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Frame connector opinion

moobster said:
I have a set of the Car Tool ones for my car. I didn't install them because the cruises and car shows I go to, are full of those Mopar Nuts that pick your car apart if the hose clamps aren't right, or if you have the wrong colour distributor cap, or the wrong battery vent caps, or "there should only be overspray on the bell housing", "Mopar never used MSD wires". I'm so sick of those, numbers matching, cock suckers, that it ain't worth the bullshit you have to listen to. My car is a really solid 2dr post car, it shouldn't sag.
Click to expand...


I couldn't care less what people scrutinize about when I bring the 64 to the local meets & shows. The car is far from 'perfect' and frame connectors were a must for my convertible, especially after transplanting a lot more hp & torque than the old poly that came out could deliver. The car flexes much less now and my windshield is probably under less stress as a result.
 
Just to join in... My GTX has had 2X2 frame connectors since the early 70's and I totally agree with Glenwood about what others think about my car. :thumbsup:
Bob :moparsmiley:
 
I have a question. Would the US Car Tool connectors be good enough for a drag car with a roll bar, or would the old school square tubing be better?
 
Looking into this myself, going for mini tubs and spring relocation ( maybe even 6 point cage if money allows) at the same time. Was going to buy US Cartool Subframe connectors since I bought their relocation kit. But, Gary just installed a set and still recommended old school ‘cut through the floor pan’ tubing for more strength. He’s a old Mopar Drag veteran so I’m going with his choice. I also watch Chris Birdsongs videos and liked how he notched and goes through the crossmember and connects to the front frame rails. He has a YouTube channel “junkerup” and a thread on his Charger Daisy, here in the pro touring section if I remember correctly.
 
We did 2x2 square tube in mine. We cut open and slipped them inside the rear framerail. I did not want to cut the rear floorpan but we did attach with large rivits there.

It was amazing how much better the car felt. It was even better after I had a 6pt. rollcage installed.

The car launches straight and level and is a joy to drive both on the street and strip.
 
I really believe that I was the ORIGINAL USER of frame connectors for B Body Mopars.
In 1966 when I altered the wheel base on my B-Body but BEFORE I set the engine back 26" and installed the front tube axle I found the FRAME WEAKNESS pretty quick.
When we match raced we generally put down powdered Rosin out from the start line about 25 feet or so, then we did burnouts thru the powdered Rosin 2 or 3 times to get ready to race.
Then it evolved into actually pouring liquid Bleach down in front of the rear slicks and then doing a burnout thru the liquid bleach (years and years later that evolved into what we now have as the "water box".
Well, the first time I had my guys pour down a big puddle of liquid Bleach in front of each tire and then did a burnout thru that bleach a crappy, unexpected thing happened.....when the car came out of the bleach and the tires hooked like crazy it put the car right up of the rear bumper...a giant wheel stand. I let off the gas and the car came crashing down and BENT MY UNIBODY FRAME between the front and rear frame members. The car was actually bent down 3 or 4 inches in the middle..doors wouldn't open, etc,
I took the car to a frame shop and they put the car on their rack and using hydraulic jacks and chains straigtened the car.
I THEN TOOK A SECTION OF 2" CHANNEL IRON TO TIE THE FRONT AND REAR FRAME RAILS TOGETHER...never thought about them as what we now take for granted as "frame connectors".
All this in 1966 way before "frame connectors" being sold for Unibody Mopars...lol.
 
You could be right Mike. At least for B bodies! That was a sad story but a learning lesson at the same time. Glad to hear you figured a way to prevent that from happening again. Evidently the word got out and eventually, people got smarter! Wasn't 66 when the first funny cars evolved from the altered wheel base cars of the day? You are a part of history! Pretty cool! I do recall that some of the first funny cars were Dart bodies. I know that Don Garlits had one and also if I remember, Gene Snow as well and perhaps even the Ramchargers!
 
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multimopes said:
You could be right Mike. At least for B bodies! That was a sad story but a learning lesson at the same time. Glad to hear you figured a way to prevent that from happening again. Evidently the word got out and eventually, people got smarter! Wasn't 66 when the first funny cars evolved from the altered wheel base cars of the day? You are a part of history! Pretty cool! I do recall that some of the first funny cars were Dart bodies. I know that Don Garlits had one and also if I remember, Gene Snow as well and perhaps even the Ramchargers!
Click to expand...
The early Funny Cars started in 1966 and continued to be altered wheel base format for a couple years...they then morphed into a more radical format with tube chassis and all aluminum interior etc and over the years to what they are now.
Here is a pix of my "funny car" taken, I believe around 1968 or so.

20110624_71.JPG funnycarinterior.jpg 1967 start line.jpg bottom.jpg
 
For those without welding experience, where would you bring a car to have frame connectors welded in? If anyone is around the Tampa, FL area and could recommend someone, it would be greatly appreciated.
 
Bigfoots N Mopars said:
Looking into this myself, going for mini tubs and spring relocation ( maybe even 6 point cage if money allows) at the same time. Was going to buy US Cartool Subframe connectors since I bought their relocation kit. But, Gary just installed a set and still recommended old school ‘cut through the floor pan’ tubing for more strength. He’s a old Mopar Drag veteran so I’m going with his choice. I also watch Chris Birdsongs videos and liked how he notched and goes through the crossmember and connects to the front frame rails. He has a YouTube channel “junkerup” and a thread on his Charger Daisy, here in the pro touring section if I remember correctly.
Click to expand...

My opinion. my '65 Coronet had the the 2x3 frame connectors welded all through the floor. Extremely stiff. That car was amazingly consistant at the track. A six point roll bar will also be a great stiffness improvement.
 
The talk of roll cages and mini or full tubs along with a car guy show I just saw poses this question:
Does anyone make prefab aluminum panels for rear seat removal? In other words panels to put in when you remove the rear seat. They make them for other brands...
I know a lot of you all would fab them, just asking.
 
biomedtechguy said:
The talk of roll cages and mini or full tubs along with a car guy show I just saw poses this question:
Does anyone make prefab aluminum panels for rear seat removal? In other words panels to put in when you remove the rear seat. They make them for other brands...
I know a lot of you all would fab them, just asking.
Click to expand...

Very easy to make, even for someone who has minimal fab experience.
 
Not to be funny , but, back in 1963 there was a guy named Ron Garey who raced a Hudson Jet 4 door with a big Hudson Hornet motor with twin carbs. After 2 outings at the track, his drivers door would not shut. The old 54 Hudson had a uni body. The next week he came back with his doors latching just fine and told us that he pulled the body back together and welded tubing from the front subframe to the rear one. We also did it to our Willys Aero in 1964. Ron Garey went on to be famous for racing the Smothers Brothers / Chesron Oldsmobiles to many national event wins
 
Just to be a little accurate, having the connectors welded into the floor pan creates the highest level of stiffness. It takes advantage of the angles in the floor pan. 2X2 under the floor pan is good but will not provide the stiffness of 2X3 welded into the floor pan. The added stiffness really helps in a drag racing application. Much easier to figure out the suspension needs.
 
I bought the whole US Car Tool kit. Good pieces and fit well. It'll keep your car from twisting.
101_1836-jpg.jpg
 
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