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Fuse block terminal supplier?

beanhead

Straining The Limits Of Machine And Man
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I want to replace the fuse clips and terminals in my 68 block. The plastic blocks are on ebay but mine is ok, I'm just looking to change out some rusty clips...anyone know who sells them? Some of them have a male spade(some have multiple spades stacked) on the backside of the block and some are just the clip crimped right onto the wire..Thanks
 
They are called Packard 56 terminals. Several manufacturers used them.
Any automotive electrical supply house will have them or you can order them on Amazon or eBay.
 
I’m not doing a perfect era-correct resto on mine, so my plan is to modernize the fuse box, making fuzes easier to manage and adding more circuits for goodies (like audio).

If you’re not keeping yours “accurate”, maybe consider the same?
 
Are you refurbishing your fuse block or your firewall bulkhead terminal block?

The Packard 56 terminals are for the firewall bulkhead.
 
Are you refurbishing your fuse block or your firewall bulkhead terminal block?

The Packard 56 terminals are for the firewall bulkhead.
Fuse block. I picked up a kit a few years ago that had the 56s for the bulkhead, but it didn't have fuse clips and for the life of me I can't remember where I got those..
 
How soon do you need them? I know I have some whack up harnesses I can snag some from....
 
I’m not doing a perfect era-correct resto on mine, so my plan is to modernize the fuse box, making fuzes easier to manage and adding more circuits for goodies (like audio).

If you’re not keeping yours “accurate”, maybe consider the same?
Thought about that, but the stock setup is plenty for my car and I'm trying to make it as painless as possible..but it's an option for sure if I can't locate the oem-type..
 
How soon do you need them? I know I have some whack up harnesses I can snag some from....
I'm in no hurry, things are working as is but I'm sure I'm losing a little voltage through the rust lol
 
How many and which ones do you need?
I want to replace all of 'em...
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Some of those things are pretty funky looking, I hope they just snap through the block? It kinda looks like the two upper ledt ones are all one piece..
 
If they are not pitted...They appear to have surface rust but look reusable....You can just clean them up....Yes they come out as one unit for each row.....They are easy to remove...

The ideal way is to remove the whole harness.....Pop out the terminals and glass bead them....Then I coat them with Dielectric grease....
 
If they are not pitted...They appear to have surface rust but look reusable....You can just clean them up....Yes they come out as one unit for each row.....They are easy to remove...

The ideal way is to remove the whole harness.....Pop out the terminals and glass bead them....Then I coat them with Dielectric grease....
I was wondering this too. If I can just pop them out of the block and clean them up, I shall..That may be the ticket! I don't have a glass beader but I imagine some fine sandpaper and contact cleaner would be ok.
 
The stacked terminals are just that, using that type terminal on each wire. (I call 'em piggy-backed.) Just separate each one, to clean. The block fuse terminals are held in, by small tabs on each side. Some parts are steel. Cleaned mine with a brass brush.

Once all the dirt is off everything, harness loosened, terminals loose, I soaked all mine in lemon juice. Citric acid...cleans corrosion off, and brightens them.
 
A little follow-up. Yanked a pretty decent complete block out of a 70-whatever RV. I'll be using some of the terminals from that, that have the common buss piece riveted to them. There is one with 3 fuse clips and one with 2, just like my original. For the individual fuse clips, AND the piggy-back blade terminals I found them here:
http://www.delmarwire.com/
Fuse clip part #s 18-90 and 18-91, stacking blade terminals #18-16. They're down in Ontario CA, I dealt with the owner directly...
 
I'm in no hurry, things are working as is but I'm sure I'm losing a little voltage through the rust lol
That corrosion can be safety cleaned away without damaging surrounding plastic. Process called nickel blasting, and it will coat the metal blades with corrosion resistance nickel. Should tell you expensive process to try to do yourself, the nickel is very expensive. If your interested pm me. I will clean it up for you no charge.
 
I soak my terminals in acid and the corrosion comes off pretty quick and the spray with some protectant or grease on a q-tip. If you are careful this can even be done on the car. Disconnect the battery and have a catch pan under the glove box to catch overflow from whatever you use to soak it in. Rinse well. I have done bulkheads and I soak all the old terminals and plugs as I assemble the car. I will also use Tarnex on anything brass or copper, wires or parts. Test on an old part and watch it. I was amazed.
 
That corrosion can be safety cleaned away without damaging surrounding plastic. Process called nickel blasting, and it will coat the metal blades with corrosion resistance nickel. Should tell you expensive process to try to do yourself, the nickel is very expensive. If your interested pm me. I will clean it up for you no charge.

I soak my terminals in acid and the corrosion comes off pretty quick and the spray with some protectant or grease on a q-tip. If you are careful this can even be done on the car. Disconnect the battery and have a catch pan under the glove box to catch overflow from whatever you use to soak it in. Rinse well. I have done bulkheads and I soak all the old terminals and plugs as I assemble the car. I will also use Tarnex on anything brass or copper, wires or parts. Test on an old part and watch it. I was amazed.
Thanks guys. Had I not dug up some good original and new parts, I would be going the route of cleaning my existing pieces. I still may once I get them out, for spares (or to sell for hundreds of dollars on ebay):lol:
 
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