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Leak proof valve cover gaskets?

beanhead said:
I got some from o'reillys, told them it was for a '71 imperial and they are the rubber-ish kind...work great not too expensive, I still have a weepy spot but it's the lame MP black wrinkle covers..superperformance are great too, anything exhaust I use remflex
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Same gasket from the same place with the same valve cover. The only thing that stopped my leak (lower rear corner of the passenger side) was RTV on both sides of the gasket.
 
fwi said:
I know there is no such thing, but what would be the closest? I had to remove one side and now it leaks bad, they look like those cheap cork jobs.....also, I probably tightened too much or maybe not enough.
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There's one thing, in all my years of working on cars, of which I am certain. If you have to glue a gasket to ensure that it does what it was intended to do, you bought $hit.
 
Yatzee said:
There's one thing, in all my years of working on cars, of which I am certain. If you have to glue a gasket to ensure that it does what it was intended to do, you bought $hit.
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So what you're saying is every 50yr old stamped steel valve cover should be without imperfection, and seal just as it did when new ? You can straighten the lip of that valve cover and until your straight edge fits perfect and some of those ******* still will leak. So we'll just agree to disagree on this one .....
 
not so famous bob said:
My 505' w/ tti headers melted the moroso gaskets, had to go back to fiber for the heat. # 2 TUBE IS ALMOST UP against the cover on raised port heads.
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We must have the same headers! I originally had cork, and the heat made them crumble. Morosos work great......for about 20 hours, then - your right - they turn to mush (melt) as an effect of the heat.

Please tell me exactly what "fiber" gasket you are using, and any special instructions. I am on my 4th moroso on the passenger side, and it just started to leak. . Thank you!!!
 
CA295764-06E1-4EB2-8B50-237AE3169050.jpeg
Felpro. Put some sealer on and placed gasket on cover and let it set in the sun one hour.
Sealed on first attempt.
 
Yatzee said:
There's one thing, in all my years of working on cars, of which I am certain. If you have to glue a gasket to ensure that it does what it was intended to do, you bought $hit.
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I don't use gasket sealer on everything, but I do use it on every valve cover.
 
Done mostly to keep it from moving when positioning in a tight spot.
 
Hags65 said:
We must have the same headers! I originally had cork, and the heat made them crumble. Morosos work great......for about 20 hours, then - your right - they turn to mush (melt) as an effect of the heat.

Please tell me exactly what "fiber" gasket you are using, and any special instructions. I am on my 4th moroso on the passenger side, and it just started to leak. . Thank you!!!
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hughs engines has some fiber ones especially made for hi heat. I prepared the covers ,and black RTV`d them to the valve covers. have tightened them down 3 times, seem to shrink a little w/ heat, I have home made heat gaurds between my covers and my 1 and 2 header tubes also, so far so good.
There are header / manifold gaskets that have a guards on them, but I didn`t want to spend $36 for exhaust gaskets---------
 
I have to believe there's an issue other than the gasket if you can't get them to seal unless the gasket is pure junk. I've got Felpro cork gaskets on mine with no sealants, zero issues and they've been on and off multiple times however I do have cast aluminum covers which really help. The factory stamped covers easily get distorted from over torquing them leaving you having to hammer them back out. I'd recommend putting something on them to spread the torqued surface out and see if that helps, pretty sure you can buy them easily enough.
 
747mopar said:
I have to believe there's an issue other than the gasket if you can't get them to seal unless the gasket is pure junk. I've got Felpro cork gaskets on mine with no sealants, zero issues and they've been on and off multiple times however I do have cast aluminum covers which really help. The factory stamped covers easily get distorted from over torquing them leaving you having to hammer them back out. I'd recommend putting something on them to spread the torqued surface out and see if that helps, pretty sure you can buy them easily enough.
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running big tube TTI headers in a smaller engine bay , corks wont work for me, been that route. Just replaced a cork oil pan gasket too.
 
Gotcha, you have headers that come up beside the gasket I assume?
 
Something to think about... Most of our muscle cars have been modified and abused for at least part of their lives. The stamped steel valve covers bend easily around the bolt holes if overtightened. Before installing the valve covers, use a ball peen hammer to straighten out the bottom side of the surface.

I've had leaking problems for years (On my valve covers...not a personal problem). A buddy suggested using weather strip glue (bought at NAPA) on the valve cover only would fix this problem. Glue it, then install the gasket by pulling the tangs into the tang holes. (cork is what worked for me). Put some weight on top and keep the gasket on a flat surface. Install... No more leaks.
 
Hags65 said:
We must have the same headers! I originally had cork, and the heat made them crumble. Morosos work great......for about 20 hours, then - your right - they turn to mush (melt) as an effect of the heat.

Please tell me exactly what "fiber" gasket you are using, and any special instructions. I am on my 4th moroso on the passenger side, and it just started to leak. . Thank you!!!
Click to expand...

I bit the bullet and bought the fiber ones from hughs engines, they haven`t burnt w/ my home made heat gaurds between the no. 1-2 header tubes. The fiber gaskets are harder than I like, an broke upon removal.
Andy F. said in a post that the mopar perf. valve covers were actually too wide for about any head, I think he is right !!
I posted this in another post, they make header gaskets w/ a guard built on to them, may be worth a try too!
 
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