Sweet5ltr
Well-Known Member
Can skip that step, looking for metallic dust or large metal shavings, as a reference point to future oil changes. Main priority is to change the filter, may be a good idea to cut open to view as well.
Cam Wiped Lobes Now What?
- Thread starter Roadrunner40
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Can skip that step, looking for metallic dust or large metal shavings, as a reference point to future oil changes. Main priority is to change the filter, may be a good idea to cut open to view as well.
Roadrunner40
Well-Known Member
Ok cool thanks. not as bad as I thought.
So thoughts on Pistons??
miller
Well-Known Member
I'll just say this from my own experience. No, never have wiped a cam lobe.
Pistons? Get to that, in a moment. Pretty obvious you've got 'loose' metal in the engine. Tear down, all the way, like some of the guys are saying. Got to get things cleaned out! Bearings, pistons, oil galleys all need to be looked at. Crummy deal wiping that many lobes, but have to do what you gotta do.
At this time, my intake is off, and have a good look at my cam...all is good, at 800 miles on the motor. Have to put some faith in the parts you use. I went with Crower, all in, break-in lubes, tappets, only a bump over a stock HP 440 cam. Except for a hot running engine (radiator), suggested break-in, 2000ish RPM, 20 minutes, done deal. Used ZDDPlus additive, provided cam 'paste', and 30wt VR-1. Did NOT change oil, until I had 500 miles on the engine...and, like I said, all's well. Just choices.
Pistons, and cylinder walls, as said use a ball hone on the cylinder walls, maybe all of 'em, as long as the scoring isn't too bad. The pistons need a good look over, for metal particles embedded in the skirts, ring lands, blah, blah. If nothing major, get the metal off the pistons, smooth off things, and they will go another round. But, look them over good!
Everybody has their own way of doing things...good luck!
Pistons? Get to that, in a moment. Pretty obvious you've got 'loose' metal in the engine. Tear down, all the way, like some of the guys are saying. Got to get things cleaned out! Bearings, pistons, oil galleys all need to be looked at. Crummy deal wiping that many lobes, but have to do what you gotta do.
At this time, my intake is off, and have a good look at my cam...all is good, at 800 miles on the motor. Have to put some faith in the parts you use. I went with Crower, all in, break-in lubes, tappets, only a bump over a stock HP 440 cam. Except for a hot running engine (radiator), suggested break-in, 2000ish RPM, 20 minutes, done deal. Used ZDDPlus additive, provided cam 'paste', and 30wt VR-1. Did NOT change oil, until I had 500 miles on the engine...and, like I said, all's well. Just choices.
Pistons, and cylinder walls, as said use a ball hone on the cylinder walls, maybe all of 'em, as long as the scoring isn't too bad. The pistons need a good look over, for metal particles embedded in the skirts, ring lands, blah, blah. If nothing major, get the metal off the pistons, smooth off things, and they will go another round. But, look them over good!
Everybody has their own way of doing things...good luck!
The walls don't bother me. What has to be looked at is there are probaby cam/lifter metal imbeded in the skirts causing the bore scratches. Get a X-acto and pic them out. Then to the cause of your failure. I agree with making double sure of lifter rotation. The method described in the previous post should do it. Also no cam lube on the sides of the lifter, only the bottom. Personally now a days I'd break it in on a set of weak springs.
Doug
Doug
PRHeads
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I like to verify I have good lifter rotation with spring pressure on the valvetrain, so I have the rocker gear installed and then turn the motor over several times to look things over at the lifters before I put the intake on.
As Dave said, as long as you see some positive movement with each up/down of the lifter, you have rotation.
As Dave said, as long as you see some positive movement with each up/down of the lifter, you have rotation.
wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
All of the above
run a filter with a high pressure bypass so as not to bypass trash
and not thick oil for the same reason (No straight 30 or 40) there have been good break in oil suggestions
do not add ZDDP additive to SN oil get a break in oil from a blender
run a filter with a high pressure bypass so as not to bypass trash
and not thick oil for the same reason (No straight 30 or 40) there have been good break in oil suggestions
do not add ZDDP additive to SN oil get a break in oil from a blender
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