64SF
Well-Known Member
Getting ready to remove the 4 speed from my 64 SF. Any tips or comments for easy (well sorta easy) removal would be appreciated. Top bolts access? Will the motor mounts allow a little tilt without coming apart? Thanks.
Tips for removing 4 speed?
- Thread starter 64SF
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StreetWedge65
Well-Known Member
Place a jack under tail housing and remove x-member. Lower trans till you can access the two upper bolts. Swivel 5/8" socket and a long extension. Depending on how ridge the exhaust is, you might need to disconnect so the engine will tilt down.
Hope this helps. BTW that trans is plenty heavy!!
Hope this helps. BTW that trans is plenty heavy!!
Bill Monk
Well-Known Member
Done it many times, remove shifter, linkage, clutch fork and driveshaft (they make a plastic plug to keep the lube off the garage floor, like this)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-USA-Tr...014743&hash=item4d7df443c8:g:K4wAAOSwq1NZhbTp
Support the transmission and remove the trans mount. Lower it a bit and remove the 4 bolts and slide her out. Most motor mounts will allow enough to be able to slide it out with no problem. You didn't say what engine you have so be careful if it's a small block with the distributor making contact with the firewall (might have to remove it or at least the cap).
If you don't have a transmission jack, a helper is highly recommended but I've pulled them by myself. That bad boy is heavy on your own though! While it's out, it's a good time to replace the pilot bushing
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-USA-Tr...014743&hash=item4d7df443c8:g:K4wAAOSwq1NZhbTp
Support the transmission and remove the trans mount. Lower it a bit and remove the 4 bolts and slide her out. Most motor mounts will allow enough to be able to slide it out with no problem. You didn't say what engine you have so be careful if it's a small block with the distributor making contact with the firewall (might have to remove it or at least the cap).
If you don't have a transmission jack, a helper is highly recommended but I've pulled them by myself. That bad boy is heavy on your own though! While it's out, it's a good time to replace the pilot bushing
Last edited:
rumblefish360
Well-Known Member
That trans is heavy-ish. It is also the position your probably in. On your back? Just get the car high up on the stands. If you have a transmission jack adapter/cradle, that would be good. Strapping the trans on the cradle is helpful in keeping it steady during removal and installation.
Also as mentioned, exhaust pipes can be a pain.
Also as mentioned, exhaust pipes can be a pain.
Charger Dana
Well-Known Member
***disconnect battery first****
Restored mint car or parts car?
Hoist or no hoist?
Do you have a Tranny jack? Two people also helps.
Not sure about your year, my 67 charger wasn’t bad with hoist, jack and two people.
1) Remove shifter/linkage (May need to remove console etc from top depending on set up) with car on floor.
2) 3” exhaust we loosened at the back and just dropped it down (dual) at the collectors, not removed.
3) remove drive shaft (don’t drop caps, wrap ends or tape) ideally use another yoke to plug rear of tranny (gear oil stinks!). worst case cap or bag it. Keep some “floor dry” handy.
4) Wiggle tranny jack in, attach before removing cross member. Should support the motor (another jack, or chain and board across the top in the engine bay, ratchet strap, several ways).
5) Remove inspection cover.
6) should be 4 bolts on tranny, all on mine accessible with universals and extensions. At this point it should be good to go. We had to pull, drop a little, pull some more and came out well.
65 Manual on here may help:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109
Restored mint car or parts car?
Hoist or no hoist?
Do you have a Tranny jack? Two people also helps.
Not sure about your year, my 67 charger wasn’t bad with hoist, jack and two people.
1) Remove shifter/linkage (May need to remove console etc from top depending on set up) with car on floor.
2) 3” exhaust we loosened at the back and just dropped it down (dual) at the collectors, not removed.
3) remove drive shaft (don’t drop caps, wrap ends or tape) ideally use another yoke to plug rear of tranny (gear oil stinks!). worst case cap or bag it. Keep some “floor dry” handy.
4) Wiggle tranny jack in, attach before removing cross member. Should support the motor (another jack, or chain and board across the top in the engine bay, ratchet strap, several ways).
5) Remove inspection cover.
6) should be 4 bolts on tranny, all on mine accessible with universals and extensions. At this point it should be good to go. We had to pull, drop a little, pull some more and came out well.
65 Manual on here may help:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109
Bill Monk
Well-Known Member
Agreed, if you have an H or X pipe, that can mean the whole exhaust has to come off
64SF
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the responses. They are exactly what I was looking for.
YY1
Well-Known Member
About the trans output "butt plug"...
Is there a Mopar specific one available?
I have one of the generic (chevy) ones and it doesn't fit real good.
Kind of wobbly and doesn't really seat. Not too confidence inspiring.
Is there a Mopar specific one available?
I have one of the generic (chevy) ones and it doesn't fit real good.
Kind of wobbly and doesn't really seat. Not too confidence inspiring.
One other thing, I'm a believer in supporting the rear of the engine to keep the extra stress off the mounts and brackets when the trans isn't there
Dibbons
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Just an anecdote: pulling the four-speed (working alone) from a '65 Abody, i did not need to plug the driveshaft hole (ball and trunnion driveshaft). However, when the tranny dropped out, the rear trans flange (where it connects to the ball and trunnion) game down hard on the concrete--correction--on top of my little finger, almost cutting it off. I know I successfully removed the 4-speed onto my chest, but something went amiss thereafter.
I should have gotten stitches, but at 2:00 or 3:00 AM on a cattle ranch, I applied pressure for a long time (and was cussing for a longer time). Eventually I got accustomed to seeing the jagged scar.
I should have gotten stitches, but at 2:00 or 3:00 AM on a cattle ranch, I applied pressure for a long time (and was cussing for a longer time). Eventually I got accustomed to seeing the jagged scar.
64SF
Well-Known Member
Ugh...will have a transmission jack and a helper.
Sonny Black
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pwDave
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Tip no. 1, don't let it fall on your chest. don't ask, I would just lie about it anyway. Dave.
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Body parts will cushion the transmission from being damaged when it falls out when you are by yourself and the car is on jackstands...
I was lucky I wasn't seriously injured. Transmission was fine, that was really important to me
Get a helper, use a lift and a transmission jack whenever possible!
I was lucky I wasn't seriously injured. Transmission was fine, that was really important to me
Get a helper, use a lift and a transmission jack whenever possible!
At roughly 120 lbs those things are heavy. I like to use a couple 4 inch dowels threaded in the upper transmission to bellhousing bolt holes to carry the weight while pulling it out of the clutch - or pushing it back in - to keep the weight and any twist off of the pressure plate hub. May not be quite as necessary if you are using a transmission jack.
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I use threaded rod. Really helps when installing. The last couple of inches are always the most difficult.
pwDave
Well-Known Member
Yes there is a very good one specific to our cars, you find them all over your shop!!!! a paint can top and some duct tape, its a press on fit but if you get the tranny against the floor it will come off, hence the duct tape. discovered this forty years ago and have done it since. the old spray bombs had a cap on them a few thousands smaller than the ones today, but they still work well. use one without the little hole in the cap, it'll all be fine. Dave.
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