mopar 3 B said:
Something just looks wrong with to torque box routing. If I remember will post the factory route.
Click to expand...
That would be great. We originally had the line on the outside of the torque box but would almost be noticeable looking at the car from the side. Plus the torque boxes have that opening so we just assumed the line went through it.
 
Here's what I did with my ebrake and brake lines. Subframe connectors and also torque boxes.

20180919_193029.jpg 20180919_193121.jpg 20180919_193059.jpg
 
7t500 I have a question concerning your ebrake through holes in your subframe connector. Your inbox is full. If you see this can you PM me. Thanks.
Frank
 
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