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Alt putting out 16 volts

Well, FSM usually states this ign wire as 14 gauge, which for most ign system is pretty much enough. Never have seen this running on 18 at least up to ballast. Maybe reduced at 16 on the splice to diff locations.

P.S.: ign system doesn't really sucks lot of load. Thats why the coil is there, to amplify the signal. And still is based on voltage not on amperage.
 
FYI, after buying my '69 Road Runner (and driving it from DTW to CHI) I installed a set of gauges over the winter. In spring I found the volt meter pegged at 16v. I replaced the old mechanical regulator with a Wells solid state regulator, but was told by someone here that the (Mopar Performance orange box) ECU does not like to be overcharged. They where correct. It failed not long after. I don't know about the MSD, but be prepared.
 
Yes, I burnt up an MSD box once. Had the alt hooked up wrong, and it was charging 30 amps for awhile. Thought the battery was just low on charge. Then I pulled over to check it, opened the hood and the red box was smoking. It didn't work anymore after that. .
 
Just found out that when I jumper a wire from batt to the blue field wire, it works fine. Steady 14.5 volts, no spikes or lights flickering. So when I shut the key off, the motor stopped, but the gauge lights stayed on! So he has the blue field wire also feeding the gauges! No wonder the regulator thinks the battery is low, and wants to over charge. So guess I need to look at the switch and gauge wiring now.
 
RUN ( Ign 1 )circuit feeds on some cars the Gauges... on some other is the ACC source. I.E.: 71/74 B bodies with Standard cluster get the Cluster sourced from RUN circuit, while Rallye clusters are sourced from ACC source. On both cases the Brake pilot light on cluster ( and Oil too on standard cluster ) are feed anyway from RUN circuit.

Now... are you meaning the dash ilumination ? thats just controlled by the light switch allong with dimmer wheel and can be powered even with key in off. Run circuit has nothing to do since it comes from batt

If the engine stalls with blue wire jumped to batt once key is off, something else is wrong there... it shouldn't!! engine should keep running!
 
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This has all been re wired with aftermarket gauges. He must have ran a wire to power the gauge lights coming off the DK BLUE wire that feeds the voltage regulator and the blue field wire going to alternator. This blue wire isnt running ignition. He has that on a different circuit.
 
Something to fix/restore.

What I would do? Would take the wiring to its original condition, then will decide what to do with the aftermarket gauges ( if you like to keep them ), and wire them correctly. No need to separate the RUN circuit from anywhere. The aftermarket gauges can be sourced from same circuit keeping the stock system like factory designed.

Aftermarket gauges can me sourced from ACC circuit if wished too.

Lighting for them must be sourced from the dimmer circuit ( orange wire ) BUT the fuse must be considered. If just couple of gauges, that's not a problem, but more maybe... couple of amps more as headroom. Depending on bulbs used for them.
 
Yes I considered that. It has the MSD IGNITION too. So I'm not sure I want to get rid of that. I'm pretty sure the ignition switch has worn or dirty contacts. I have a fix I'm going to try, putting in a relay for the regulator voltage. This will insure a steady 12 volts to that. Other guys on here have tried it and it worked well for them
 
Garys1969RR said:
Yes I considered that. It has the MSD IGNITION too. So I'm not sure I want to get rid of that. I'm pretty sure the ignition switch has worn or dirty contacts. I have a fix I'm going to try, putting in a relay for the regulator voltage. This will insure a steady 12 volts to that. Other guys on here have tried it and it worked well for them
Click to expand...


Sounds like a good idea. I have a similar issue which I believe a voltage drop to the regulator is being caused by the ign switch. The voltage has crept up to 15+ volts at higher rpm and my cluster has gone screwy even after replacing the limiter. My winter project will be a complete rewire of the engine bay harness.
 
Once everything is fixed with the propper mantenience you won't need a relay for the reg, trust me!

Is just about take care correctly about electricity like when you take care about a gas leak, brake fluid leak, worn brake pads! You don't shim the brake pads when rotors are worn! You replace rotors!... well electricity is the same! Is simply about don't underestimate it!
 
Garys1969RR said:
OK, sorry bout that. It is a 1970 Dodge Dart. Newer style solid state voltage regulator. 440 Auto. Pretty much all stock, except for the B Body drive train. AKA 440-727-8 3/4 rearend. And the ignition has been modified to use an MSD 6-AL, with timing retard box added. It has a Paxton blower also, hence the timing retard box. I'm considering going to a GM HEI module to simplify things.
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Dunno if you still have this same car or not? Best remedy here is ALWAYS revert to 100% OEM Dash & Engine wiring, NO electric fans, fuel pump, radios/amps ANYTHING the car didnt leave assy plant with in '69/'70. I doubt you'll see ONE diagree with this observation.. My uncle was the original Owner of M&H wiring. We still supply harnesses for Year One & Classic Ind. All of the "Bypassed Ammeters" GM "HEI" ign. , MSD crap ECUs have only caused more problems down the 1 year or so of a short road.
Run POINTS and a 70 amp alternator and CHANGE NOTHING. Rest is all routine maintenance. Let us know!
 
WM23M9 said:
Dunno if you still have this same car or not? Best remedy here is ALWAYS revert to 100% OEM Dash & Engine wiring, NO electric fans, fuel pump, radios/amps ANYTHING the car didnt leave assy plant with in '69/'70. I doubt you'll see ONE diagree with this observation.. My uncle was the original Owner of M&H wiring. We still supply harnesses for Year One & Classic Ind. All of the "Bypassed Ammeters" GM "HEI" ign. , MSD crap ECUs have only caused more problems down the 1 year or so of a short road.
Run POINTS and a 70 amp alternator and CHANGE NOTHING. Rest is all routine maintenance. Let us know!
Click to expand...

OUTSTANDING OBSERVATIONS......there was an old Confucius saying: "Fancy gizmos don't work and if they do work, they don't work for long and will stop working at the most inopportune time and cost the most dollars to fix"...... just something to think about.....
BOB RENTON
 
Nacho-RT74 said:
Once everything is fixed with the propper mantenience you won't need a relay for the reg, trust me!

Is just about take care correctly about electricity like when you take care about a gas leak, brake fluid leak, worn brake pads! You don't shim the brake pads when rotors are worn! You replace rotors!... well electricity is the same! Is simply about don't underestimate it!
Click to expand...

Electrical repairs and electrical systems are ABSOLUTELY NOTHING like hydraulic repairs and an under estimate can be fatal. Once again, a general, unrelated comment ...... ahh....it would be nice, if life were was so simplistic and easy to explain ....??
BOB RENTON
 
RJRENTON said:
Electrical repairs and electrical systems are ABSOLUTELY NOTHING like hydraulic repairs and an under estimate can be fatal. Once again, a general, unrelated comment ...... ahh....it would be nice, if life were was so simplistic and easy to explain ....??
BOB RENTON
Click to expand...
OH yes indeed! Sometimes more yes than no, the simplest fix is the hardest to find. "Overdiagnosing 101"
 
Now, I have another damn electrical problem.. Repro battery + Cable, did fine for a few days, then for no reason Tach, fuel guage, stopped working, (clock decided to work lol) Voltage drop between small Batt+ & starter switch 0.06V, alternator is all over the place, Voltage regulator test 9.06 Ohms?! I guess "At Least, it's NOT a carburetor problem this time".. Jebus, it never ends.. Battery might be junk, iys an "Ever Start" 2 yrs old, used to hold 12.6 Volts, now won't seem to hold morr than 12.26 Volts.. Think battery may have a dead cell or be flooded?
These Batt cables I hear are a problem. Looks good though.
 
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