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What torque converter to choose?

Orange71SE

Orange71SE

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what would you recommend for a street/strip torque converter? I’m building a 71 charger, car will have glass hood and bumpers and will mostly be stripped inside minus the dash. I have no idea how much these 71-74 b bodies weigh. Engine is a 440 +.30 with a 230/236 .488/.491 cam hydraulic flat tappet, e street heads. Almost at 10:1 compression. 2in diameter headers and an eddy victor intake. 3.55 rear gears and a 26in tire. So what would you recommend for a torque converter.
 
I reccomend calling a professional lol. Seriously you need to get this right if you want the engine to perform. Call Hughes or pro torque converter, have all your specs ready and let them decide what you need
 
Your probably looking at 2500 rpm worth of stall.

Pro Torque ( http://protorque.com/ ) can restall your converter. I had them do my wife’s as well as seriously upgrade it.
 
A full steel 71-72 B body with a 318-904-disc brake and A/C is in the 3500-3600 range. 400/440 adds about 250 lbs due to engine and trans weighing more.
 
Last edited:
Orange71SE said:
what would you recommend for a street/strip torque converter? I’m building a 71 charger, car will have glass hood and bumpers and will mostly be stripped inside minus the dash. I have no idea how much these 71-74 b bodies weigh
Click to expand...

As you build your cage, and items needed for the car to "go fast", you are basically putting weight back on that you just threw out.... Weight loss needs serious consideration, otherwise, you are close to stock shipping weight, which is 3400-3600#
If you wanna have fun with it at the track, you are going to need a much steeper rear gear, and have a pro make up your torque converter to spec, as others have mentioned. HTH, Lefty71
 
Lefty71 said:
As you build your cage, and items needed for the car to "go fast", you are basically putting weight back on that you just threw out.... Weight loss needs serious consideration, otherwise, you are close to stock shipping weight, which is 3400-3600#
If you wanna have fun with it at the track, you are going to need a much steeper rear gear, and have a pro make up your torque converter to spec, as others have mentioned. HTH, Lefty71
Click to expand...
Im well aware of my lack of rear gear but i figure i can compensate with a shorter tire ie running a 26in vs a 28
 
Call Kenny Ford at PTC. Quality unit at a good price.
Doug
 
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I just went through this decision with my 67 GTX 440 stroked to 505.
727 trans with 3.55 gears. I narrowed it down to Hughes and PTC. I called both and they suggested 3000 stall. I chose PTC based on feedback from this forum. It was $100.00 more in price but as many have said...."this is a very important choice for the build". And I felt comfortable with the quality of parts they described and the process.
BTW, both Hughes and PTC had excellent customer service and response time. Both will need details on your car.
I would suggest calling them both or whoever you decide to go with.
 
IMO, that is the best thing to do.
Call up several places and talk to them, ask questions, know what is going on.
 
Orange71SE said:
i can compensate with a shorter tire ie running a 26in vs a 28
Click to expand...
Agreed, to a degree. Don't lose too much footprint. Im guessing a longer footprint is just as important as a wider footprint?? I would love to see a comprehensive study on this area, instead of just "throw the biggest on you can get". Have you bought the headers?? I would like to hear some experts opinions here on whether the 2" headers are your best choice, given the rest of the combo. Sounds likes a fun car, good luck with the project. HTH, Lefty71
 
Lefty71 said:
Agreed, to a degree. Don't lose too much footprint. Im guessing a longer footprint is just as important as a wider footprint?? I would love to see a comprehensive study on this area, instead of just "throw the biggest on you can get". Have you bought the headers?? I would like to hear some experts opinions here on whether the 2" headers are your best choice, given the rest of the combo. Sounds likes a fun car, good luck with the project. HTH, Lefty71
Click to expand...
I’m well aware that these header are a little over kill too but I found these to be some of the best fitting headers out there besides tti headers. It was either these or some short tube headers and I’m not a fan of shortys.
 
To the OP, my street/strip torque converter with my 500" motor was a 10" Turbo Action "tight" version from mid 2000's. Excellent piece. Not not about their current offerings. My current converter is more drag race oriented, but is still streetable, 9 1/2" Dynamic. I would call both Turbo Action & Dynamic & see what they say. Don't go for a low cost version. The torque converter will MAKE the performance level. You may also find that your cam may be a little small for the head & header combo. Your aftermarket heads will want more lift.
 
I run a Luppo Dynamic 9.5 street/strip converter in my 63 and I love it. Great street manners and works fine at the track. Ron
 
Orange71SE said:
what would you recommend for a street/strip torque converter? I’m building a 71 charger, car will have glass hood and bumpers and will mostly be stripped inside minus the dash. I have no idea how much these 71-74 b bodies weigh. Engine is a 440 +.30 with a 230/236 .488/.491 cam hydraulic flat tappet, e street heads. Almost at 10:1 compression. 2in diameter headers and an eddy victor intake. 3.55 rear gears and a 26in tire. So what would you recommend for a torque converter.
Click to expand...
I use the stock converter for the 360 engines they are 1" smaller in diameter that the regular converters identified by the wider ring gear. I tried an aftermarket 3000 converter and it felt like slipping clutch unless I gave it to much throttle. (426 Hemi), the 360 converter has a higher stall especially with a larger displacement engine. I like them BUT just my opinion. but wait- there's more- the 360 is externally balanced with a weight welded to the converter- no problem, two small spot weld,s tap it sideways with a hammer and they drop off .
 
Best to call the manufacturers like Ultimate, Hughes, PTC and talk to them. There are more converter combinations/options today than there were just a few years ago.
 
X2 for PTC! Call them and explain what you have, and what you want. That way you'll get the right piece. Don't buy a over the counter convertor. My 2 cents
 
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