Breth
Active Member
We will see tomorow what happend withou the shrouid and the electric fan on the radiator.
Big heating-problems with 400ci on PLymouth Satellite
- Thread starter Breth
- Start date
RJS
Well-Known Member
Years back 440 Source's water pump housings had restrictions in them, causing flow problems. Are you using a factory cast iron water pump housing or an aluminum housing that may be one of those early 440 Source pieces?
Ron
Ron
Breth
Active Member
Its a aluminum one
RJS
Well-Known Member
Well then you need to find the origin of that housing or swap it out.
Ron
Danny Boy
Secret of life is enjoying the passage of time JT
Interesting article regarding overheating issue resolved credit Dodge Charger forum
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60599.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60599.0.html
RJS
Well-Known Member
Supports what I said, your next move should be to inspect that water pump housing ASAP!!
Ron
RJS
Well-Known Member
Does anyone know where this OP went??? 4 pages of help and when I post about what may be solution POOF crickets...
Ron
Ron
BLK 68 R/T
Well-Known Member
Maybe the cooling issue was solved?
If that’s the case, OP, what was it?
If that’s the case, OP, what was it?
Breth
Active Member
Hey,
Sry i was in the usa for a the last week on sema. I didnt watchted the forum over there. Now im back in the shop, but we have also some different work to do.
So the mainthing about all those ideas is that when the car came in everything was working propper, so i cant belive that now the waterpumphousing shoud be a problem. Because it was working before. Must be something blocking the water channels in the block or somthing. We did order a pressure gun for flushing the coolingsystem with pressure. Maybe that helps. In the moment we have very bad weather in switzerland and pretty cold, so i can not go on a testdrive anyway.
Sry i was in the usa for a the last week on sema. I didnt watchted the forum over there. Now im back in the shop, but we have also some different work to do.
So the mainthing about all those ideas is that when the car came in everything was working propper, so i cant belive that now the waterpumphousing shoud be a problem. Because it was working before. Must be something blocking the water channels in the block or somthing. We did order a pressure gun for flushing the coolingsystem with pressure. Maybe that helps. In the moment we have very bad weather in switzerland and pretty cold, so i can not go on a testdrive anyway.
Breth
Active Member
So yesterday we were trying to flush the engineblock with a pressureized watergun. The flow and the ammount of water wich came out was looking ok for me.
I did connected the lower hose then back to the radiator and fill up the rad with water. the upper hose was still diconnected from the radiatior (thermostat was still out). Then i was running the engine to see if or how much water comes out when reving or just let it in idle. So the result was that the water came out extremley fast, so fast that the radiator had not enought water to feed the pump when reving, so the test was for nothing.
I was ordering now a pice of clear plastic tube in the hose diameter, wich i wanna connect in to the upper hose, to see what the water is doing in running condition. Maybe i see or dont see flow or i see air. I think would be a good idea to do that. After thinking and thinking the problem could be that air is trapped somewhere. If so i have to get a vacuum machine to fill the system correctly because i was allways filling the car with the front lifted AND built in the bleeder screw. But maybe i just dont have all air out.?.?
I did connected the lower hose then back to the radiator and fill up the rad with water. the upper hose was still diconnected from the radiatior (thermostat was still out). Then i was running the engine to see if or how much water comes out when reving or just let it in idle. So the result was that the water came out extremley fast, so fast that the radiator had not enought water to feed the pump when reving, so the test was for nothing.
I was ordering now a pice of clear plastic tube in the hose diameter, wich i wanna connect in to the upper hose, to see what the water is doing in running condition. Maybe i see or dont see flow or i see air. I think would be a good idea to do that. After thinking and thinking the problem could be that air is trapped somewhere. If so i have to get a vacuum machine to fill the system correctly because i was allways filling the car with the front lifted AND built in the bleeder screw. But maybe i just dont have all air out.?.?
Last edited:
Breth
Active Member
So we did vacuumise the coolingsystem and was filled it up with water. It was 100% air-free. But was still the same on the testrun. It also is wired that if you turn on the fan when hot absoulutley nothing changes on the temperature. When the cart came back in to the shop and i shut off the engine and it starts to spill over the overflow tube i could hear a "pulsing" snorkeling/cooking/spoiling (however do you wanna call it) noise from direction hose conector (thermostat-housing). Sounded like boiling water and was pulsing.
Breth
Active Member
Ok guys, some news!
I did put a transparent plastic tube between radiator and upper cooler-hose to see what the water is doing while running. After instaling the tube and refill a small amount of coolerfluid back in we started the eingine and it immediately starts building foam.....
So now it looks like the system isnt close. But it is 100%! The other thing is that it could be a broken headgasket, but we did check this aswell with the chemical test, no CO in the water....
So then we started to think about what could build the foam. Finnaly i reconiced a bended hose wich made a short cut in the waterpump. There where normally the heattubes are. Because the heater is disconnected we did a shortcut (or bridge) that we dont has to run the long heater hoses. SO maybe the bend was that tight that the water started getting foamy. After replacing the tube to a different one the foam was almoste gone. The second thing is that i can see that the plastik tube is not completley filled up when the engine is not running. That looks to me that there is still air in the system. So i change the external water bottle setup to stock, because im shore the bottle is sitting not high enought and thats why the level is to low while filling. No i filled all up and was opening the bleederscrew a few times after squeezing the upper hose. No i can not see any air anymore. Its clear that i can not do a testrun with that plasatictube (because of melting), but now i now how to do it. I will do the test tomorow.
So i think foamy water wich is bad for the heattransfer and maybe there was really air inside, would be a bad combo for a good coolingsystem.
But i dont wanna be to excited, first lets see what happend tomorow.
Regards, Sascha
I did put a transparent plastic tube between radiator and upper cooler-hose to see what the water is doing while running. After instaling the tube and refill a small amount of coolerfluid back in we started the eingine and it immediately starts building foam.....
So now it looks like the system isnt close. But it is 100%! The other thing is that it could be a broken headgasket, but we did check this aswell with the chemical test, no CO in the water....
So then we started to think about what could build the foam. Finnaly i reconiced a bended hose wich made a short cut in the waterpump. There where normally the heattubes are. Because the heater is disconnected we did a shortcut (or bridge) that we dont has to run the long heater hoses. SO maybe the bend was that tight that the water started getting foamy. After replacing the tube to a different one the foam was almoste gone. The second thing is that i can see that the plastik tube is not completley filled up when the engine is not running. That looks to me that there is still air in the system. So i change the external water bottle setup to stock, because im shore the bottle is sitting not high enought and thats why the level is to low while filling. No i filled all up and was opening the bleederscrew a few times after squeezing the upper hose. No i can not see any air anymore. Its clear that i can not do a testrun with that plasatictube (because of melting), but now i now how to do it. I will do the test tomorow.
So i think foamy water wich is bad for the heattransfer and maybe there was really air inside, would be a bad combo for a good coolingsystem.
But i dont wanna be to excited, first lets see what happend tomorow.
Regards, Sascha
Breth
Active Member
OK, news:
We did put a new reservoir in a higher location in to be absoultley shore there is no air inside. We filled up the water till the water came out of thel bleederscrew id weld in in the radiator. then let the enigne runnin till it sucks a bit water down, refilled the reservoir and put the cap back on. Then i vent on testdrive. The first 10 minutes looked pretty good, but when cruising back from the autobahn the needle was going up to 250 again, back in the workshop when i stoped the engine it was spilling water out..........
So now im absoulutely helpless... Everything seams to work proper, but the car still dosent work......... its so depressing
We did put a new reservoir in a higher location in to be absoultley shore there is no air inside. We filled up the water till the water came out of thel bleederscrew id weld in in the radiator. then let the enigne runnin till it sucks a bit water down, refilled the reservoir and put the cap back on. Then i vent on testdrive. The first 10 minutes looked pretty good, but when cruising back from the autobahn the needle was going up to 250 again, back in the workshop when i stoped the engine it was spilling water out..........
So now im absoulutely helpless... Everything seams to work proper, but the car still dosent work......... its so depressing
Breth
Active Member
I have to say that were tested without a thermostat, but i can not imagne that puting in the thermostat will do such a big difference....
RJS
Well-Known Member
If the water is moving too fast it would cause a problem. Put sat back in and test again.
Ron
Breth
Active Member
No difference with the thermostat
Breth
Active Member
I especially ordered a "normal one" instead of the highflow..
strokie
Well-Known Member
strokie
Well-Known Member
I solve my overheating problems with my 451 11.5cr with 22'' rad...
you need a shrould, a thermostatic fan, the fan must be close to rad.
Timing play a big role on water temp. (more advance =less heat). use the more advance you can at idle, max adv must be 32 to 34deg.
May be you must shortened your dist. slots. My engine use 16 deg. idle + vacuum adv. you need the highest octane.
With the piss cat gas today it's hard to raise advance check for ping and trail and error.
The more water in your rad = more cold in your engine. if you use your car only in summer like mine, I have 90% water and red line waterwetter and fill with antifreeze.
My waterpump is a high volume milodon and I use factory 195 degree stat.
Contrary to what many will tell you, there is nothing wrong with running the factory 195 degree stat. If 195 was too hot of a running temp, the factory wouldn't have used them. If your motor can stay cool with the delayed opening of the 195 degree unit, you should be fine.
I hope I help, to keep your engine cooler...
you need a shrould, a thermostatic fan, the fan must be close to rad.
Timing play a big role on water temp. (more advance =less heat). use the more advance you can at idle, max adv must be 32 to 34deg.
May be you must shortened your dist. slots. My engine use 16 deg. idle + vacuum adv. you need the highest octane.
With the piss cat gas today it's hard to raise advance check for ping and trail and error.
The more water in your rad = more cold in your engine. if you use your car only in summer like mine, I have 90% water and red line waterwetter and fill with antifreeze.
My waterpump is a high volume milodon and I use factory 195 degree stat.
Contrary to what many will tell you, there is nothing wrong with running the factory 195 degree stat. If 195 was too hot of a running temp, the factory wouldn't have used them. If your motor can stay cool with the delayed opening of the 195 degree unit, you should be fine.
I hope I help, to keep your engine cooler...
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