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64 b body wagon rear hatch window weak motor electrical issue

Evan Frucht

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I have a 1964 Plymouth fury station wagon. The car has an electric rear window. It can be controlled by a knob on the dash or turning of the key in rear door. Basically it doesn't work right. Main issues are.
- Turning the key will make it go down, but not up.
- Turning dash knob will make it go up, but not down.
- The dash knob only works when I rev the car to a higher RPM than idle. The window also goes faster as the RPM's rise.
Is this a wiring issue or is the motor shot?
 
Hi My 64 Belvedere wagon rear window works better when the battery charger is connected. The RPM make a difference also. I would try the up and down switch many times because the contacts might be corroded -mine were and after working the switches many times they started to work. Both of my switches work good now. The slow operation might be a wire with some corrosion in it also. I was thinking of trying a new heavier wire to the back and see if that would make a difference.
 
With the car being old, there is most likely a huge voltage drop between the switch, motor, fuse block etc. Time for some snip snip and replacement of electrical system.
 
I have a 1964 Plymouth fury station wagon. The car has an electric rear window. It can be controlled by a knob on the dash or turning of the key in rear door. Basically it doesn't work right. Main issues are.
- Turning the key will make it go down, but not up.
- Turning dash knob will make it go up, but not down.
- The dash knob only works when I rev the car to a higher RPM than idle. The window also goes faster as the RPM's rise.
Is this a wiring issue or is the motor shot?

How does it work with the switch on top of the rear driver side wheelhouse and the tailgate key switch ? If by chance you need anything,I have it all,wiring harness,motor etc.
 
With the car being old, there is most likely a huge voltage drop between the switch, motor, fuse block etc. Time for some snip snip and replacement of electrical system.
How can I fix it. What parts went bad do you think?
 
How does it work with the switch on top of the rear driver side wheelhouse and the tailgate key switch ? If by chance you need anything,I have it all,wiring harness,motor etc.
What do you mean. There's another switch to control it other than dash and rear key slot?
 
What do you mean. There's another switch to control it other than dash and rear key slot?

Picture 141.jpg
Inside top left rear wheel house.
 
Last edited:
Run 10 guage wire from the bottom of the tailgate to the body. Do it on both sides of the gate.
You are probably experiencing a weak ground. The only thing connecting the gate to the body is the hinges. At 50 plus years, they will be extremely dirty.
 
Run 10 guage wire from the bottom of the tailgate to the body. Do it on both sides of the gate.
You are probably experiencing a weak ground. The only thing connecting the gate to the body is the hinges. At 50 plus years, they will be extremely dirty.
OK thanks I'll try that
 
Bad/lack of grounds, worn switches, terminals with crappy connections causing high resistance and lack of voltage, motors that took a ton of power to work back then and now more due to age, etc etc. Its a big stack up of issues that cannot be band-aided in the long run. Start over with fresh stuff, add a lot of grounds.
 
Don't forget to check and lubricate any pivot arms in the assembly, make the window move easily as possible.
 
What is the best lube for the upper window guides -seals. My back window slows down when it gets up about half way. Like the window binds in the guides -seals.
 
Guides, rollers, gears etc can use white lithium. You can get it in a spray which helps it to work into the needed areas. Rubber stuff can use silicone.
 
"My back window slows when it gets up about halfway"

You must be extremely careful to get the window 100% down before you try to open the gate. If not, you can clip the corner of the frame and chip or break the glass.

For the problem going up, make sure you have good ground, then put slight pressure inward on the gate to see if the latches may have worn or slipped, and not be aligning when closed.
 
The most "fun" you can have with the tailgate window is getting down far enough to open the gate, when the electric motor dies.
 
And if you are playing with the regulator while the glass is down, beware that its spring loaded to assist the going back up. May be wrong since its a Mopar but I still have the scars on the back of my knuckles from popping the motor out of a Ford product from that era. Was holding on to the arms, partially down position, when I got the motor out it shot up with my hand between the door shell and the reg. "Just a flesh wound" to quote Monty Python. Metal stampings are VERY sharp.
 
The tail gate shuts and latches good and seems in alainment. All lift arms and pivots are lubes well. I will keep using a lube on the glass channels. Thank all for the help. I think I will try an extra ground wire also.
 
The tail gate shuts and latches good and seems in alainment. All lift arms and pivots are lubes well. I will keep using a lube on the glass channels. Thank all for the help. I think I will try an extra ground wire also.

If the need arises,I have a complete body wiring harness to the tailgate,tailgate wiring harness to the motor,including a motor and the switch on the body tailgate opening that disables the motor when tailgate is open.
 
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