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Big heating-problems with 400ci on PLymouth Satellite

I did cut open both radiator tanks and inspected and cleand out everything. And then i welded everything back together and pressure tested it.
So i think the radiator can not be the problem. The highest difference i messured was about 20 degree (68F°) from in-and outlet.
 
Yeah so, maybe i check a different thermostat instead of the highflow..

But when really the hose would co-laps then is the problem i have super logical. That the temp. stays at idle at 180F° but i wont get out the heat when the car drives.
 
It must be somthing mechanical , its not like " i would like to have a few degree colder" its more like somthing fundamental is not working correct. So thats why i think the hose could be the problem. It really feels liek the system can not get any heat out.
 
I would say that is probably a normal temperature drop. When the rad on mine got plugged, the bottom hose was almost cold compared to the top one.

Is there anything changed or modified in the front end of the car that would restrict the flow of air while the car was cruising?
 
For an engine to generate that much heat and not dissipate with the coolant system that you've described, a bigger problem might be at play. The main heat generator in an engine, besides combustion, is friction. Have you, or an engine builder checked tolerances? An excessive heat problem could be a sign of a much bigger problem. Especially heat at 50 mph with an electric fan running. Good luck.
 
If the temp gun says 220 vs 250 as dash gauge reads, that's a big difference for one thing. Not sure why an electric fan was installed? What is the blade count on the engine fan? When sourcing out overheating problems have heard that adding an electric fan can impede cooling as it restricts air flow through the radiator. All else checking I'd take out the elect fan and run it with a (preferably) 7 blade in shroud for another test. Another note is how much modification has been done on motor? Radical timing changes due to mod's impacts engine temp's. My heat sources were quelled by adding 7 blade, (it had 4 blade) a shroud, adding a seal above the rad to reduce air flow miss-direction, reducing the anti-freeze ratio (though you say all h2o now) and adding water wetter. I also reckon you see no entry of coolant in your oil with the checks you've made. Sorry if I've mentioned items already checked or N/A...just tossing out some ideas. And yep, lower hose collapse has been good advice.
 
Lots of good advice. Is it possible to get some pictures? It might be helpful to see certain things like pulleys, fans and their placement in relation to everything.
 
if it will idle at 180 and gets hot at highway speed it seems to point to air flow.
Like posted above that electric fan set up could be blocking flow at speed.
If you have access to a fixed or clutch 7 blade fan and shroud I would sure give it a try with the electric one removed from the car.
Do you have a rubber seal between the top of the radiator support to seal to the hood bottom ?
Transmission cooler or AC condensor mounted in front of the radiator ?
 
mopar_chuck said:
I would say that is probably a normal temperature drop. When the rad on mine got plugged, the bottom hose was almost cold compared to the top one.

Is there anything changed or modified in the front end of the car that would restrict the flow of air while the car was cruising?
Click to expand...
NO there is everything stock so far wich could district the airflow to the radiator
 
1967coronet said:
if it will idle at 180 and gets hot at highway speed it seems to point to air flow.
Like posted above that electric fan set up could be blocking flow at speed.
If you have access to a fixed or clutch 7 blade fan and shroud I would sure give it a try with the electric one removed from the car.
Do you have a rubber seal between the top of the radiator support to seal to the hood bottom ?
Transmission cooler or AC condensor mounted in front of the radiator ?
Click to expand...
Yes there are rubber seals from the shroud to the radiator. There is aslo a rubberlip in front of the radiator to help direct airflow to the rad.
 
Ron H said:
If the temp gun says 220 vs 250 as dash gauge reads, that's a big difference for one thing. Not sure why an electric fan was installed? What is the blade count on the engine fan? When sourcing out overheating problems have heard that adding an electric fan can impede cooling as it restricts air flow through the radiator. All else checking I'd take out the elect fan and run it with a (preferably) 7 blade in shroud for another test. Another note is how much modification has been done on motor? Radical timing changes due to mod's impacts engine temp's. My heat sources were quelled by adding 7 blade, (it had 4 blade) a shroud, adding a seal above the rad to reduce air flow miss-direction, reducing the anti-freeze ratio (though you say all h2o now) and adding water wetter. I also reckon you see no entry of coolant in your oil with the checks you've made. Sorry if I've mentioned items already checked or N/A...just tossing out some ideas. And yep, lower hose collapse has been good advice.
Click to expand...
Yeah could be with the fan that it retrict airflow. In general i cant see changes if i run the car with the fan on or off. And the timing was checked. It looks ok, (8-10 at idle, 34-36 total).
The funny thing is that how the customer told me the car was working fine with the complete same setup, so thats why i think it can not be that a fact like the wrong fan could be the problem.
 
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OK, so i did this pipe now and was going for a ride. The temp was claiming around 230F° with heavy-throttle a uphill a mountain road. In cruisemode the temp. never came down. It stays on 230F°. After that i vent to the autobahn when i drove about 80mph. The temp. was going up to 250F° after autobahn i was cruising on a normal road back on about 50mph, the temp. was always staying at 250F° when i came back i let the engine idle in front of our shop around 10minutes with the fan on, but the temp was staying at 250F°. In running condition i was checking temps. with the temp. gun. I had around 250F° on the thermostat-housing, 245F° on the upper rubberhose, 160F° on the aluminum inlettank of the radiator, 230F° on the radiator-net in the middle. 150F° on the outlet tank of the rad, 170F° on the beginning of the stainless tube i made (means towards radiator diret after the rubber piece) around 220F° on the same stainless Pipe near to the waterpump connection near the engine.

Long story short: It looks like the absolute max of the temps are on the waterpump housing and the colder spots are the endtanks of the radiator. i have no idea what shoud be "normal" but this looks everything strange to me......
 
:realcrazy:
That looks like a pretty good opening on the shroud to be blocking air? I think I'd have a look at that pump, impeller came loose from shaft, damaged impeller, blocked water passage?? Maybe even attach a garden hose to the bottom hose and see how freely it flows through the motor... something is really goofed up somewhere.
 
Thanks for the pics. I don't see anything obvious, maybe someone else will. I noticed you have a Black Magic fan. I fought my new build for too long and it ended up being my aftermarket shroud and fans. I finally installed a Black Magic fan and it corrected my problem.
After reading your first post again it appears that your car has had this problem since you got it so we don't have a real history of the car except the previous owners statement which sounds a bit questionable at this time. I agree with 747mopar, "something is really goofed up somewhere".
Still lots of good advice here. Keep it coming FBBO and good luck to you Breth.
 
Where is the "electric" fan or did you remove it? As far as the shroud goes that just might be an issue worth a look. If it were me on the hunt for the culprit I'd try running the car with that removed and see if it makes a temp difference. That shroud could actually be creating so much turbulence it's not moving a lot of air to the motor. The fan blades should protrude out of the shroud around 1/2" or so. Are those blades angled or straight? They look unusual to me.
 
We tryed out everything. The pump is new and deliver water, i just disconnected the upper hose from the radiator and was starting the engine. A lot of water came out, so im shore the pump is proper working.
The only thing to check now is to remove the shroud and see if somthing is chainging on the autobahn, because maybe the restriced airflow form the covered shroud (wich makes a extremly effectiv fan work, or shoud) is defently a flow restricton when air pushes from the front of the radiator without using the fan.
Thats why all newer cars has flaps in the shroud wich openup when air pushes from the front and close with underpressure when the fan is aktive.
 
Yes guys thank you so much for all the good advise. Hopley i will find the reason..
 
With the radiator cap off, fill the radiator to the desired level. Start the car and watch for coolant flow when the thermostat opens. Once you see good flow and the thermostat is open, then put the cap on. (Do you do this?)

Other than this, I would try removing the electric fan and install a mechanical fan. Have the fan showing at least 1/4 out of the shroud (toward engine). Good luck!

You have some great fabrication skills with that lower pipe you made :thumbsup:
 
How about this:
After it gets hot from driving, try setting a good sized window box fan in front of the radiator.
You should be able to feel hot air blowing under the car and behind the front wheels on the sides.
See what the temp does, this would tell you if the fan is the problem.
FYI I have electric fans on my charger and it runs below 190 even on a hot day at highway speeds.
The fans stay off until I come to a stop, the temp rises and they are set to come on at 195 and 197.
On cooler days it will run right at 180.
 
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