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Frame connector opinion

beanhead

Straining The Limits Of Machine And Man
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Would you guys say the benefits of adding sub frame connectors are worth the extra weight/work? On a 475-500ish HP streetcar with radials, that doesn't normally see the track(and can't hook a catfish in a mud puddle but that's another story lol)..or are they better suited as part of a full recipe for something more race-oriented..thanks
 
Would you guys say the benefits of adding sub frame connectors are worth the extra weight/work? On a 475-500ish HP streetcar with radials, that doesn't normally see the track(and can't hook a catfish in a mud puddle but that's another story lol)..or are they better suited as part of a full recipe for something more race-oriented..thanks
I personally don't see the sense of putting them in on a street driven car. Even with DOT slicks, there is not much hope of hooking up on the oil soaked asphalt at an intersection.
 
Would you guys say the benefits of adding sub frame connectors are worth the extra weight/work? On a 475-500ish HP streetcar with radials, that doesn't normally see the track(and can't hook a catfish in a mud puddle but that's another story lol)..or are they better suited as part of a full recipe for something more race-oriented..thanks

Added them to my street car for the piece of mind that it'll provide as it stiffens, supports, and should help prevent stress on my car . . . stresses that could cause the car to sag in the middle. Let's face it, these cars ( even more so with the new ones ) were not built with ANY intentions of them lasting forever - drive it till it breaks down, then buy a new one. I'm up for doing anything that I can to my car to help it last well beyond my lifetime and allow my kids to enjoy them too ( with out them sagging or splitting in half . . . )

Don't need to buy them from a fabrication store - buy some U-channel steel and make the fitment to your car ( you'll be doing fitment with the purchased ones too - they' not perfect ) . . . and that will save you a lot of coin if that is your requirement . . .

That's my $0.02 on the topic . . . take it for what it's worth . . . . ( your mileage may vary )
 
I personally don't see the sense of putting them in on a street driven car. Even with DOT slicks, there is not much hope of hooking up on the oil soaked asphalt at an intersection.
Right, and I agree with that part of it...but is the stiffening of the unipretzel a good idea with a higher-torque engine in any case, or are they really only for helping traction, I guess is more my question..
 
Added them to my street car for the piece of mind that it'll provide as it stiffens, supports, and should help prevent stress on my car . . . stresses that could cause the car to sag in the middle. Let's face it, these cars ( even more so with the new ones ) were not built with ANY intentions of them lasting forever - drive it till it breaks down, then buy a new one. I'm up for doing anything that I can to my car to help it last well beyond my lifetime and allow my kids to enjoy them too ( with out them sagging or splitting in half . . . )

Don't need to buy them from a fabrication store - buy some U-channel steel and make the fitment to your car ( you'll be doing fitment with the purchased ones too - they' not perfect ) . . . and that will save you a lot of coin if that is your requirement . . .

That's my $0.02 on the topic . . . take it for what it's worth . . . . ( your mileage may vary )
Ok thanks. Many moons ago a friend and I put a basic design down on paper, based off of a tech article in one of the mopar mags..using (I think)some 2" square steel and a little plate at the front to get a good connection there... I should be able to dig it out if I decide to add them.
 
Ok thanks. Many moons ago a friend and I put a basic design down on paper, based off of a tech article in one of the mopar mags..using (I think)some 2" square steel and a little plate at the front to get a good connection there... I should be able to dig it out if I decide to add them.

If you use U-Channel then you can cut away the top and allow you to weld the entire length of the floor ( this creates a torque-box ) so that you have additional strength added to the car.

Set up the U-channel under the car and lift it up into position as best you can till it hits - then measure the biggest opening above the U-channel and use it as your guide measurement - this will give you the floor level - use the measurement every inch along the frame connector placing the mark that distance below the floor level on the connector and connect the dots - then cut it out - and you'll have it.

Square tubing will surely help, but the U-channel welded to the floor is by far the strongest way to do it.

( if you want me to draw out a picture to better explain the process - I'll be happy to draw it out for you . . . you'll have to do the same thing if you buy them - they are not perfect and they do need to be tweaked to get them installed in the car )

Here's a quick sketch of what I mean . . . hope this helps . . .
FrameConnector.png
 
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Welll, I’ve had 2x2” tubing on mine from the mid-70’s when racing. DO IT! Feels soo much better.
 
If you use U-Channel then you can cut away the top and allow you to weld the entire length of the floor ( this creates a torque-box ) so that you have additional strength added to the car.

Set up the U-channel under the car and lift it up into position as best you can till it hits - then measure the biggest opening above the U-channel and use it as your guide measurement - this will give you the floor level - use the measurement every inch along the frame connector placing the mark that distance below the floor level on the connector and connect the dots - then cut it out - and you'll have it.

Square tubing will surely help, but the U-channel welded to the floor is by far the strongest way to do it.

( if you want me to draw out a picture to better explain the process - I'll be happy to draw it out for you . . . you'll have to do the same thing if you buy them - they are not perfect and they do need to be tweaked to get them installed in the car )

Here's a quick sketch of what I mean . . . hope this helps . . .
View attachment 659797
I like the idea of the channel steel thanks!
 
Welll, I’ve had 2x2” tubing on mine from the mid-70’s when racing. DO IT! Feels soo much better.

Mine are the same. Been in since '93. I can jack the car up by them. Dave
 
I put them on my car. Looks like they were meant to be there. It’s a street car. I wasn’t worried about hooking, I was worried about sagging. It was put on a frame table and adjusted all the body lines.
 
I bought the U.S. Car Tool ones shown in the picture for I believe$169.00
direct from them. An hour's worth of "fitting" them and welded them in.
Adds a lot of stiffness to the car. Especially if it's a convertible. There are
oher posts about this subject with some great pic's if you look!
 
I am a big fan of frame connectors & use them on all my cars. The ones on my Roadrunner have been in since before the US Car Tool weld-to-floor ones were available (maybe 20 yrs.), so they just connect to the front/rear frame...bolt in ones that I had welded. My personal preference...use them.
 
I personally don't see the sense of putting them in on a street driven car. Even with DOT slicks, there is not much hope of hooking up on the oil soaked asphalt at an intersection.
You will when you do.
 
I have a set of the Car Tool ones for my car. I didn't install them because the cruises and car shows I go to, are full of those Mopar Nuts that pick your car apart if the hose clamps aren't right, or if you have the wrong colour distributor cap, or the wrong battery vent caps, or "there should only be overspray on the bell housing", "Mopar never used MSD wires". I'm so sick of those, numbers matching, cock suckers, that it ain't worth the bullshit you have to listen to. My car is a really solid 2dr post car, it shouldn't sag.
 
Right, and I agree with that part of it...but is the stiffening of the unipretzel a good idea with a higher-torque engine in any case, or are they really only for helping traction, I guess is more my question..
Answered in order of the question

Yes

No
 
I have a set of the Car Tool ones for my car. I didn't install them because the cruises and car shows I go to, are full of those Mopar Nuts that pick your car apart if the hose clamps aren't right, or if you have the wrong colour distributor cap, or the wrong battery vent caps, or there should only be overspray on the bell housing, Mopar never used MSD wires. I'm so sick of those "numbers matching" cock suckers, that it ain't worth the bullshit you have to listen to. My car is a really solid 2dr post car, it shouldn't sag.
Screw those picky *** b tards, its your car.
 
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Welp....I think I'll be putting it on my to-do list. Thanks for the replies guys. The car's been a fun driver since I got it back on the road and any real soup-up money is pretty much non-existent, but I sometimes have a powerful lust to tinker with the car. If I'm not driving it I wanna at least be wrenching on it!
 
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