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I'm in Starter HELL!

RRDon

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Location
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OK, to start with my car is a 1968 Road Runner with a 383 four speed.
I have ordered 3 different light weight starters and here's how it went:
Starter #1 from some internet company was drop shipped to me with a bad motor.
Starter #2 from Summit P/N 820337 would not work because Batt cable terminal was waay too close to the engine block. See pic below.
Starter Batt Term too close to 383 block.jpg

Returned it to Summit and they said to use the Powermaster 9513 which is adjustable.
Ok, I got the PWS 9513 and when I went to install it, guess what, the friggin mounting hole is blocked. You can't get the mounting bolt can't through! Check this out:
Pwr Master Starter 9513 WTF.jpg


SO, here's my question, does anyone make a lightweight starter that will actually FIT and work on stock 383 engine? I'm sure some of you guys have been through this process. I could sure use your advice about now. Thanks, RRDon (frustrated)
 
I bought a stock '90s Dakota starter. I cut about 3/16" off the terminal for better clearance from the block, just piece of mind. The big Jegs wouldn't clear my headers.

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I have never had a problem with a stock starter, rebuilt right. Everything bolts up the way the car was designed.
 
Doing that right now in a 68 road runner with 383. Bought a starter from Napa for a 91 Dakota with 318. Same starter I used in my super bee, road runner, challenger I had and the same starter my neighbor use in 4 of his mopar muscle cars. I’ll post pictures for others to use for reference.
E1C407C5-2C4C-457F-9863-9E7A373F51D2.jpeg

It comes like this.
FBF6A47E-3D7D-4E1C-85CC-40623E577CB4.jpeg

Remove black cover and remove the post relocation bracket.
90269626-983E-4EDE-87BB-BAFF6AA1BE0D.jpeg

On my super bee, I had to grind where I marked with blue marker to make the mounting holes lined up. Not sure if it was my block or the starter I got some extra casting material in that area. Never had to do this to all the other starters I put in.
 
I have never had a problem with a stock starter, rebuilt right. Everything bolts up the way the car was designed.
The sound of the stock starter is one of the coolest sounding starter of all times until you have to replace it and you have headers.... and you have bolts instead of studs for the headers:drinks:
 
Robbmc starter is a nice piece.
300 bucks, but made in the USA and indexable.
 
Current ride is a 440 4-speed with the ridiculously bad fitting Hedmans on it.
I echo those who are advising using the Dakota starter. It fits beautifully and is quite hardy.
Besides, if it goes bad, you bought the lifetime warranty rebuilt one from Autovancenapa, right?

Oh....and hell yes, use the factory stud on the mount.
That alone saves SO much grief!!
 
Doing that right now in a 68 road runner with 383. Bought a starter from Napa for a 91 Dakota with 318. Same starter I used in my super bee, road runner, challenger I had and the same starter my neighbor use in 4 of his mopar muscle cars. I’ll post pictures for others to use for reference. View attachment 662744
It comes like this.
View attachment 662745
Remove black cover and remove the post relocation bracket.
View attachment 662746
On my super bee, I had to grind where I marked with blue marker to make the mounting holes lined up. Not sure if it was my block or the starter I got some extra casting material in that area. Never had to do this to all the other starters I put in.
Had the same issue but cleaned up some casting on the block instead.
 
just use a stock start from a late model , i've gone to them on a few of my cars . big thing is terminal location . but there are relocater setups to help with that . i also put the groung cable direct to the start mount . helps them turn easier .
DSC00817.JPG
 
I have a DB mini starter on my Daytona clone, spins the 440 over with ease,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/132220644257

I have a Dakota starter on my 68 Charger. Spins the 440 over, but not as quick as the DB, but the 68 has more compression.

On both starters I ground the larger terminal down a bit for more clearance from the block. And even with a mini starter I still need to remove the header to get the starter out.
 
Just got my Robbmc starter, infinate clockability, light, so small its cute, ill let you know how it fits after the weekend...
16A0A1C0-4589-4A08-B6B7-3AB9484ACF19.jpeg
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BB08765F-B527-473F-B135-E73B76D8BD76.jpeg
 
Wow, lots of great info here. Looks like I'm not the only one that's been to 'starter hell' thanks guys
 
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